Band saw cutting metal

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jere
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Post by jere »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Also understand you can damage the bandsaw tires. The blade will get hot and it can and will cause damage. I don't know how bandsaws designed to cut metal handle the problem but I do know you have to keep an eye on the blade temp.
You can get around this problem by adding a brush to clean the blade before it gets to the tire. Some people use toothbrushes heat them up and bend them to the shape you need to fit inside the bandsaw case, and screw them in.

Also make sure to get a bi metal blade for cutting metal, no use in killing wood saw blades.

For the speed when cutting steel turn the speed all the way down and hope that is slow enough. Maybe find some pulleys and a belt and put them on the out side of the SS rather than using the SS drive shaft. You might be able to slow the speed down this way too.
jere
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Post by jere »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Also understand you can damage the bandsaw tires. The blade will get hot and it can and will cause damage. I don't know how bandsaws designed to cut metal handle the problem but I do know you have to keep an eye on the blade temp.
Metal bandsaws use slower speeds and sometimes cutting fluid systems. They also don't have rubber tires on the track wheels just a raised metal backing. At least that is the way my horizontal metal bandsaw is.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

jere wrote:You can get around this problem by adding a brush to clean the blade before it gets to the tire. Some people use toothbrushes heat them up and bend them to the shape you need to fit inside the bandsaw case, and screw them in.

. . .
How does a tooth brush cool a hot blade?;)
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jere
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Post by jere »

[quote="JPG40504"]How does a tooth brush cool a hot blade?]

:p Yeah doesn't do anything for the blade temperature wise but the brush acts as a chip brush and keeps metal shards out of the tire. Without a brush the tire have a short life.
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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

I wonder if using the Jig Saw with metal jig saw blades might be a better solution?
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

fredsheldon wrote:I wonder if using the Jig Saw with metal jig saw blades might be a better solution?
I think a hand held jig saw would be more gooder.;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
jere
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Post by jere »

A reciprocating saw of some sort will get the job done, as would a hack saw. Might need some touching up with a file or grinder later on, but they are a nice simple once in a while solution.

That said a metal cutting bandsaw cuts a lot smoother and accurate than the above and comes in handy, at least in my garage, pretty often.
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

After countless cuts with the machine set up for metal, the issues of chips in the tires are really not that dramatic of a concern. Use the machine, followed by a brass brush on the tires and a shopvacing and they are good to go. Blade tracks fine when a wood blade has been put back on.
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Jack Wilson
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Post by Jack Wilson »

Used mine today to cut 16 1/4" carriage bolt to length. It was much easier than doing it by hand.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Jack Wilson wrote:Used mine today to cut 16 1/4" carriage bolt to length. It was much easier than doing it by hand.
I would have used an abrasive cutoff wheel(disc). Roto zip likely candidate.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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