Pen turning issue

texomawood · Post by **texomawood** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 3:06 pm

I am starting on pen turning. I have had two issues, one the pen blanks "slip" when roughing them down. I have to really crank down on the knurled knob at the end of the mandrel to keep the blank from slipping. If I do that then as I am turning the blank splits and tears out at the end.
Any suggestions?? I have turned bowls and spindles but never pens.

aloibl · Post by **aloibl** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 4:36 pm

If you are truing the ends of the pen blanks before putting the blanks on the mandrel all the pressure should be on the metal tubes not on the wooden. I have had a lot of things go wrong when I am turning but never had a blank split because I was putting to much pressure on it with the mandrel.

Alan Loibl

texomawood · Post by **texomawood** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 4:57 pm

I did true the ends, but I was wondering if I needed to go deeper. I was afraid of damaging the brass tubes so I left the blanks a little "proud". I will try trueing the ends a little more to see if that fixes my issues. Thanks.
I just started doing pens and bottle stoppers this weekend, my gosh it is addictive.

texomawood · Post by **texomawood** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 5:02 pm

Alan,
Have you by chance taken a pen turning class at the Austin Woodcraft store??? If so how was it? Worth the money or not so much?

drl · Post by **drl** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 5:48 pm

IMHO I believe that you are being to aggressive in turning the blank and/or dull tools. There should not need to be a race to get the blank turned especially when first turning the blank to get the corners off. Light passes will give you the results you are looking for. You also may have the speed to slow. I turn blanks at 1,400 to 1,600 rpm (speed dial G or H). Blanks should be squared just to the brass tubes-no more, no less. Having the mandel knob "really cranked down" can cause the mandrel to bend and cause out of round turnings and vibration. There are also a large number video's on how to get started. Here is one of hundreds: http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafe ... ning+video

Good luck.
Dwight

kenbu · Post by **kenbu** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 6:47 pm

I am a new pen turner, too. I find that Dwight's advice on trimming is the way to go -- trim just until you see the bright gold ring. Also, I highly recommend the "mandrel saver" from Penn State Industries to avoid putting too much pressure on the mandrel. Enjoy!

Ken

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 8:15 pm

Texomawood;
One of the tricks that I have learned is to turn the end of the blanks down to the bushing in a taper so that when you turn the main part of the pen the tool does not leave the blank abruptly but the transition is softened by the taper. Also turning the speed up causes most beginning turners to take smaller and lighter cuts and results in a smoother cut. The fact that the blank sometimes spins on the mandrel is because you are being too aggressive with the cut. Back off and take a lighter cut. The stalling blank problem is actually a good thing for a beginning turner because it gives a visual aid of making an improper cut without causing a danger or other problem, (spoiled blank). I believe that the reason the blank split is because it was not supported by the brass tube and the tool actually lifted the grain causing the break.
As was mentioned before, sharp tools are an absolute MUST. Dull tools will dig in and cause small catches which, in small turnings, will cause big problems!!
I square up my blanks using the 6X48 belt sander. If you have one make sure that the table is at 90 deg to the platten. Do not trust the test by making the table 90 to the sandpaper. Ripples in the paper can throw you off. If you use the disc sander make sure that it is square to the main table and also to the miter square. Put an extension on the miter gauge that will come about 1/8 inch away from the disc. Do not trust the scales, use a visual aid. I like to use drafting triangles for checking square.
When I square a blank I touch the blank to the sandpaper and then turn the blank 90 deg and touch again. When you touch the brass tube you will hear a very different sound and the brass will be bright.
Let us know how you make out.
Bill V

texomawood · Post by **texomawood** » Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:17 am

Thanks for all the advice. I use Easy Wood carbide tip tools so I always have sharp tools. I squared and trimmed up my blanks more aggressively, taking them down to the brass tube on both ends. This seems to have solved my issues.

aloibl · Post by **aloibl** » Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:55 am

Texomawood,

I have never taken a class on pen turning. I learned most of what I know through watching you tube videos. Everybody does it different. You just kind of have to see what works and does not work for you. I have pretty good at turning wooden pens, but I started turning acrylic a while ago and that is a different beast. I blew up several blanks before figuring the right way for me and the last two have come out spectacular. I destroyed my last one I did but I figured out that I didn't have my tool rest tightened all the way down and when it shifted the tool rest and tool into the blank it just chunked the end of it off. I also had to turn the end of the acrylics different than I did the wooden ones. They are just not as forgiving. I joined a local turning group about four months ago so I have been trying to do some bowls. The experienced turners in my group make it look so easy. But it is a different story when you try it yourself. Have fun with it. It is very addictive. But be safe with everything you do!

drashop · Post by **drashop** » Mon Sep 30, 2013 9:06 am

I have started turning pens this weekend too. Very addictive. I take the corners off with the band saw less to rough off.