Routing with a shopsmith

[nothungry3]

I have an old Mark 7 which has a router setting on the speed dial.
I tried it playing with it, using a 1/4 " carbide bit with 2 flutes, and a 1/4 " shank. The speed was set to the lowest router speed on the dial, around 3000 rpm I think. This seems like an awfully low speed, I think my router runs at 14,000.
The work climbed into the cutter and I didn't feel like I was in control. Even with a light cut, the edge was awful
I have noticed that there is not much buzz on the forum about routing. Does anyone have any tips?

[JPG]

I have an old Mark 7 which has a router setting on the speed dial.
I tried it playing with it, using a 1/4 " carbide bit with 2 flutes, and a 1/4 " shank. The speed was set to the lowest router speed on the dial, around 3000 rpm I think. This seems like an awfully low speed, I think my router runs at 14,000.
The work climbed into the cutter and I didn't feel like I was in control. Even with a light cut, the edge was awful
I have noticed that there is not much buzz on the forum about routing. Does anyone have any tips?

You likely have an old Mark VII. The router function on the Mark 5 was before hand held routers became so popular and fast.

It's major problem is indeed the slow speed compared to typical routers today. However by feeding slower routing can be done.

A hand held router is easier to control than moving the workpiece by hand. Also a drill chuck will likely not perform well holding a router bit.

A suitable fence is required for maintaining positioning. Close attention need be paid to the cutter/feed direction. If the cutter tends to pull the workpiece away from the fence, the workpiece is being fed from the wrong direction.

Lastly, do be very careful. This is more risky than a hand held router where both hands are on the opposite end of the router.

[terrydowning]

In other words, if you have a modern hand held router, use that.

[JPG]

In other words, if you have a modern hand held router, use that.

I would be interested in how one creates a long 3/8" mortise 'quicker' and as accurately with a hand held router.


Notice I did not say router 'table'.

[terrydowning]

Hey the OP didn't say nuttin' about a long 3/8" mortise.

Personally, I use chisels for mortises now. Moving away from machines. Too Noisy, Too Dusty, Too much setup time. I find the hand tools more enjoyable. I'm not in a race.

I do still have my machines and I'm not opposed to their use.

I also have a table to go with my routah so I would use a table if I were using a machine.

[JPG]

Hey the OP didn't say nuttin' about a long 3/8" mortise.

Personally, I use chisels for mortises now. Moving away from machines. Too Noisy, Too Dusty, Too much setup time. I find the hand tools more enjoyable. I'm not in a race.

I do still have my machines and I'm not opposed to their use.

I also have a table to go with my routah so I would use a table if I were using a machine.

My point was the SS though slow has advantages for some operations.


One uses what one has to do what one needs done.



So you would not go the 'hand held' route!? "All depends" is a perfect answer.

[WmZiggy]

Last summer I rebuilt 5 ceder gates in our back yard. The work called for many through mortices. After hand cutting several I opted for speed over sore wrists. I set one of my 500s in drill press mode, but fitted with a 1/2" router chuck and 3/8" up-spiral router bit. I also set the table with fence and SS mortice hold down. I used a speed setting of 'W'. With mortice lines laid out I cut each half way, flipped the boards and cut them through. The SS was/is superior to a hand held router for cutting through mortices in my experience. Also my table was fixed with vacuum pickup using the under table vac insert as well as SS finger boards to keep work firmly against the fence.

[forrestb]

This may not be considered truly 'hand-held' but it does the job. I used it with a hand-held router to cut all 3/8" loose tenons mortises on these two 6-foot bookcases. Works great.
Forrest
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[algale]

This may not be considered truly 'hand-held' but it does the job. I used it with a hand-held router to cut all 3/8" loose tenons mortises on these two 6-foot bookcases. Works great.
Forrest
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I do not understand how this jig works, can you explain?

[WmZiggy]

[quote="forrestb"]This may not be considered truly 'hand-held' but it does the job. I used it with a hand-held router to cut all 3/8" loose tenons mortises on these two 6-foot bookcases. Works great.
Forrest

A router is seldom used "hand held" (i.e. without a jig, bearing or fence of some sort). Bottom line, you have to build the jigs, some more elaborate, as in your case Forrest, than others. In the SS, you have a ready-made jig. And, if I had wanted to square the ends of the mortice, the SS mortice set allows one to do that without more set-up. I guess what I am saying is, don't overlook the great resource you have in your SS. I have also routed through/sliding dovetails using a similar set-up on my SS500. The trick is to cut it with a straight bit first, then come back with your dovetail bit.