I'm restoring my second 1954 Greenie and have just painted using Rustoleum Hammered paint (Dark Green). I know that Verde is the closest to original and that is the color of my other Greenie and I wanted to be able to tell them apart:).
I mistakenly thought that leaving the painted parts out in the sun would help
"bake" the finish. I turned over the legs after four hours in the sun to paint the insides and unfortunately this was too soon. I have several raised marks on the fronts where I propped them up on wood blocks. I tried just spraying over them but the raised marks are too evident and you can also see the "spot" of paint. How do i repair these? Can I just sand down the area and spot paint or must I start over?
Paint Problem
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Paint Problem
Monte in Missouri
Two 1954 Mark V's: #268502 and #267199
Two 1954 Mark V's: #268502 and #267199
- JPG
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Depends upon how 'critical' you want to be. Perfection will require sanding down the high spots and repainting the entire surface including the sides.
I also 'bake' painted stuff, but the heat tends to make the paint 'soft'. I try to paint all sides at once and prop up or preferably hang them so minimal support is where it will not 'show' later.
FWIW, with hammertone a horizontal surface is 'gooder'. Let paint 'disperse' a few minutes before turning each surface. By that time the paint will 'set' enough to not run. It needs to be applied thick to 'disperse(create hammered look)' properly. If outdoors, wind is bad for 'dispersing'(except for carrying droplets onto yer car:eek:).
Also realize that direct sunlight will expose any imperfections(even those exceedingly small).
P.S. with 'legs', I would prefer painting the inside first, then the sides then the outside 'end' one surface at a time(short dispersement time between). The top end will not show, so grab them with a pair of pliers to move/position, then rest the bottom inside on narrow strips of wood, and set the top(again the hidden part) on a wide piece of wood(or two more short ones). Now the wind(sans insects/dust etc.) can be your friend.
I also 'bake' painted stuff, but the heat tends to make the paint 'soft'. I try to paint all sides at once and prop up or preferably hang them so minimal support is where it will not 'show' later.
FWIW, with hammertone a horizontal surface is 'gooder'. Let paint 'disperse' a few minutes before turning each surface. By that time the paint will 'set' enough to not run. It needs to be applied thick to 'disperse(create hammered look)' properly. If outdoors, wind is bad for 'dispersing'(except for carrying droplets onto yer car:eek:).
Also realize that direct sunlight will expose any imperfections(even those exceedingly small).
P.S. with 'legs', I would prefer painting the inside first, then the sides then the outside 'end' one surface at a time(short dispersement time between). The top end will not show, so grab them with a pair of pliers to move/position, then rest the bottom inside on narrow strips of wood, and set the top(again the hidden part) on a wide piece of wood(or two more short ones). Now the wind(sans insects/dust etc.) can be your friend.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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I think you can sand out the bad spots taking care to feather around the bad spots but I believe you will be most satisfied if when you repaint you paint the entire surface.mmorris wrote:I'm restoring my second 1954 Greenie and have just painted using Rustoleum Hammered paint (Dark Green). I know that Verde is the closest to original and that is the color of my other Greenie and I wanted to be able to tell them apart:).
I mistakenly thought that leaving the painted parts out in the sun would help
"bake" the finish. I turned over the legs after four hours in the sun to paint the insides and unfortunately this was too soon. I have several raised marks on the fronts where I propped them up on wood blocks. I tried just spraying over them but the raised marks are too evident and you can also see the "spot" of paint. How do i repair these? Can I just sand down the area and spot paint or must I start over?
I used a hammered gray and did not do a real good paint job. However, it is not all that bad and still cuts just as good as a could hope.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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- Ed in Tampa
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If you are going to try to repair the marks wait at least a week for the paint to dry. If you are going to repaint the whole thing check the can for wait time between coats. It may need to dry for a week or two if you are outside that window.
Repainting over paint that is outside it's recoat time but not completely dry will cause you untold problems.
Repainting over paint that is outside it's recoat time but not completely dry will cause you untold problems.
Ed in Tampa
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paint problem
Thanks for the advice. I'll wait a week and then repaint.
Monte in Missouri
Two 1954 Mark V's: #268502 and #267199
Two 1954 Mark V's: #268502 and #267199
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alisfair
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Paint
I have found using Rust o leum primer makes the shop smith paint go further. SS paint is excellant paint, just costs more and using another primer makes it last even longer. Drys fast and covers great! FYI
I usually 'hang' the legs by hooking wire (cloths hanger wire) through the bolt holes where the legs mount to the headrest and spraying them in the air...then later i do a light touch up with a brush or even a cotton swab to get coverage where the wire was. It isn't going to show after assembly any way....
Mike......... Rowlett, Texas, near Dallas
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....
86 MK V 500/520. 59 MK 5 Greenie Shorty. SS Jointer, SS Planer,
SS Bandsaw, SS Lathe duplicator, SS Belt Sander,SS Molder & Shaper,
SS Tenon master jig, SS Mortising kit, SS 2 1/4' Drum Sanders, Ringmaster, DC3300....