Horizontal micro adjustment - may be a solution without a problem

[algale]

Could also use the spindle adjust to make up for small errors -

Yep. I have a set of these HF metal shims http://www.harborfreight.com/144-piece- ... 67585.html, which include 1/64th, 1/32th and 1/16th and 1/8th. I bought them to level my table but I also have used them to adjust the quill in very small increments. The slot isn't large enough to fit over the quill but they can be used by putting one of the long edges behind the quill.

[dusty]

Yep. I have a set of these HF metal shims http://www.harborfreight.com/144-piece-body-shim-assortment-67585.html, which include 1/64th, 1/32th and 1/16th and 1/8th. I bought them to level my table but I also have used them to adjust the quill in very small increments. The slot isn't large enough to fit over the quill but they can be used by putting one of the long edges behind the quill.

Shims, like these, certainly have a place in the tool box. Yes, it would be really nice if they would spam the quill.

Using them, however, would tend to muck up some good fitting zero clearance table inserts.

[dusty]

As I stated earlier, this is a great idea. I am making a few changes to meet my own requirements but the concept remains unchanged.

The wood block will be the object of my next changes. I would like for it to be portable from the main table to the extension table and usable either at the edge of the table or in a miter slot.

The block also needs to hold the micro adjuster up off the table top (to eliminate the piece of 1/2 ply that I am currently using.

Somewhat self aligning and portable.

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[ATTACH]22586[/ATTACH]

Thanks for the inspiration Benush.

Now I need to order the adhesive tape for my adjustable collars.

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Anticipated Changes

[reible]

I don't want to rain on any ones ideas here but I did spend a good deal of time working on this same concept. My results were far less then what I had hoped for. Even attempting to returning to the same place each and every time did not work.

So much depends on how the fence is handled that even keeping it in control is difficult. How you move and even how you clamp makes a difference. I have done hundreds of tests and anything better then about a 1/32" is all you can depend on. Keep in mind that the fence needs to be at the correct dimension and be kept square. If 1/32" is all you are after then that can be done without a jig....

The Incra fence or the Jointech (no longer in business) can do this but it will cost you for the precision.

Now I'm not saying you shouldn't try and hey some of you might get better results then I have seen.... A good test will be to rip a piece of wood then use the width of your kerf plus say .010. You should be left with a piece that is .010, this is something either the incra or jointech can do with in a few thousands, and repeatably over inches of movement.

Keep in mind you will need to index if you mover over an inch, or perhaps even less distance. That is a very short amount if you needing to make distance changes very often.

Pretty much been there and done that.

Ed

[dusty]

I don't want to rain on any ones ideas here but I did spend a good deal of time working on this same concept. My results were far less then what I had hoped for. Even attempting to returning to the same place each and every time did not work.

So much depends on how the fence is handled that even keeping it in control is difficult. How you move and even how you clamp makes a difference. I have done hundreds of tests and anything better then about a 1/32" is all you can depend on. Keep in mind that the fence needs to be at the correct dimension and be kept square. If 1/32" is all you are after then that can be done without a jig....

The Incra fence or the Jointech (no longer in business) can do this but it will cost you for the precision.

Now I'm not saying you shouldn't try and hey some of you might get better results then I have seen.... A good test will be to rip a piece of wood then use the width of your kerf plus say .010. You should be left with a piece that is .010, this is something either the incra or jointech can do with in a few thousands, and repeatably over inches of movement.

Keep in mind you will need to index if you mover over an inch, or perhaps even less distance. That is a very short amount if you needing to make distance changes very often.

Pretty much been there and done that.

Ed

I already have a fence that will get me within 1/32" quite easily and accurately. It is seldom that I need to be more accurate than that but when I do, I need help.

I have an old Incra product that gets me to within 1/32" very accurately and with great repeatability. I use this fence most often on the router table. However, I frequently need to shave just a bit more or less than a standard setup. It is there and then that I would attempt to use this micro adjuster.

[greitz]

Dusty- if you make the wood block longer so that it spans the whole table, you can use an adjustable toggle clamp on each end and clamp the block against the rails, instead of to the table top.

Gary

[dusty]

Dusty- if you make the wood block longer so that it spans the whole table, you can use an adjustable toggle clamp on each end and clamp the block against the rails, instead of to the table top.

Gary

Thanks for that input. Clamping in that manner would certainly be more convenient. It might also tend to square with the rails (depending on how it is made).

