Horizontal micro adjustment - may be a solution without a problem

[dusty]

has, in my opinion, been proven.

What I have completed needs a great deal of refinement but as stated earlier it works. It works well. It eliminates the need for calibrated tap-tap-taps on the fence. And, it is easy to install and will be even easier when I complete my version of the refinements that Ben has already incorporated.

On mine, the base needs to be larger. It needs to ride in and lock into a miter track for adjust ability along the entire length of the rip fence. The tube needs to be longer to provide adequate reach from either the edge of the main table or from the extension table.

The hole that I drilled needs some skillful attention. Without giving thought to equipment capabilities, I started with a 7" wide base and a plan to drill a 1 1/4" hole through that base. That is hard to do -- with only 2 1/2" of reach with the forstner bit.

I had to cut the base down to 5" and then drill from opposite sides hoping to achieve perfect alignment. Didn't happen.

For the next version, I will drill holes in 2 1/2 wide stock, insert the tube in all three pieces and then glue them together to achieve a perfect fit. I can then properly dimension the base on the jointer and planer.

Thanks again, Ben for the inspiration and for your ideas. Good luck to you on the rest of your project.

If I can assist with Sketchup, let me know. I am always willing.

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NOTES: 1) The stop collar should be up against the wooden base. 2) Take note of the t-track on the edge of the extension table.

[dusty]

My concept of Ben's Micro Adjustable Rip Fence continues to evolve.

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It can be used in any t-track that is available.

[forrestb]

Thanks, Ben for the inspired idea for cheap horizontal fence adjustment.

I am planning on making this Advent Calendar for my granddaughters and was trying to figure out how to cut 24 boxes and have them fit properly: I needed to be able to cut down to 1/64 across 1 or 2 inch pieces. I saw your micro-adjuster, built one and am now able to cut to below 1/64 precision! After all, 1/4 turn of the stop collar is 1/64 inch movement.

Forrest

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[benush26]

I had promised a simpler form that did no require using the lathe.

The components are (right to left)
SS Adjustable Stop Collar # 555937 (The BIG BLACK cylinder )
! 1/2" 3/8-16 bolt with washer (you can only see the threads)
1 1/4" piece of 1 1/4" wood dowel (1/2" hole drilled approximately through the center - painted using Shetchup's cherry pattern)
SS Sliding T-nut #514491 (appears as a light colored rectangle next to the left of the dowel)

Exploded picture below

Slide the T-nut into the fence. Bolt with washer through the dowel and lightly tighten onto the T-nut.. Slide the Collar with the set screw threads out and secure to the dowel. I like to rotate the set screw down to 6 o'clock position. It seems to be a better position when the other half of the collar is screwed on. Move the assembly to a point where you would normally push on the fence when moving it over. Securely tighten the bolt. Thread on the other half of the collar leaving some threads visible to allow the fence to be moved out if needed. Move the fence to near the width of cut. Place a block (wood or whatever) nest to the Collar and clamp it test cut, and if needed release the fence locks, adjust the collar in or out, lock the fence and make your cut.
Note to those that do not have the 520 fence... Substitute the bolt for one of the correct diameter and length to go all the way through the fence (three locations available) and secure with a nut

I think this is an easier jig to make because it eliminate the need to use the lathe.
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Assembled (with a block clamped to the table)
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And then on the other side to use for stop block(note I have it in two postilions, across from the blade for initial set and then back for use. I do not know and have not tried, but presume since the whole assembly slides along the fence, the position should be constant across from the miter as it was across from the blade

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With the stop block set up, by snugging up the bolt so that the t-nut barely slides, I think that accuracy is kept relatively decent (unless your fence is not at all parallel to the miter slot.

Anyway, a lot of months late, but here it is.

HUGE THANKS to Dusty for his table and fence drawings!!!!

