Now that's an interesting idea. I was thinking smooth shank with threads at end to hold a nut. I wonder if there is likely to be something with internal threads of the right size....JPG40504 wrote:Agreed! A screw like a saw handle retainer. Smooth shank outside, threaded internally. This small size would have to be (from a hollow rivit most likely).
I concur re the painted washers.
Those pawls MUST be free to move around the 'shaft'.
Anti-kickback device sticks
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Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- JPG
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algale wrote:Now that's an interesting idea. I was thinking smooth shank with threads at end to hold a nut. I wonder if there is likely to be something with internal threads of the right size....
http://www.boltdepot.com/Sex_bolts_Combo_truss_head_Zinc_plated_steel_Coarse_%28standard%29_thread_3_16_barrel_%286-32_thread%29.aspx
Too big but for reference,
http://www.boltdepot.com/Mating_screws_Combo_truss_head_Zinc_plated_steel.aspx?nv=rel
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
[quote="drs"]I have new Mark 7. The anti-kickbak device sticks and does not move up and out of the way when feeding wood. It causes the wood to stop and I'm not able to complete the cut. I thought about WD-40 or oil, but that would just gunk up with sawdust. Suggestions?
After reading several of the posted replies, I looked at the splitter to see that the pawl unit is too tightly fitted/riveted to allow it to move freely.
On Sunday, July 28 I sent an email to Customer Service at Shopsmith about this issue. Today, Monday, before noon, I received a call from Customer Service saying they were shipping a new upper guard, properly inspected]
Now, my new Shopsmith remains a very low-mileage model. But, what do you suppose has caused the top of the riving knife to be just a little left of center, toward the headstock?
I cannot feed a piece entirely through to complete a cut; it gets stopped by the riving knife's slight misalignment. I need to push the plastic guard to the right to allow the feed to continue.
Did I do something to cause this? The riving knife could not have warped by itself. Do I not have something installed properly? Whatever changed has happened since the replacement guard has been received from the factory.
After reading several of the posted replies, I looked at the splitter to see that the pawl unit is too tightly fitted/riveted to allow it to move freely.
On Sunday, July 28 I sent an email to Customer Service at Shopsmith about this issue. Today, Monday, before noon, I received a call from Customer Service saying they were shipping a new upper guard, properly inspected]
Now, my new Shopsmith remains a very low-mileage model. But, what do you suppose has caused the top of the riving knife to be just a little left of center, toward the headstock?
I cannot feed a piece entirely through to complete a cut; it gets stopped by the riving knife's slight misalignment. I need to push the plastic guard to the right to allow the feed to continue.
Did I do something to cause this? The riving knife could not have warped by itself. Do I not have something installed properly? Whatever changed has happened since the replacement guard has been received from the factory.
- dusty
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[quote="drs"]Now, my new Shopsmith remains a very low-mileage model. But, what do you suppose has caused the top of the riving knife to be just a little left of center, toward the headstock?
I cannot feed a piece entirely through to complete a cut]
There is an adjustment that moves the riving knife left/right with respect to the cut line. Have you made that adjustment?
I cannot feed a piece entirely through to complete a cut]
There is an adjustment that moves the riving knife left/right with respect to the cut line. Have you made that adjustment?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty is right about the adjustment screw found on in the lower saw guard collar clamp that allows one to set the riving knife relative to the blade. Get it set right with the table out of the way. Be aware that once yet get the setting right, I have found that one must apply inward pressure to the lower saw guard while tightening the collar to ensure proper registration of the set screw against the quill to get consistent alignment. In addition, if you fail to properly adjust the width of the lower saw guard so the tie-bar guard will clear it as the table is lowered, the tie-bar guard will apply downward pressure on the lower saw guard, causing rotational motion which may cause the set screw to lose its registration and move the riving knife relative to the blade.dusty wrote:There is an adjustment that moves the riving knife left/right with respect to the cut line. Have you made that adjustment?
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Thanks, Dusty. Who would have thought it would have been THAT simple. It's amazing what one can find on pages 31 and 32 of the manual….
It was a five minute fix. But, I was trying to think what would have made the change to cause it to get out of alignment. I have had the blade assembly off and on a couple of times. Maybe I moved the adjustment screw inadvertently…it does seem pretty loose. Maybe next time I have it off I'll put a little loctite on it to keep it from moving.
Thanks for helping.
It was a five minute fix. But, I was trying to think what would have made the change to cause it to get out of alignment. I have had the blade assembly off and on a couple of times. Maybe I moved the adjustment screw inadvertently…it does seem pretty loose. Maybe next time I have it off I'll put a little loctite on it to keep it from moving.
Thanks for helping.
- dusty
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That is probably what happened. Each time we reconfigure a hardware setup (with the Shopsmith) we need to be aware of these tiny issues. They are tiny if you know about them but they can become really signigicant problems if either ignored or unknown.drs wrote:Thanks, Dusty. Who would have thought it would have been THAT simple. It's amazing what one can find on pages 31 and 32 of the manual….
It was a five minute fix. But, I was trying to think what would have made the change to cause it to get out of alignment. I have had the blade assembly off and on a couple of times. Maybe I moved the adjustment screw inadvertently…it does seem pretty loose. Maybe next time I have it off I'll put a little loctite on it to keep it from moving.
Thanks for helping.
Other similar situations that come to mind are the saw arbor all the way onto the shaft, the saw arbor set screw secure, the carriage moved tight against the stop ring and then locked, the headstock lock locked, and the depth of cut (table height) lock properly secured.
I am embarrassed to admit how many times I have ripped materials only to discover that either the carriage or the headstock had moved. Fortunately for me, the only consequence has been improperly sized stock. That situation could lead to a serious kickback.
Make sure the rip fence is properly positioned and secured too.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
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Make sure it is blue locktite!:eek:drs wrote:Thanks, Dusty. Who would have thought it would have been THAT simple. It's amazing what one can find on pages 31 and 32 of the manual….
It was a five minute fix. But, I was trying to think what would have made the change to cause it to get out of alignment. I have had the blade assembly off and on a couple of times. Maybe I moved the adjustment screw inadvertently…it does seem pretty loose. Maybe next time I have it off I'll put a little loctite on it to keep it from moving.
Thanks for helping.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
a bolt is what happens when the husband comes home when the gigolo is scr--JPG40504 wrote:I need to explain the difference between a screw and a bolt(:
oh, never mind.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;