Bandsaw Squeal

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mountainbreeze
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Bandsaw Squeal

Post by mountainbreeze »

I have had two SS bandsaws (only have one now) and both of them have this annoying squeal when running with no load (not cutting anything) that comes and goes. I finally spent some time yesterday to find out where it is coming from and found it is the double bearing near the tension adjuster. Is this normal or do the bearings need to be replaced? The bearings that are there now say 627ZZ SST CHINA on them. If replacing them will stop the squeal, I is there a recommended replacement or should I just get two more from VBX for $1.49 each?
Bill
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

mountainbreeze wrote:I have had two SS bandsaws (only have one now) and both of them have this annoying squeal when running with no load (not cutting anything) that comes and goes. I finally spent some time yesterday to find out where it is coming from and found it is the double bearing near the tension adjuster. Is this normal or do the bearings need to be replaced? The bearings that are there now say 627ZZ SST CHINA on them. If replacing them will stop the squeal, I is there a recommended replacement or should I just get two more from VBX for $1.49 each?
Yes, that is the right number and yes, that ungodly squeal is typical. Is it "normal"? I guess that depends on your definition of normal. I certainly think there should be a way to avoid that noise but I would venture a guess that all Shopsmith bandsaws are plagued with that noise.

Replacing the bearings will give you some relief for some amount of time. Actually, the relief will be quite satisfying. It will sound like you think it should - finally.

The squeal WILL COME BACK.

I actually do not believe it is the "bearing" that is squealing. I have rigged up a way to spin those bearings with and without load only to discover that bad bearings run quiet.

One theory is the metal to metal contact of the blade against the bearing. Theory unproven.

It is a shame, really. This bandsaw is a great tool but it sounds terrible. If I was shopping for one and I heard that squeal - I would continue shopping.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:Yes, that is the right number and yes, that ungodly squeal is typical. Is it "normal"? I guess that depends on your definition of normal. I certainly think there should be a way to avoid that noise but I would venture a guess that all Shopsmith bandsaws are plagued with that noise.

Replacing the bearings will give you some relief for some amount of time. Actually, the relief will be quite satisfying. It will sound like you think it should - finally.

The squeal WILL COME BACK.

I actually do not believe it is the "bearing" that is squealing. I have rigged up a way to spin those bearings with and without load only to discover that bad bearings run quiet.

One theory is the metal to metal contact of the blade against the bearing. Theory unproven.

It is a shame, really. This bandsaw is a great tool but it sounds terrible. If I was shopping for one and I heard that squeal - I would continue shopping.
Gotta admit I have not tried this, but, anyone tried jpw on the guide bearings and blade? Maybe rounding(ever so slightly) the back corners of the blade. Mine do not squeal(yet????), so I be at a disadvantage here.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

JPG40504 wrote:Mine do not squeal(yet????), so I be at a disadvantage here.

So it's an advantage for them to squeal.:D
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:Gotta admit I have not tried this, but, anyone tried jpw on the guide bearings and blade? Maybe rounding(ever so slightly) the back corners of the blade. Mine do not squeal(yet????), so I be at a disadvantage here.
Yes, I have tried JPW as well as grease and oil. Grease and/or oil both NOT being suitable solutions even if it worked.
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greitz
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Post by greitz »

By close observation with my bandsaw running and the cover off (CAUTION!), I noticed that my squeal happened when the blade momentarily jumped from running in the gap between the bearings to running on the surface of one of the bearings. I fixed it by readjusting those bearings so that the gap between the bearings is directly behind the blade and absolutely parallel with the blade. It took quite a bit of tweaking to get it right.

Gary
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

greitz wrote:By close observation with my bandsaw running and the cover off (CAUTION!), I noticed that my squeal happened when the blade momentarily jumped from running in the gap between the bearings to running on the surface of one of the bearings. I fixed it by readjusting those bearings so that the gap between the bearings is directly behind the blade and absolutely parallel with the blade. It took quite a bit of tweaking to get it right.

Gary
Upper guide bearings? The ones the blade is not supposed to be touching?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
greitz
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Post by greitz »

No, the auto-track bearings near the blade tension adjustment. My blade would run between the two bearings fine for a few seconds, then pop out of the gap and run on the edge of one of the bearings and squeal like crazy, then pop back into the gap and quiet back down. Maybe my blade tension wasn't quite tight enough, as well?

Gary
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Post by billmayo »

I find using a very thin shim between the two auto track bearings and lightly honing the back of the bandsaw blade to remove the sharp back edges works really well to keep the blade between the two bearings. I use the this bolt, 2 bearings and thin shim in place of the upper and lower guide bearings. I got the thin shims from the shim on each side of the roller bushings that Shopsmith used before switching to bearings. Never measured these shims yet. This works very similar to the Carter Stablizer upgrade that sells for around $80.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

greitz wrote:No, the auto-track bearings near the blade tension adjustment. My blade would run between the two bearings fine for a few seconds, then pop out of the gap and run on the edge of one of the bearings and squeal like crazy, then pop back into the gap and quiet back down. Maybe my blade tension wasn't quite tight enough, as well?

Gary

Gotta admit the 'terminology' can be confusing! I think of the band saw guide bearings as 'rear', 'upper'(front above table) and 'lower'(front below table). Rear being inside the blade housing, and upper/lower above and below the table respectively.

'Rear' being the one(s) on the back edge of the blade(the side moving up).

'Lower' as the one(s) under the table that guides the blade onto the lower wheel.

'Upper' as the one(s) above the table that is adjustable heightwise.

The reason for "ones(s)" above is the older upper guide bearings were a single bearing, not a pair and the 'dual' bearing upper and lower bearings are a user(not SS) modification.

I am not currently running with any 'single' bearings.

The upper guide bearing(s) should not touch the blade unless pushed onto it/them by the workpiece pressing against the blade.

The lower and rear guide bearing(s) should constantly contact the backup bearing(s)(and stay 'in the groove' between them if 'dual') and constantly rotate(both if dual) with blade motion.

I have little experience with the single bearing setup as I converted my bandsaws immediately upon acquiring them.

I do not experience the 'dreaded' squeal(not yet anyway:rolleyes:) but have not used the more recently acquired BS much yet.

I do hope I am not on 'borrowed' time!:eek:




Y'all do realize setting up(aligning guides etc.) the bandsaw is a long trial and error procedure. Many many things to check and recheck as further adjustments are made(especially the upper blade guide stuff). Do save that undertaking for last!!!:D
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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