Cedar Strip Canoe Build

[jere]

Great work so far, reminds me of the my grandfathers cedar strip boat (has a motor not a canoe). Keep up the updates

[newportcycle]

Here is a quick photo of the first paddle glue up. I didnt take any photos of sizing the stock pretty basic stuff. Not much to look at just yet. Will post updates as they progress.

[algale]

Here is a quick photo of the first paddle glue up. I didnt take any photos of sizing the stock pretty basic stuff. Not much to look at just yet. Will post updates as they progress.

Fantastic! Cut my first couple of pairs of forms yesterday. By the end of the weekend I hope to have them all set up on the strong back and then I will post a pic or two.

[algale]

Here you go, Newportcycle: the strongback is done and the forms mounted. The stem forms are cut but not mounted yet as I debate whether to add hardwood internal and external stems which would require a modification to the plan.
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[newportcycle]

Looking good Al. When the time comes to fair the hull, be prepared for LOTS of dust.

Update on paddles. The second glue up is complete, there is a photo of them standing next to the glue up table, you can just make out the outline of a paddle on the board, helps visualize length and widths for the glue up, the centerline helps line things up later. I will need to add two strips to the hand grip end on the taller one to gain some width for the grip, just not sure if I want to use the walnut or maybe a piece of cherry.

Two of the photos show the splines in a clamping jig, these splines will be laminated to the paddle blank with epoxy, along the shaft and hand grip area. The hardwood in the spline will be centered over the hardwood center strip on the paddle blank making a cross, giving the shaft strength and minimizing weight. The wood on either side of the spline hardwood center is cedar, both will be protected with epoxy in later steps.

The last photo is the splines in the clamping jig after epoxy, I used plastic wrap to keep them separated from the clamping jig and each other while the epoxy cures. The splines were cut to 1/2" thickness and will be planed to 3/8" for fitting to the blank.

More to come.

Jerry

[algale]

Looking good Al. When the time comes to fair the hull, be prepared for LOTS of dust.

Update on paddles. The second glue up is complete, there is a photo of them standing next to the glue up table, you can just make out the outline of a paddle on the board, helps visualize length and widths for the glue up, the centerline helps line things up later. I will need to add two strips to the hand grip end on the taller one to gain some width for the grip, just not sure if I want to use the walnut or maybe a piece of cherry.

Two of the photos show the splines in a clamping jig, these splines will be laminated to the paddle blank with epoxy, along the shaft and hand grip area. The hardwood in the spline will be centered over the hardwood center strip on the paddle blank making a cross, giving the shaft strength and minimizing weight. The wood on either side of the spline hardwood center is cedar, both will be protected with epoxy in later steps.

The last photo is the splines in the clamping jig after epoxy, I used plastic wrap to keep them separated from the clamping jig and each other while the epoxy cures. The splines were cut to 1/2" thickness and will be planed to 3/8" for fitting to the blank.

More to come.

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry. Got a question for you on the stems. Gil's book shows the stems beveled to a point along about 2/3 of the form. I used the Shopsmith beltsander with the table set to 45 degrees and got a nice even bevel/point, but it doesn't look like it will be steep enough angle for the strips to lie flat. How did you handle the beveling of the stem forms?

Al

[newportcycle]

I did it with a block plane and rasp. I rough set the form, screwing it into place then took a spare strip and screwed that to a couple of forms and bent it into position only had to test it a couple of times. Where the stem meets the last form at what would be the bottom of the canoe, I had to cut this area down about 3/4", get the strips to fit where you transition from vertical to horizontal. Dont try and make the angle fit perfect to the strip it doesnt need to be, it just has to be a shallow enough angle to allow the strip to go past the end of the form, your screws will hold the strip into position. Take care in cutting the strips where they join just past the end of the stem to get them to glue up. I mis cut some and had a hole to fill, no big deal, mixed up some putty and "put it to her", it will be plenty strong enough when the stem is epoxy'd from the inside. TMI?

FYI, save as much cedar flour (sanding dust) as you can it makes a very good colorant for your epoxy later, will fill in holes or low spots, the more cedar flour in your mix the easier it is to sand. I mixed straight cedar flour for fairing compound in some sloppy spots and did it 50/50 with cabosil in others.

[algale]

I did it with a block plane and rasp. I rough set the form, screwing it into place then took a spare strip and screwed that to a couple of forms and bent it into position only had to test it a couple of times. Where the stem meets the last form at what would be the bottom of the canoe, I had to cut this area down about 3/4", get the strips to fit where you transition from vertical to horizontal. Dont try and make the angle fit perfect to the strip it doesnt need to be, it just has to be a shallow enough angle to allow the strip to go past the end of the form, your screws will hold the strip into position. Take care in cutting the strips where they join just past the end of the stem to get them to glue up. I mis cut some and had a hole to fill, no big deal, mixed up some putty and "put it to her", it will be plenty strong enough when the stem is epoxy'd from the inside. TMI?

FYI, save as much cedar flour (sanding dust) as you can it makes a very good colorant for your epoxy later, will fill in holes or low spots, the more cedar flour in your mix the easier it is to sand. I mixed straight cedar flour for fairing compound in some sloppy spots and did it 50/50 with cabosil in others.

Thanks, Jerry. Not TMI at all. I kind of figured I'd need to make the final adjustments on the fly and by hand but was hoping there was some magic solution. Shouldn't be too hard as I've got some of the material removed already.

I just installed the stems forms so the skeleton is done. Time to start milling the strips!

I will be paying close attention so as not to cut the strips short where they meet at the ends. I know one other guy with a blog who built this same model as you and I and he made the same mistake of cutting a few strips too short and used the same fix as you. Doesn't really show in the finished canoe.

If we can get a few more warm weekends (yeah Global Warming ), I may get the hull stripped before winter sets in down here. That's my goal. I don't think there's any way I will be fiber-glassing until the spring. Winter will be spent making seats, thwart, gunnels (or is it gunwales? --Maybe Shipwright will set the record straight?) so I can be done as soon as weather warms up.

Al

[shipwright]

Gunwales really but I think "gunnels" has been in the vernacular long enough to pass. :-)

Funny you should think of me. As you were typing the above post, I was making a Sketchup for you. I think it's too late for you to make use of but this is how you find the line to bevel the stem. Newport is right though. You will be fine if you err on the too sharp side and fill with epoxy. You can't get away with that on a bigger boat though.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=86e72714ff59977b3156432c7f82342

Paul M

[algale]

Gunwales really but I think "gunnels" has been in the vernacular long enough to pass. :-)

Funny you should think of me. As you were typing the above post, I was making a Sketchup for you. I think it's too late for you to make use of but this is how you find the line to bevel the stem. Newport is right though. You will be fine if you err on the too sharp side and fill with epoxy. You can't get away with that on a bigger boat though.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=86e72714ff59977b3156432c7f82342

Paul M

Thanks, Paul. I'm not sure I understand how this jig works, however. Care to give a little explication?

Al