Horizontal micro adjustment - may be a solution without a problem

[JPG]

If this is what you are trying to draw, give me your email address and I'll email you the step by step as I did it. I am sure there are many ways to accomplish this. I need you email because I can not (do not know how to) send the Sketchup drawings in a PM or forum email.

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But now I would like to know why you need this. Why a stick in a tube? I also do not understand the use of the t-track. What is going to move in the t-track?

Dusty Square tubing is clamped into the top pieces drawn. A scale is stuck to the inner square tubing. The ss collar is attached the the outer round tubing. The top pieces slide(front to rear) in the base assembly t track(lower pieces drawn). The movable round tube is referenced to the scale on the inner square tube. Fine adjustments with the ss collar.



BEN ?????? How will a single base fit both 500 and 510/20 tables?

[benush26]

BEN ?????? How will a single base fit both 500 and 510/20 tables?

It won't. A separate base for 500 and a base for 510/520 is needed. The 2x4s that make the clamp that holds the tubing are transferable if a base is made for each size table.

The reason for the t-track is as you said so the assembly can slide but it was also just a base with a t-track that I "might" use for other jig and things. I guess I was thinking about a "what if I wanted to build other things so jow would I start that?"

[benush26]

Dusty Square tubing is clamped into the top pieces drawn. A scale is stuck to the inner square tubing. The ss collar is attached the the outer round tubing. The top pieces slide(front to rear) in the base assembly t track(lower pieces drawn). The movable round tube is referenced to the scale on the inner square tube. Fine adjustments with the ss collar.

Yes, Dusty, what he said.

If the two rectangular slots that when squeezed together made the square slot, was instead two half circles, you could just use the round tubing as you have in your picture. Instead of two stop collars on the tube, I planned to use the two pieces of wood as the positioning clamp.

The square tube idea was so that I could reliably have a surface to place a measuring tape.

I guess I make things too simple to be useful or too complicated to make without a PhD in goobledygook. Which the way I describe things I might just have earned. .

Sorry for all the confusion.

Ben

[bobgroh]

Absolutely love it!! I am going to be cutting some wide slots on the table saw in the next day or so and had been pondering a way to move the fence (on a 510) in a small increment (e.g. a bit less than the saw kerf). Your idea (or a spin off) is just what I need. I have one of the SS 'micro collars' in the drawer not (at present) being used. So out it comes.

[benush26]

Dusty is AMAZING! He created the table base and fence you see!! I just added the wood stub dowel and pseudo adjustable collar.
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CAVEAT
For 500 and 510 owners
Since the 500 and 510 fences have only 3 holes instead of track, this is probably less useful (though no one has proved that it will be useful in the first place ) as you will only be able to bolt the jig in place in those three places.

The idea is to take a 1 1/4" dowel. of approximately 1 7/8"" in length,
drill a 3/8" hole in the center (doesn't have to be exact)
Using one of SS Sliding T-nuts (or a reasonable facsimile) and a 2" bolt, attach the dowel to the fence. Leave it loose enough to slide.
slide the collar over the dowel with the set screw closest to the fence and tighten the set screw.
--
At this point I would probably turn the collar so "0" or your printed graduation marks were facing up and then expand the collar 1/2" so I would have some play in the final adjustment.
--
Move the jig along the track to a point where you would normally press against the fence to adjust it (this is still a work in progress ) and tighten the bolt.

Then, when you want to make the fine tuning adjustment,
make your test cut,
press a wood block (or other large piece) against the collar and
clamp the block in place,
loosen the fence,
adjust the collar,
check that the fence is aligned,
tighten the fence.
You might want to make another test cut JIK.

If you wanted to use it as a cut length stop, just swap it to the blade side.

This DOES require more than just taking a square piece of wood and turning a cylinder on one end, so it IS getting away from my premise of inexpensive and useful. Sorry about that.

Dusty also created a FANTASTIC drawing of my more complicated version and that will make it here soon.

[dusty]

You can do the same thing on the 500. Just make a face plate for the 500 rip fence with a horizontal t-track.

There are very few show stoppers if you really need to do something.

[benush26]

You can do the same thing on the 500. Just make a face plate for the 500 rip fence with a horizontal t-track.

There are very few show stoppers if you really need to do something.

SEE! I TOLD you he was AMAZING!

[dusty]

SEE! I TOLD you he was AMAZING!

Actually, you already have (almost) a Sketchup up what that fence faceplate would be. It is part of the table top in the Sketchup I sent you earlier today.

Tip the base up on its edge, bolt it to the fence and you got it (almost).

[benush26]

HUGE HUGE THANKS to Dusty!!

He made ALL of the following possible.

This is what I first envisioned on paper before going to the simpler model.

The T-Track base is so that anything else that might come along has a base, with a index or registration to the edges of the table.

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And to all a good night

Ben

[dusty]

You might want to consider mounting t-track on the side (edge) of a floating table. No need for the base with a t-track.

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I always wondered why Shopsmith never offered an extension/floating table with a miter track so I built my own.

Great idea Ben. Now I gotta cleanup my version. Basically the same but I used round tubing and no vernier tape.