I'm replacing the bearings in my 10E this week, and need to double check the removal process for the drive bearings(?). I've removed the shaft assembly and have removed the stepped pulley from the shaft. I'm trying to use a bearing puller to remove the two bearings and the spacer, all at the same time, in the direction of the pulley. So far, I'm getting nowhere fast with this step.
Am I going in the right direction, or should I be pulling them off the other way?
The quill and motor bearings were all on there pretty well, but they broke loose with a moderate amount of force on the bearing puller (and a little soak in PB Blaster). I'm applying enough force to this assembly that I'm starting to get concerned about breakage, so I've backed off of most of the tension and have applied a bit more PB blaster.
Someone please tell me I'm pulling these in the correct direction! (But only if it's the truth! )
Cavediver wrote:I'm replacing the bearings in my 10E this week, and need to double check the removal process for the drive bearings(?). I've removed the shaft assembly and have removed the stepped pulley from the shaft. I'm trying to use a bearing puller to remove the two bearings and the spacer, all at the same time, in the direction of the pulley. So far, I'm getting nowhere fast with this step.
Am I going in the right direction, or should I be pulling them off the other way?
The quill and motor bearings were all on there pretty well, but they broke loose with a moderate amount of force on the bearing puller (and a little soak in PB Blaster). I'm applying enough force to this assembly that I'm starting to get concerned about breakage, so I've backed off of most of the tension and have applied a bit more PB blaster.
Someone please tell me I'm pulling these in the correct direction! (But only if it's the truth! )
Did you loosen the two socket head set screws oriented ninety degrees apart?
SDSSmith wrote:Did you loosen the two socket head set screws oriented ninety degrees apart?
You are pulling the correct direction.
There is a spacer between the two main shaft bearings that is retained by those two set screws Rob mentioned. Remove the setscrews completely and pour some penetrating oil(or kerosene!:D) in thar.
FWIW, I had a difficult time pulling mine!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Are you guys talking about the screws holding the shaft assembly in the headstock, or are there more set screws attaching the spacer to the drive shaft?
The shaft and bearings are out of the headstock and sitting on my bench. I've cleaned the spacer all the way down to bare aluminum and can't see any set screws. There are a couple of marks / indentations from the headstock set screws on it, but there are no setscrews (unless those marks are setscrews that were welded over and ground almost flush...).
Mine is a 10E, not an ER, if that makes any difference.
Cavediver wrote:Are you guys talking about the screws holding the shaft assembly in the headstock, or are there more set screws attaching the spacer to the drive shaft?
The shaft and bearings are out of the headstock and sitting on my bench. I've cleaned the spacer all the way down to bare aluminum and can't see any set screws. There are a couple of marks / indentations from the headstock set screws on it, but there are no setscrews (unless those marks are setscrews that were welded over and ground almost flush...).
Mine is a 10E, not an ER, if that makes any difference.
...And it was all going so well...
Lol.
Well that explains how you were using a bearing puller!
There are no set screws securing the spacer to the shaft.
Are you attempting to pull one bearing at a time?
My memory is failing me re direction to pull the bearings off the shaft.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:Well that explains how you were using a bearing puller!
There are no set screws securing the spacer to the shaft.
Are you attempting to pull one bearing at a time?
My memory is failing me re direction to pull the bearings off the shaft.
Lol!
No, I've got to pull both at the same time]http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... stcount=97[/URL]
It appears as though I'm not nuts and that I'm working in the correct direction. That's something, right? Lol. Those suckers are really on there. I guess it's just down to time, pressure, and some more chemicals.
Try the freezer over night with heating the bearings after puller is attached and pulling approach.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Thanks, but that's the wrong one
However, that video did answer a big question I had: despite the fact that the bearings were fully seated, the quill shaft still has 1/4" of movement (the front bearing actually slides in and out of the end of the quill housing). I learned that it's supposed to be that way, and that the collar that clamps on the end of the quill removes that play. Thanks for posting that video!
Three freeze-thaw cycles and one torch later, and it's finally free.
That was, by far, the hardest bearing I've tried to pull. The thing I find odd: there was absolutely no corrosion on the shaft under or around those bearings. That part of the shaft looks like it was made yesterday.
Anyhow, it's off, and now I'm on to the next step. I hope I can get the new bearings back on!
)