Enjoy,

Minor aside. Using the original version, some were not getting the accuracy, when releasing the fence, rotating the collar then clamping the fence. I wonder if their fence was sticking a bit. I'm not certain if this makes a difference, but I use glide-cote on the bottom of the fence where it touches anything that it has to slide along. Trick I learned from a real craftsman. When not clamped, My fence on the M7 moves with nearly no effort.

Be well,
Ben

[robinson46176]

I had not followed this thread originally, I was busy trying to figure out if I was about to croak.

I just read quickly through the whole thing just now and my only question is where is the picture showing two micro-adjust collars, one at the front of the fence and another at the back to be sure that the fence is always parallel to the blade?
It seems that it would be easier to adjust both collars the same than always putzing with the fence to be sure that it was clamping right on the front rail. Just hold the fence against both collars and clamp it...
Am I missing something about using two?


.

[STB]

Yesterday I noticed in my "you never know pile" 4 oak pieces that had 1/2 dadoes. The light lit, these could be made into inside edge measuring sticks. The dadoes were not in the center so the outside edges needed to be trimmed to size. Picture 1 shows a completed measuring stick made many years ago. the other two are in progress.

Pictures 2 & 3 show my solution to micro adjusting the fence using wedges.
The tape is used to place vernier marks that keep track of where I move the wedges. The wedges are held in place by a Shopsmith feather board hold down.

The last picture shows another use of a wedge to hold a temporary fence in place on the overarm router and has nothing to do with adjusting the fence.

I have to give Shipwright a nod for the wedge idea.

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[benush26]

I had not followed this thread originally, I was busy trying to figure out if I was about to croak.

I just read quickly through the whole thing just now and my only question is where is the picture showing two micro-adjust collars, one at the front of the fence and another at the back to be sure that the fence is always parallel to the blade?
It seems that it would be easier to adjust both collars the same than always putzing with the fence to be sure that it was clamping right on the front rail. Just hold the fence against both collars and clamp it...
Am I missing something about using two?


.

Actually when i was first "designing phase 1 , I did envision something that pushed the full length of the fence (though still using just one collar). Cheapness was the order of the day. One collar was $30 less than two and the block of wood was just scrap.

Your solution would work quite well!!

Be well,
Ben

[benush26]

Yesterday I noticed in my "you never know pile" 4 oak pieces that had 1/2 dadoes. The light lit, these could be made into inside edge measuring sticks. The dadoes were not in the center so the outside edges needed to be trimmed to size. Picture 1 shows a completed measuring stick made many years ago. the other two are in progress.

Pictures 2 & 3 show my solution to micro adjusting the fence using wedges.
The tape is used to place vernier marks that keep track of where I move the wedges. The wedges are held in place by a Shopsmith feather board hold down.

The last picture shows another use of a wedge to hold a temporary fence in place on the overarm router and has nothing to do with adjusting the fence.

I have to give Shipwright a nod for the wedge idea.

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I LOVE it when inventive minds start churning!!

Understanding the angle (possibly different angles with known marks to make coarser and finer adjustments) then gives a great reference to distance moved sideways when two angled pieces of wood are slid parallel.
Great solution!!

Be well,
Ben

[Gene Howe]

I'm using a 500 and because I need fine fence adjustment, I read this thread thoroughly and I have a question.

If a piece is cut and it needs a skosh more shaved off, what would be wrong with loosening the fence and moving it away, adjusting the vernier collar for that skosh and returning the fence to it's place against the collar?

[JPG]

I'm using a 500 and because I need fine fence adjustment, I read this thread thoroughly and I have a question.

If a piece is cut and it needs a skosh more shaved off, what would be wrong with loosening the fence and moving it away, adjusting the vernier collar for that skosh and returning the fence to it's place against the collar?

Just make sure you are registering the fence to the front rail, then sliding to the collar just before clamping. You still want to be referencing the front rail.

I do not know how small your skosh's are, but I use the thumb and finger method(one on each side) to barely move the fence. A mark on the table helps calibrate things.

BTW, disk sander works good on skoshes. Either rotating or hand held!;)