Does anyone know if the rubber part of the drum sander is available? The one I just got is rock hard, and needs to be replaced. (Yes, it came with an ER, but the current catalog picture looks exactly the same.)
I don't need the whole drum, just the rubber part.
steve
Drum sander?
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What is the serial number, and how is it composed?
What I mean, the nameplate could say;
Model ER, serial number ER*******.
Or;
Model E, serial number R******.
or;
Model ER, serial ******.
Or, even;
Model E, serial number ******.
Also, look for the Yahoo 10ER group. Skip has
NUMEROUS records on early Shopsmiths. Since
you have an ER, you should join anyway.
I just looked at the 3 headstocks I've currently got,
and I've got 10er, ser# **** and model 10E, ser#R*****
and model 10ER ser# R*****. I had model 10E, ser# ****.
The model E ser #*** was the only real E model I've had.
the rest were all some kind of factory conversions, or true ER
models. There are numerous different setups, but all the pieces
can be updated by later pieces. (Except single-wedge locks.)
Also look for a hole behind the nameplate. (If you tap on it,
it sounds hollow) or single wedge locks. The single wedge locks
are VASTLY superior, because retracting the lock will pull the wedge
away. (The wedge sits on a narrow part of the screw. Tightening
it pushes it in, loosening it pulls the wedge out. the others depend
on a spring, which isn't always foolproof.) The hole behind the
nameplate, if you replace the lower rivet with a screw, you can
move the nameplate to get to the back of the power switch.
steve
What I mean, the nameplate could say;
Model ER, serial number ER*******.
Or;
Model E, serial number R******.
or;
Model ER, serial ******.
Or, even;
Model E, serial number ******.
Also, look for the Yahoo 10ER group. Skip has
NUMEROUS records on early Shopsmiths. Since
you have an ER, you should join anyway.
I just looked at the 3 headstocks I've currently got,
and I've got 10er, ser# **** and model 10E, ser#R*****
and model 10ER ser# R*****. I had model 10E, ser# ****.
The model E ser #*** was the only real E model I've had.
the rest were all some kind of factory conversions, or true ER
models. There are numerous different setups, but all the pieces
can be updated by later pieces. (Except single-wedge locks.)
Also look for a hole behind the nameplate. (If you tap on it,
it sounds hollow) or single wedge locks. The single wedge locks
are VASTLY superior, because retracting the lock will pull the wedge
away. (The wedge sits on a narrow part of the screw. Tightening
it pushes it in, loosening it pulls the wedge out. the others depend
on a spring, which isn't always foolproof.) The hole behind the
nameplate, if you replace the lower rivet with a screw, you can
move the nameplate to get to the back of the power switch.
steve
The rubber sleeve showed up today, and after 60+ years, the rubber drum is the same. Works perfectly. (I wonder just how long these 60 year old drums will last. They are in a box labeled Magna, from San Francisco.)skou wrote:Thanks, Rob!
Just ordered it. The sanding drum in the picture
STILL looks like the same thing from my ER stuff.
steve
steve