Speedchanger out of alignment.

timsturnings · Post by **timsturnings** » Sat Sep 28, 2013 11:10 am

I bought a used speed changer for my 10er off ebay a couple of years ago. When I hooked it up I noticed it had been repaired. It had been welded apparently after a break. When I hooked it up it is very difficult to move the headstock with the speed changer attached. It looks as though everything is not lined up correctly on the tubes with the head stock. Anything I can do to make it so it will move more freely on the tubes. I use JPW on the tubes and it still very difficult to slide. Could I somehow ream it out so it slides more freely? I just bought a PSI universal chuck and pen jaws so I can drill pen blanks on it. But like I said, it is very difficult to slide it back and forth.
Tim.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Sep 28, 2013 11:59 am

timsturnings wrote:I bought a used speed changer for my 10er off ebay a couple of years ago. When I hooked it up I noticed it had been repaired. It had been welded apparently after a break. When I hooked it up it is very difficult to move the headstock with the speed changer attached. It looks as though everything is not lined up correctly on the tubes with the head stock. Anything I can do to make it so it will move more freely on the tubes. I use JPW on the tubes and it still very difficult to slide. Could I somehow ream it out so it slides more freely? I just bought a PSI universal chuck and pen jaws so I can drill pen blanks on it. But like I said, it is very difficult to slide it back and forth.
Tim.

To be able to slide them attached to each other requires near perfect alignment. Are you attempting to move the pair with the attaching screw/nut tightened? If so, loosening the nut may help.

Does the speed reducer move freely when not attached to the headstock? If so, the binding may be due to the sr/hs mating surfaces causing the sr to get cocked on the way tubes.

I would ream only as a last resort to correct misalignment caused by the repair(weld).

What part has been welded?

Do make sure you do not adjust the speed so fast as to fully compress either spring on the control shaft.

timsturnings · Post by **timsturnings** » Sat Sep 28, 2013 6:41 pm

The bracket that is holding one of the sleeves was welded. And both sleeves are not aligned on the way tubes. Loosening up the nut holding the headstock and reducer helps a little. Both headstock and speed reducer move freely when not attached to each other. I'll try to use it as is, since it is a little better with the loosened screw.

If it gets too frustrating I will probably try to ream the reducer out a little bit, I can't really see where that would hurt much of anything.

Thanks for the reply. I know to make it move better, eventually reaming will be needed. I can't see anything else that could help.

I just wish I would have known it had been repaired when I bought it off ebay. I paid top dollar for it, $150 or so. The repair was not mentioned in the ad and I didn't put it on my SS until close to 6-8 months after I bought it. As soon as I put it on I noticed it was not aligned correctly.
Tim.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 12:08 am

You could use a brake hone to enlarge the hole that you believe is the one that is crooked. I have sawed a split in an 3/8" rod and used sandpaper in the split to remove metal inside holes. I would drill and install a set screw in the honed bracket to take out any slack when you use the speed changer. I would use the same set screw as the saw arbor so the same allen wrench works.

You need a good jig to insure alignment in these cases. I would not cut and reweld the bracket unless you build a good jig for this task.

skou · Post by **skou** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 4:00 am

Tim, almost ALL speedchangers have this problem. The nut on that setscrew that holds it to the headstock, needs to be VERY loose. When I had a speedchanger running, I didn't even use that nut. The belts will move it, when you move the headstock.

Go to the Yahoo 10ER group. there are a BUNCH of ER users there. (You might even see me there.)

Or, listen to Bill. He's forgotten more about the ER, than I'll ever know.

steve

skou · Post by **skou** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 4:12 am

Oh, like JPG said, DO NOT adjust the speedchanger, without the machine turning over! That is what probably broke it originally. (If you don't want to turn it on, put the sanding disc on, and turn that by hand, while adjusting the speedchanger crank)

Where exactly, is the weld? Is it on one of the "ears" where the threaded rod hooks up? If so, which ear? One of them moves the pulley, and the other one is static. (It doesn't move.) I've seen LOTS of welded speedchangers, and it's always a broken off ear. If it is an ear, unless it was welded on REALLY out of line, it will work.

The major "issues" with the speedchangers, not being able to move the headstock, and people adjusting without running the belts.

I've had a welded one, as well as a stock one, and both of them had problems sliding on the way tubes.

If you can, a picture'd be handy.

steve

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 10:18 am

An added 'detail'.

The 10E/R speed changer is different from a Mark V... speed control in that the control arm is spring loaded(both directions) and a belt is being squeezed regardless of whether the speed is being 'increased' or 'decreased'.

The springs are there to prevent the control arm exerting excessive force to the ears. That is why one needs to make sure the springs do not get fully compressed while adjusting it.

A simple preventative measure that has been oft ignored, hence broken ears are common!

I have seen other types of breakage/welding.

I sometimes wonder if trying to move the speed changer with the headstock has not caused those failures. It is the piece that attaches to the headstock that also gets fractured, but the broken ears are more prevalent.

I like Bill's honing suggestion.

Just need to get it all aligned(not sure how to align with a hone!).

I do not think excessive slop there would be detrimental.

That thing is already 'noisey'!:D

timsturnings · Post by **timsturnings** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 10:14 pm

I know, I know not to move the speed changer without the machine on and moving.

The ear that was broken off and welded back on it the one on the side facing the operator, the one with the double sleeve with a snap ring on it and the 0-5 gauge.

I will try and use it with the setscrew loose. I know the belts will move the entire unit but it is still difficult to move. I have to grab the tailstock for leverage to move the headstock/speed changer. Thanks also for letting me know the unit is difficult to move whether it has been repaired or not. Nature of the beast, I guess.

Thanks for the replies. I might try reaming it out at some point, but the sleeve that looks crooked is the one that hasn't been welded. Weird.
Tim.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Sep 30, 2013 12:58 am

Since it was the ear that was welded, that means the piece with both bores is still in 'original' condition except for 'wear'.

Ya might look at those bores to determine where binding may be occurring indicated by wear(or ding spots).

I assume JPW is at work here!

timsturnings · Post by **timsturnings** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:48 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Since it was the ear that was welded, that means the piece with both bores is still in 'original' condition except for 'wear'.

Ya might look at those bores to determine where binding may be occurring indicated by wear(or ding spots).

I assume JPW is at work here!

Thanks, I didn't notice that the ear being welded couldn't make it out of alignment, I just checked.
I'll have to pull it off and see if there is something making it seem out of alignment, or maybe it just moves hard, nature of the beast?

And yes, I am using Johnson's Paste Wax. Thanks again to all.
Tim.