miter bar/slot worn?

[ss50th]

How about building one of these to go with your sloppy miter slots.

I thought this was "comical". Precision joints is not his objective though they could be if he would build his sled with precision..

Dusty,
That link sent me to an Outlook log in page. My apple automatically closed the page and gave me the finger.

[JPG]

takes more work to get the glue joints right.....why not start with them right??

17/1000 of a degree error is a problem?

Ya cannot set the miter gauge that accurately or repeatably.

[dusty]

My fault. Somehow I put in a link other than what I intended.

It is good to know, however, that when this happens there are safeguards.

I'll edit out the link, please do the same.

[keakap]

I agree with most everthin.
The slot's width is not consistent along its length, so adjusting the tapered bar screw then will create "snag" spots which will create rough cuts, annoyance, frustration, anger and unadjustment of the screw.
Dusty's emery fix will ease the snag thing, but then what about any other miter bars you have, on jigs, sleds, whatevah. Now you could be talkin 19 or maybe even 20 thousandths of a degree error! Zounds!

BUT, try it to see how well it works, then get in the habit of pushing your miter-gauge-guided workpiece (same with sleds) thru the cut not just from behind but from a quarter. Make up your mind ahead of time, left or right: for instance, my sled is on the right so I tend to push toward the blade, and a reminder to self is a red arrow on the back of the sled fence pointing Left.
The point is to use just one side of the miter slot.
(sound familiar? like when checking blade parallelism?)
After all, this is what you do when ripping- properly, with featherboards et al- and the table saw's excellent reputation as a ripper is possibly partly due to this.

Let the machine do the work.

{just mean to help, but is this just too simplistic?}