I think that with any tool, router, shaper, or SS in this mode, you always have to limit your cut, depending on how big and deep it is, factoring in wood density and characteristics too. For example, cherry will burn very easily, especially with rub collars. Red Oak is hard and will splinter easily, especially when cutting against the grain. White is just hard. Mahagony will burn. I usually cut end grain first, then finish the sides, but I digress.nothungry3 wrote:Finally, a positive response!
I have many of the things you define, and am looking hard at a shaper fence.
Do you have to limit your cuts (depth or wood density) due to spindle speed? If so, is this a problem?
This past winter I built a large hutch, using quarter-sawn oak with floating raised panels in the doors. I decided to use a large (3 inch) 1/2" shank coping router bit to raise the panels. I decided to use my SS for a number of reasons related to control of the panel, ease of vacuum connection under the cutter, and ease of setting up anti-kick back tools. I took several cuts using my depth control to duplicate final settings. Worked great. Here is a pic of the raised panel doors and drawers on the hutch base, cut on my SS. P.S., the Qtr. sawn oak cost $9-10 a bd/ft and the last thing you want to do is screw-it-up.
As you use the SS in this mode, you will learn and become more confident is using it as a shaper and router.
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