Shopsmith, Are there shortcomings?

[ryanbp01]

My first table saw had a tilting arbor. I much prefer tilting the table with the rip fence locked to prevent slide-offs? Why? Because for me the tilting table is much, much easier to use. It's easier for me to set my bevel gauge to the angle that is needed by tilting the table to match the angle. Also, I found it easier to see if the depth was sufficient for the stock to cut in 1 pass. If I need to bevel a long edge like door and window trim I simply use my Jointer for that operation. However, like Chris, I use the table saw mainly for ripping or cutting 4'x8" sheets of material.

I do like the suggestion of Nick performing cuts using the table tilted at the appropriate angle. I would like to also add that I would like to see how to use the extension tables in such a setup. Maybe I could divest myself of some tools and invest in more Shopsmith add-ons.

BPR

[Bruce]

I much prefer tilting the table with the rip fence locked to prevent slide-offs?

Ryan, I hope you're not making through cuts with the miter gauge and the rip fence. That is a huge no-no. The piece between the blade and the rip fence could bind and be thrown at you.

[cincinnati]

I often read on other forums about the down fall of the tilting table. Almost always people will say "try to cut a miter on the end of a 8 foot board" On a Shopsmith. My answer is how many people cut a miter on the end of an 8 foot board with any table saw. You would likely use a power miter saw.

Why is it we cut miters on a Bandsaw with a tilting table (all makes) but somehow a table saw we tilt a blade???? It is all what people is use to.

George Reid, a master woodworker from Kettering Ohio, used an old table saw with a tilting table. maybe Nick knew him. Kettering is right next door to Shopsmith. (or close to it)

[kalynzoo]

I seldom use a piece of wood larger than 3 ft. That said, I truly prefer the tilting table of my SS. My previous home table saw (craftsman) had a tilting blade. When tilting the blade I would always lose the square on my cut. Maybe it was just me. But I don't think so. With the SS tilting table, I can square my blade and then set my cut by tilting the table. This really works well for me. Although the SS is a multi-tool, it does not replace every tool in my shop. If I am quarterting a plywood sheet, I will still set up a cutting jig and use a skill saw. (ok it's not made my skill, but you know what I mean). What my SS does, it does really well. But it does not do everything.

[charlese]

Wow! Very interesting thread, Dusty! Congrats on this subject matter!

Is the tilting table dangerous? In my estimation, it is no more dangerous than a flat table. It is only the technique used by woodworkers that is dangerous. Shopsmith has provided us with books, explaining proper techniques for sawing with a tilted table, but since the feeling (foot position, hand angles, a person's sence of balance) is different, surprises may occur that scare and confound the woodworker.

I believe that sawing with a tilted table may become more dangerous than a flat one, because of sawyers inexperiance and lack of proper safety techniques. Yes, it would be a wonderful Sawdust Session!
The last time I used the saw with a tilted table was to saw the bevels on the sides, front and rear of my Corner China Cabinet. These bevel cuts were on boards about 3 to 4 ft. long. As I remember the bevel angles were 22.5 degrees and 45 deg.

Now for the discussion of bevel vs. miter: As far as I'm concerned, when the sides of the China Cabinet were being sawn they were beveled. When the were assembled they became miters.

For example: If I had four boards, all 6" wide and crosscut the all ends of these boards at a bevel of 45 deg. - I would have cut 8ea. 45 deg. bevels. If I then assemble these boards end to end - I would have the sides of a 6" high box with mitered corners.

Today, I used the table at a 2 degree slant to sharpen planer blades that are supposedly un-sharpenable. More on that in a new thread under "Woodworking Tool Review".

[qtndas01]

If you look hard enough you can always find fault with any peice of machinery. I have used the SS for bevel tinting the table down toward the right. I also have another table saw and hardly ever use it tilting the blade since I purchased the SS and the mitre saw. For moldings I use the mitre saw. I use a jig to cut bevels for raised panel doors on the SS. When cutting bevels on narrow stock safety is something to watch and be sure to use push sticks.

[paul heller]

Yeah, Dusty, you hit one out of the park with this topic!

I don't tilt my table often, and sometimes when I do things are easy and sometimes they are not. I guess it depends on the cut.

I do know that if it weren't for the excellent miter gauge with the pistol grip hold down mechanism, it would not be easy (or safe) at all. But that contraption usually makes it foolproof.

I think a 45 degree edge on a large board would be a problem. Can't use a miter saw. Can't use a radial arm saw (I don't have one anyhow). Might be able to use the shopsmith if you rest the board against the fence (extension tables come in handy!), as long as the board is not too wide and as long as the shape is such that there is no danger of kickback. Perhaps there is a router bit out there that would do it?

But, I personally have NEVER had to cut such a board.

Paul

[sandyj]

When I started out woodworking as a hobbiest in 2000, I had no idea of the Shopsmith system. However I did get an Australian (close to home) table-saw system and that did not have a tilting blade nor table.
Instead they use an optional extra - "Bevel Ripping Guide".
http://www.triton.com.au/accessories.ph ... cessory_17
Now I am not advocating that SS should employ this device but mention it here as another way of doing same. For 45 degree bevels I prefer to use the router table with appropriate bit.

Regards
Sandy

[brown_hawk]

Yeah, Dusty, you hit one out of the park with this topic!

I don't tilt my table often, and sometimes when I do things are easy and sometimes they are not. I guess it depends on the cut.

I do know that if it weren't for the excellent miter gauge with the pistol grip hold down mechanism, it would not be easy (or safe) at all. But that contraption usually makes it foolproof.

I think a 45 degree edge on a large board would be a problem. Can't use a miter saw. Can't use a radial arm saw (I don't have one anyhow). Might be able to use the shopsmith if you rest the board against the fence (extension tables come in handy!), as long as the board is not too wide and as long as the shape is such that there is no danger of kickback. Perhaps there is a router bit out there that would do it?

But, I personally have NEVER had to cut such a board.

Paul

I have done the table slant cut on the SS, and it was a royal pain to set up and do. It was for the center box of a coffee Table I made. It worked, but it was so much fun:D that I nearly swore off the SS. Since the table top was an oval, I rounded the back of the box, and the doors, which also necessitated slanted rip cuts. 45 at the back end of the sides. Doweling the back and doors was fun too.

I'm looking at the necessity again, and I looked up 45 degree bevel router bits. I actually settled on a locking 45 bevel to give a little more strength to the joint when I put the cabinet together. They will be above the countertop bar, and I don't want the end grain to show, so I settled for the router bit. Of course, that may change after I build the first one.

Hawk

PS A Skil Saw and a good guide work well too.

[dps1890]

SANDY THAT WAS A GOOD ACCESSORY I FEEL THAT I COULD BUILD ONE SOMETHING LIKE THAT, THEY GIVE YOU THE SPECKS . GOOD THINGS COME FROM DOWN UNDER EVEN RACECAR DRIVERS, HAVE A GOOD DAY.