[benush26]

My first design on paper looked similar to what Dusty has designed. The block, rather than being drilled as a complete block was two 2x4s drilled and then they could sandwich an aluminum tube.
The bottom half was attached via T-track to a piece of ply/MDF that had three cleats along the bottom that gave a constant index to the front, back and right edges of the table. That way it wouldn't matter which table (500, 510, etc.) size and the jig could transfer from one table to another.
The top half then would sandwich the aluminum tubing using 1/4 20 bolts with threaded inserts in the bottom.
The T-track was so that the collar could slide the length of the table and be used with or without the fence as a reference.

By determining the precise length of the collar, and a specific mark on the tubing where to attach the collar, marks could be made on the aluminum tubing for quick reference and repeated set up.

A later revision on paper had a short piece of the aluminum round tubing pressed over square tubing and a similar wood sandwich to hold the rectangular tubing and then attach an adhesive back measuring tape to the square tubing as a verifiable reference, probably from the right edge of the table. Research found that there is a 1 1/4" round tubing with a thickness that allows 1" square tubing to have a few hundredths shaved off the corners and fit inside. I'd have to find my notes but I think the round wall needs to be .085. If anyone is interested, I'll post it.

If I ever learn sketchup so what I design has any semblance of what I want to make, I'll post the complicated version.

Then I figured I would try the KISS principal and just take a square piece of stock and make a piece for the collar to slide on and see what happened.

I still think that I'll buy a pieces of the round and square aluminum stock and try and build the complicated version.

I'll also see if I can find the "sweet spot" on the fence that allows the fence to,stay true and not deviate from the collar setting position (I know what I meant - but does that make sense?)

When I get this one figured out my next pie in the sky is figuring out how to attach the lift assist (when it shows) without the blocks that attach to the top tubes and to the base assembly instead. Why? So when I buy a universal lathe table I won't have to shim it to fit over the clamp pieces. See ..... Way too much time on my hands!

Ben

[benush26]

Sort of like this

[ATTACH]22591[/ATTACH]

The larger holes in the bottom half are to attach to the track with bolts and knobs and the sort of matching smaller holes that in "theory go through both at the same place , would have a threaded insert in the bottom half so you could clamp the top half.

The square groove holds the square tubing

[ATTACH]22592[/ATTACH]

The base is viewed so you can see the cleats along the bottom and the miter T-track from the end. The cleats hold the whole thing so it fits snugly on the table. How it gets attached?? Clamps or maybe the cleat on the right side wraps under the table and then bolts go through threaded inserts to hold it from the bottom?? No, the track is not correct scale, but you get the idea (I hope )

Had no clue how to use Sketchup to show a square tube inside a round one (an really didn't want to take the time to try and figure it out), but except for the collar and adhesive backed tape, that should be the pieces.

If the base was placed on the table the same way each time, the repeatability should be plausible.

I did try and come up with a version that used my little plastic Incra sliding jig (original jig???), but that added even one more level of complication!

This was my first "complicated" jig, so I thought I'd try less complicated and that's what I posted. I'll still build this, or Dusty's if his is better.

Ain't it fun to have the brain cells firing again!!

Ben

Just thinking After I posted this, if you made the table the size of the extension table, then it should work for both tables... but then most of you probably had already thought f that...

[dusty]

Sort of like this

[ATTACH]22591[/ATTACH]

The larger holes in the bottom half are to attach to the track with bolts and knobs and the sort of matching smaller holes that in "theory go through both at the same place , would have a threaded insert in the bottom half so you could clamp the top half.

The square groove holds the square tubing

[ATTACH]22592[/ATTACH]

The base is viewed so you can see the cleats along the bottom and the miter T-track from the end. The cleats hold the whole thing so it fits snugly on the table. How it gets attached?? Clamps or maybe the cleat on the right side wraps under the table and then bolts go through threaded inserts to hold it from the bottom?? No, the track is not correct scale, but you get the idea (I hope )

Had no clue how to use Sketchup to show a square tube inside a round one (an really didn't want to take the time to try and figure it out), but except for the collar and adhesive backed tape, that should be the pieces.

If the base was placed on the table the same way each time, the repeatability should be plausible.

I did try and come up with a version that used my little plastic Incra sliding jig (original jig???), but that added even one more level of complication!

This was my first "complicated" jig, so I thought I'd try less complicated and that's what I posted. I'll still build this, or Dusty's if his is better.

Ain't it fun to have the brain cells firing again!!

Ben

Just thinking After I posted this, if you made the table the size of the extension table, then it should work for both tables... but then most of you probably had already thought f that...

If this is what you are trying to draw, give me your email address and I'll email you the step by step as I did it. I am sure there are many ways to accomplish this. I need you email because I can not (do not know how to) send the Sketchup drawings in a PM or forum email.

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But now I would like to know why you need this. Why a stick in a tube? I also do not understand the use of the t-track. What is going to move in the t-track?