Caster Upgrade Problem
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Caster Upgrade Problem
I have recently completed the new caster upgrade on my MK5. My garage floor is more like a wash board than a smooth, level surface. While attempting to move my machine around in a 2 car garage I frequently get the machine "hung up" on the legs. I believe that I probably drilled the holes for mounting the brackets slightly higher on the leg than I should have, which would have reduced the distance between the bottom of the leg and the floor. I am not sure how I made the error. I certainly could use some guidance in how to resolve the issue. Since I have either misplaced or trashed the template sent with the upgrade I am in somewhat of a quandry.
My question now is should I re-drill the mounting holes or replace the casters with a 4 inch model. Since I do not know the proper distance between the leg and the floor when the casters are in their extended position, I am unsure if the caster replacement is a viable option or what is the proper distance from the bottom of the leg to the center point of the 2 mounting holes on the leg itself.
Any advice on would certainly be appreciated.
My question now is should I re-drill the mounting holes or replace the casters with a 4 inch model. Since I do not know the proper distance between the leg and the floor when the casters are in their extended position, I am unsure if the caster replacement is a viable option or what is the proper distance from the bottom of the leg to the center point of the 2 mounting holes on the leg itself.
Any advice on would certainly be appreciated.
George
Ormond Beach FL SS 520, Jointer, Band Saw, Miter Saw, Radial Arm Saw, OPR, Router Table, 5 Routers, Incra 5000, Table top Drill Press, Thickness Planer
Ormond Beach FL SS 520, Jointer, Band Saw, Miter Saw, Radial Arm Saw, OPR, Router Table, 5 Routers, Incra 5000, Table top Drill Press, Thickness Planer
I found that had to redrill the holes on my Mark V legs about 5/16" lower than the factory template. My latest drilled holes are 1 1/4" higher than the original holes. I determined the amount to lower the holes by setting the caster lift rod to what would be its lowest position that allows the legs to set on the floor. Then using a wooden wedge I cut (1/8" to 1/2" X 6"), I slid the wedge under the caster wheel until the caster wheel movement was restricted (not able to move the caster) and marked the wedge at the center of the wheel. I took this measurement 3/8" and substracted 1/16" from it to allow the caster to be free from the floor giving me the 5/16" from the first set of holes I drilled. I did each caster to get this measurement to insure all the casters would be at the same height. I use grey leg color paint to touch up all the holes to prevent future rust before I installed each caster assembly.
I believe Shopsmith gives 1/4" leg clearence for the first step and 1/2" leg clearence for the second step.
I believe Shopsmith gives 1/4" leg clearence for the first step and 1/2" leg clearence for the second step.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
- fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
I had the same issue with my legs dragging at times on high spots on my garage floor. I also drilled the holes lower but the problem still existed. What it turned out to be was my leg attachment bolts on one side of one of the legs were loose which caused the entire leg to flex out and cause the dragging 
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
You might be able to get away with adding a washer or two on the stem of the caster.georgek1 wrote:I have recently completed the new caster upgrade on my MK5. My garage floor is more like a wash board than a smooth, level surface. While attempting to move my machine around in a 2 car garage I frequently get the machine "hung up" on the legs. I believe that I probably drilled the holes for mounting the brackets slightly higher on the leg than I should have, which would have reduced the distance between the bottom of the leg and the floor. I am not sure how I made the error. I certainly could use some guidance in how to resolve the issue. Since I have either misplaced or trashed the template sent with the upgrade I am in somewhat of a quandry.
My question now is should I re-drill the mounting holes or replace the casters with a 4 inch model. Since I do not know the proper distance between the leg and the floor when the casters are in their extended position, I am unsure if the caster replacement is a viable option or what is the proper distance from the bottom of the leg to the center point of the 2 mounting holes on the leg itself.
Any advice on would certainly be appreciated.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
There have been at least two versions of the template (provided by Shopsmith). The template that I received positioned the wheels properly; I have good clearance. I used the paper template but only to create a wooden version that I used on the machines.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
see post #12 ofthis threaddusty wrote:There have been at least two versions of the template (provided by Shopsmith). The template that I received positioned the wheels properly]wooden version[/color] that I used on the machines.
Sam in Northfield, MN
A day without beer......could have been better

Mark V 500 - S/N 100990, Mark V 510 - S/N missing, SS Band Saw, SS 6" Belt Sander, SS 4" Jointer, SS Scroll Saw, SS DC3300
A day without beer......could have been better
Mark V 500 - S/N 100990, Mark V 510 - S/N missing, SS Band Saw, SS 6" Belt Sander, SS 4" Jointer, SS Scroll Saw, SS DC3300
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Thank you for that link. It gives more meaning to my comments.saminmn wrote:see post #12 ofthis thread
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Hi,
In addition to a couple (I think 3) versions of the template there was also for a time a problem that the templates were being done on a copy machine and were not at 1:1. I had that problem. I didn't know it at the time but later found out this was at least one of the issues.
How ever you do it, I feel the steps should leave you with the machine flat on the ground then step up 1/4" followed by a step to 1/2". Since the template would not do that for me I clamped the legs in position and did my own measurements. By doing so I have the 1/4" and 1/2" step....
The other issue you may find depends on the vintage of the casters you have on your machine. In my case the step on pedal was too close and interfered with the casters. Some people have done some grinding on the pedal or as I have done, move the pedal to the location the newer machines have.
So many little details but it can be done right.
Ed
In addition to a couple (I think 3) versions of the template there was also for a time a problem that the templates were being done on a copy machine and were not at 1:1. I had that problem. I didn't know it at the time but later found out this was at least one of the issues.
How ever you do it, I feel the steps should leave you with the machine flat on the ground then step up 1/4" followed by a step to 1/2". Since the template would not do that for me I clamped the legs in position and did my own measurements. By doing so I have the 1/4" and 1/2" step....
The other issue you may find depends on the vintage of the casters you have on your machine. In my case the step on pedal was too close and interfered with the casters. Some people have done some grinding on the pedal or as I have done, move the pedal to the location the newer machines have.
So many little details but it can be done right.
Ed
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I doubt that I will need more 3" wheels so this is no longer an issue for me. But how about those who have not yet made this modification.
Is it reasonable to assume that the problem is no longer a problem? Have the "faulty" instructions been corrected?
I would hope so. We, here on the forum, have certainly done our share of "design engineering".
Is it reasonable to assume that the problem is no longer a problem? Have the "faulty" instructions been corrected?
I would hope so. We, here on the forum, have certainly done our share of "design engineering".
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.