Beall 3-On Mandrel Buffing System

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charlese
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Location: Lancaster, CA

Post by charlese »

Sound Excellent to me, Paul! Although not an avid turner, I feel confident that info. will help me one of these days! Here's a great big ATTA BOY!! :D
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
maxwell
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Joined: Sat Jun 23, 2007 1:11 pm
Location: Bloomington, IN

Now, we're talkin! AND polishing!

Post by maxwell »

To Roy, Paul, Tim, Ed, et.al.,
This thread just keeps getting better and better!
Thanks for all the clarification of just what these adapters are, each's unique components, their uses, drawbacks, etc.
I've made a wooden chuck/collet from a 3x3x3 in. block of hard maple scrap (as per Ed's idea):
- I used my 4 jaw chuck to hold the block and center-drilled a 1/2 in. hole thru it.
- I then reversed the block and rechucked it into the jaws and drilled a 5/8 in. hole 1/2 in. deep into that end.
- I then turned/reamed a taper from the 5/8 in. hole and 'connected' the 1/2 in. hole.
The Beall slips into this block w/ NO wiggle, wabble slop, etc. When used as any spindle turning (piece tightly pressed between drive end tail; switched-on momentarily to check for out-of-center, etc; re-tightening the quill-feed as needed, and then power-on and go) this unit now works as advertised. WOW!! The thing spins just as smoothly as a spanked baby's bottom, and results in a just as smooth and glossy finish. <I know, the reference to spanked babies butts is terribly NOT PC; but it's a old saying of my very salty neighbor who was one of the gentlest souls on the planet.>
Now, I just might start a new thread as to WHEN/HOW to finish using a penetrating, film, and/or polish finish. I 'think' the Beall system cleans and burnishes the wood, and then applies a wax film finish which is then polished. I'll bet the advise would start with: "What is the piece gonna be used for, and then plan/finish accordingly..."
The Best Wood Tools site looks like another SUPER ShopSmith resource (Don Pencil, too)!
Again, a million "Thanks!"to ALL who've weighed in! Next time y'all are in my neck o' da woods (midwest - last post, a week ago, sun was shining and spring had arrived-now looking out window, no sun w/ snow flurries...ARRGGHHH) lemme buy ya a beverage of your choice and we'll swap lies...
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a1gutterman
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Location: "close to" Seattle

Post by a1gutterman »

Hi maxwell,
Glad that you found a solution, and shared it.:)
Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
charlese
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Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 10:46 pm
Location: Lancaster, CA

Post by charlese »

Wow, Maxwell! You solved the situation by throwing $ at it.:rolleyes: About $3 of wood, $0.10 electricity (being generous).

That's the way I like to see thing being done! A great big ATTA BOY!! for you - - and another for Ed in Tampa! ATTA BOY!!, Ed.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
tradertom
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 12:10 pm
Location: Tifton, GA

Post by tradertom »

billmayo wrote:I would only use a #2 Morse taper to a #2 morse taper adapter. I would not try to modify any thing to hold the #2 morse taper as vibration will make it loose and very dangerous. I have used this one at slow speeds on the Shopsmith as the WTTools store is nearby.
http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/prod ... Collet_Set $18.95

I know I saw a 5/8" ID to #2 Morse Taper adapter somewhere in my searching in the past but could not find it today.

Bill Mayo

Wonder if you could use the addaptor with a 1//2" router chuck?
Thanks,

Tom Boardman
Tifton, GA
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