510 Lower & Uppper Gaurd + Blade Aligment?

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Bill F.
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510 Lower & Uppper Gaurd + Blade Aligment?

Post by Bill F. »

Help please. :confused:
I'm not understanding how to align the blade with riving knife in the upper guard assembly. If I place the saw blade arbor tightly against the silver knurled spindle knob, the saw blade will bind against the lower guard. The lower guard adjustment set screw is in all the way, so I know that's NOT the causing the misalignment.

I see two possible solutions.
A. move the saw arbor to the right and do this again for every set up or B. move saw arbor AND the knurled spindle knob both to the right, so that saw arbor will locate in the same position on the next change over.

Can move the spindle knob to the right and create a "gap" between the spindle knob and the quill? It will need to move approximately .200" away from the headstock.

I have some suspicions about this machine, I just replaced the spindle knob, the prior spindle knob looks like somebody torqued all the knurling off with a set of channel locks.

Thanks in advance for your help! I've done all the preventive maintenance and alignment literally by book, but now I'm stumped. Hopefully I can start making some saw dust, safely, soon.
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charlese
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Post by charlese »

Don't have a good answer, but are you sure you have a Shopsmith saw arbor?
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... arbors.htm Looks like your arbor may be too short.

Here's the SS 5/8" arbor - http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... tem=555608
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Bill F.
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Post by Bill F. »

Thanks for the response.
The arbor item number is 555321 (Model 500 only). I don't know what the differences are between 500, and 505,510,520 ?
I guess it could be overall length, maybe? This would explain my problem.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Bill F. wrote:Thanks for the response.
The arbor item number is 555321 (Model 500 only). I don't know what the differences are between 500, and 505,510,520 ?
I guess it could be overall length, maybe? This would explain my problem.
The 500 arbor is indeed shorter than the 505...20 arbor.

Also be aware there are two versions of the knurled collar. The difference being the length of the end that faces the bearing(inside the quill)
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

Bill F. wrote:Thanks for the response.
The arbor item number is 555321 (Model 500 only). I don't know what the differences are between 500, and 505,510,520 ?
I guess it could be overall length, maybe? This would explain my problem.
Wrong arbor for that guard. You need to trade with drbailey. He has a 510/520 arbor (shown here) but his machine is a 500. He could use your 5/8" arbor and you could use his.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Bill F.
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Post by Bill F. »

JPG40504 wrote:The 500 arbor is indeed shorter than the 505...20 arbor.

Also be aware there are two versions of the knurled collar. The difference being the length of the end that faces the bearing(inside the quill)
Thanks for all the help!!

Is there an easy way to tell the difference? It looks like you have to buy the whole quill assembly from SS to get the knurled spindle collar.?
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Bill F. wrote:Thanks for all the help!!

Is there an easy way to tell the difference? It looks like you have to buy the whole quill assembly from SS to get the knurled spindle collar.?

Apparently so.:(

They appear occasionally on e-bay.

The 'knob' appears correct in yer first pix. The collar controls shaft end play. If yours does not move in/out, the collar is likely correct.

The collar has a longer inside face for the two bearing quill. If you had a two bearing collar on a single bearing quill, it would not go near flush with the quill housing. If the reverse were the case, the shaft end play would be excessive.

The setscrew however should be shorter. You do not want it protruding above the outer surface of the 'knob'.?(safety)

To me it is a knurled collar. SS however calls it a knob.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Bill F.
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Post by Bill F. »

JPG40504 wrote:Apparently so.:(

They appear occasionally on e-bay.

The 'knob' appears correct in yer first pix. The collar controls shaft end play. If yours does not move in/out, the collar is likely correct.

The collar has a longer inside face for the two bearing quill. If you had a two bearing collar on a single bearing quill, it would not go near flush with the quill housing. If the reverse were the case, the shaft end play would be excessive.

The setscrew however should be shorter. You do not want it protruding above the outer surface of the 'knob'.?(safety)

To me it is a knurled collar. SS however calls it a knob.
Thanks! It seems to seat snug up against the quill. There is maybe a.002-.003" gap but it is tight as I can get it, and the shaft will slide out - .004-.007" if I pull on the end. It's a little hard to measure the outward movement with the 6" calipers.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Bill F. wrote:Thanks! It seems to seat snug up against the quill. There is maybe a.002-.003" gap but it is tight as I can get it, and the shaft will slide out - .004-.007" if I pull on the end. It's a little hard to measure the outward movement with the 6" calipers.


When you 'installed' the replacement collar, did you pull out on the quill shaft to remove/minimize end play when securing the collar?


If that does not remove/minimize end play, removal of the collar and posting a pix of it be next.

Then we might need to know if you have a two bearing quill.






details details details.:)
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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