I had occasion today to rip some long fir 2x4s that were purchased as 'kiln dried.' They still were at 12% so in ripping them the splitter on my SS was not adequate to keep the cut at the blade from closing. The surface of the boards on the table had been just flattened with the jointer so I did not suspect cocking.
I found it best to stop the SS when the speed of the SS just first began to slow (which surprised me because it is a PP). Pulled the board back a bit and used a shim (wedge found at all big box stores for aligning framed doors) in the far end of the board to force it open. Re-starting the SS and continuing the cut was done safely with no hint of kickback or slowdown of the SS.
Some mahogany that I used measured 8% but it had been in my 'shop' for years. I am in SoCal so that is probably typical even though I am near the coast.
Forrest
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
A knowledgeable helper that knows not to rack the board on the saw is required.
Alternately, stopping the saw and inserting the wedges works. Been there done that.
A lot of the big box lumber gets stored incorrectly. I've seen the wet stuff stored in the bins marked Kiln Dried. To many store workers, they are just 2 x 4s and they really do not know the difference.
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Terry
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Remember most 2x dimenisional limber is tree farmed grown where it is brought to useful size for use as fast as possible. Then the tree is cut and the log is in the sawmill the same day. It never had time to recover from being cut down let alone go through normal growth cycles.
Even dried the wood tends to be unstable. If you have ever done any finish work on a stick built house built in the last 10 years or so you know what I mean.
I have seen 2x4 studs almost do a 360 degree twist over 8 feet. Rip that wood I don't care how dry and you are going to have blade bind.