Bandsaw squeal & vibration

[texomawood]

I was using my <1 yearold shopsmith bandsaw and had heavy vibrations and high pitched squeal. I checked blocks, guide bearings & tension. It kept up and finally quit under no load. The idler wheel (upper wheel) hub felt hot. So I pulled it off and the several of the roller bearings inside were in pieces. I found a small nick on the shaft with a magnifier.
Has anybody had a similar issue? I can't call CS until Monday. can the shaft be replaced in the upper arm? I don't want to put a new wheel on the old shaft, just to repeat the issue.

[dusty]

I was using my <1 yearold shopsmith bandsaw and had heavy vibrations and high pitched squeal. I checked blocks, guide bearings & tension. It kept up and finally quit under no load. The idler wheel (upper wheel) hub felt hot. So I pulled it off and the several of the roller bearings inside were in pieces. I found a small nick on the shaft with a magnifier.
Has anybody had a similar issue? I can't call CS until Monday. can the shaft be replaced in the upper arm? I don't want to put a new wheel on the old shaft, just to repeat the issue.

As I understand, you have no choice but to replace the upper wheel and the axle because they are preassembled and sold that way. I think this is because of the way the wheel is "pressed" onto the shaft.

I'll be reading this thread to validate that.

I should have pulled up the exploded parts diagram before I spoke. I don't know why I stated that the wheel is pressed onto the axle since I recently had the upper wheel and bearing off to pack it with lithium grease.

I'll try to quit making these rash statements without some extra reading. Maybe it was the lower wheel and axle assembly that confused me. Was that an acceptable "soft shoe"?:o

[algale]

I was using my <1 yearold shopsmith bandsaw and had heavy vibrations and high pitched squeal. I checked blocks, guide bearings & tension. It kept up and finally quit under no load. The idler wheel (upper wheel) hub felt hot. So I pulled it off and the several of the roller bearings inside were in pieces. I found a small nick on the shaft with a magnifier.
Has anybody had a similar issue? I can't call CS until Monday. can the shaft be replaced in the upper arm? I don't want to put a new wheel on the old shaft, just to repeat the issue.

I think Dusty is right about having to replace the arm and axle together. For future reference, the needle bearings need lube but I don't recall the maintenance schedule. HOLY COW, I just reread your post and see it was less than one year old! I assume you purchased directly from Shopsmith and I would hope they will take care of it.

[JPG]

Dusty has cornfused me!

I agree both the axle and wheel/bearing need to be replaced.

The wheel and bearing are 'preassembled' and not available 'separately'.

The axle is part of the upper arm.

Being less than 1 yr old, I would absolutely inform SS CS and expect much 'co-operation' from them.

Keep all pieces so they can be sent to SS.

Call early Mon AM.


Good Luck!!!

[texomawood]

I assume that the wheel and shaft have to be replaced together. What I am not sure of is if the whole upper arm must be replaced. The upper bearing is lubed with graphite, which I did. But I wouldn't expect that with light to moderate use I'd need to do it more than I did. I've only had it since late March / April. I will keep everybody posted on how I make out.

[algale]

I assume that the wheel and shaft have to be replaced together. What I am not sure of is if the whole upper arm must be replaced. The upper bearing is lubed with graphite, which I did. But I wouldn't expect that with light to moderate use I'd need to do it more than I did. I've only had it since late March / April. I will keep everybody posted on how I make out.

I use lithium grease. I'm not sure that graphite is recommended for this application.

[sawdust2155]

I have never had needle bearings break up like that....I too use lithium grease on the bearings...I replaced band saw bearings on recently purchased used SS with bandsaw, planer, dust collector, jointer, belt sander, and power stand!!! I think buying used is the only way to go!!!
Let me tell you what else I did to the bandsaw; I removed the "cool blocks" and holders top and bottom, left backup bearing on bottom, then adding two narrow bearings coupled together with thin washer in between them to the upper position, with NOTHING else!! This works like the Carter bandsaw upgrade...Use a 3/16 blade as it fits between the bearings and the depth is held by the thin washer. The teeth sticks out the right amount and does not touch bearings..This setup works BEAUTIFULLY!!!!:p

[billmayo]

YES, I totally agree and keep posting this change when possible. The 1/4" blade works really for cutting sharper corners (toys) with the double bearing and a shim/washer to guide the blade. It is a lot cheaper than the Carter Stablizer ($80). I am sure anyone can play with the spacing between the bearings to accomplish a specific task on the bandsaw. I used what was available.

[texomawood]

I sent an email to Shopsmith on Sunday afternoon explaining the issue with my saw. When I called this am CS told me they got it and were working on it. They called me about 30 min. later to say a new upper wheel and upper arm/axial unit was being shipped to me. They asked me to send back the old parts, only question was what speed I was running at, after I said I was using the program in the PowerPro there were no further questions. All in all a very good solution.

[JPG]

I sent an email to Shopsmith on Sunday afternoon explaining the issue with my saw. When I called this am CS told me they got it and were working on it. They called me about 30 min. later to say a new upper wheel and upper arm/axial unit was being shipped to me. They asked me to send back the old parts, only question was what speed I was running at, after I said I was using the program in the PowerPro there were no further questions. All in all a very good solution.

Good News!


They still be doing things 'right'!:)