have PORKCHOPs gotten any harder?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Nov 08, 2013 2:32 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Apology not needed IMHO!

Dusty I apologize for I must state disagreement re the cause fer de tactile feedback difference.

The porkchop does indeed press against the control sheave and cause it to move when adjusting the speed control towards slow.

Regardless of where the sheave is located the squeeze placed on the belt is the same(the angle of the sheaves is constant).

It is the belt squeezing that provides the tactile feedback.

That squeezing increases tension on the belt which causes the floating sheave to move out on the motor shaft thus restoring equal 'normal' tension.

The resultant pulley ratio change reduces the speed.

Now the porkchop moves away from the control sheave when adjusting the speed control towards fast.

Indeed the control sheave normally pushes against the porkchop all the time(that be why the button/bearing are there). The 'clip' prevents the button from rotating only(it should never be pulled by the porkchop).

As such the force of the control sheave against the porkchop assists moving the porkchop(consider it an unintended power assist!:D).

As the control sheave opening up will decrease belt tension, the spring on the motor shaft will move the floating sheave in thus again restoring 'normality'.

The resultant pulley ratio will cause the speed to increase.

Now all that sheave sliding on the shafts motion is dependent upon adequate lubrication between the sheaves and the shafts.

If the shafts are crudded up, they will not move freely/quickly and excessive force need be applied.

Tis a lack of floating sheave movement for the 'Do Not Turn the Dial Unless Running' admonition.

We already be discussing porkchop wear/distortion. Add bearing clip distortion. As I stated above, It ain't supposed to be pulled by the porkchop, but only to restrain the button from rotating.

Regardless of it's pristine condition, get Bill's tension pin replacement 'kit'.

For gracious sakes don't apologize for this disagreement. We are much too far down that road to turn back now.

Besides, I disagree with your analysis.

If there was no spring on the motor sheave (if all of the sheaves floated), an operator would hardly feel the effects of increasing/decreasing the speed.

If you relied "only" on the pressure applied to the sheaves by the belts, the sheaves would move to a point of equilibrium (a point of neutral forces).

drbailey · Post by **drbailey** » Fri Nov 08, 2013 3:14 pm

How do i release the speed dial handle

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Nov 08, 2013 3:19 pm

drbailey wrote:How do i release the speed dial handle

Start by viewing this Sawdust Session http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS117/SS117_Replacing_Speed_Changer.htm http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS117/SS117_Replacing_Speed_Changer.htm

drbailey · Post by **drbailey** » Fri Nov 08, 2013 4:27 pm

It is a allen screw, no problem. I have it apart. the motor shiv works very freely, but I already serviced it. the other shiv is dry and gumed up. the slid rail tube holes in the shop head are rough and bad gummed up. So this is a good thing cleaning and servicing.
Topic at hand, speed control. pics will tell the story
this first pic looks good, right?

now this second pic looks like light glare on the teeth. But, that is wear and bad teeth. good for awhile but I want new parts.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Nov 08, 2013 4:49 pm

dusty wrote:For gracious sakes don't apologize for this disagreement. We are much too far down that road to turn back now.

Besides, I disagree with your analysis.

If there was no spring on the motor sheave (if all of the sheaves floated), an operator would hardly feel the effects of increasing/decreasing the speed. Of course not, but it IS there - otherwise none of this would work as intended.

If you relied "only" on the pressure applied to the sheaves by the belts, the sheaves would move to a point of equilibrium (a point of neutral forces). Of course, - but again . . .

If both sheaves were 'unrestrained' by the belt and the spring and the porkchop, they would merely slide back and forth producing no change.

Adjusting the speed control would encounter a minimal back force from moving the control sheave.

So if I be in a state of confusion, what other than squeezing the belt by either sheave (control sheave squeezing the belt when decreasing speed adjustment) (floating sheave squeezing the belt when increasing speed adjustment) creates any change?

The 'squeezing' causes belt tension changes that in turn cause the belt to 'climb' the sides of the pulley. This causes the belt to pull into the opposite pulley thus opening the 'gap'.

As you mentioned an equilibrium point will be reached. Either pulley changing by sheave movement will be reflected by an opposite change in the other pulley by the movable sheave moving in the opposite direction. Since the spring is merely a reactionary force ,the movement of the control sheave really does control it all.

OVER!

moose · Post by **moose** » Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:34 pm

Beeg; To answer you specific question in #15, for a number of years, I have been using Lubriplate Motor Assembly grease. So far I have had no wear, gummies or any other problems. When I do maintenance, I clean the PC and replace the lube at that time. I would also be interested in what others use.

drbailey · Post by **drbailey** » Fri Nov 08, 2013 9:47 pm

[quote="ashbury"]Beeg]
I have been watching for a answer to Beeg's question also, I like the assembly grease idea, I have some of that. It will be easy to clean up at matenance time.

db5 · Post by **db5** » Fri Nov 08, 2013 9:56 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Truth be 'exposed', running the control through it's entire range occasionally(just before exiting the shop fer the day) will distribute the oil and help prevent crudding up. Then leave it at 'slow' setting.

Good advise.

Another question: Mine shows no wear but Bill sent me his handy-dandy super-deluxe one-size-fits-all Great American Shopsmith PC Repair Kit. Should I implement his replacement or just keep lubricating as in the past and hope for the best (Hope that there is no Change - Unlike Hope and Change)?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:15 pm

db5 wrote:Good advise.

Another question: Mine shows no wear but Bill sent me his handy-dandy super-deluxe one-size-fits-all Great American Shopsmith PC Repair Kit. Should I implement his replacement or just keep lubricating as in the past and hope for the best (Hope that there is no Change - Unlike Hope and Change)?

IIWM, I would save the GASPCRK for when the current practice results in abnormal wear. Do use it at the first sign of 'abnormal' wear.

I assume you understand the difference between 'normal' and 'abnormal'.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:39 pm

Call me simple. I find some the extra oil from the oiling (12 to 20 drops) of the control sheave bearing ends up on the quadrant and worm gear to where that is all I do to lubricate the speed control assembly at each oiling. I use a moly lube spray when assembling the speed control assembly. I do not believe you can over lube the headstock. I have found the extra oiling over time does not effect or appear to get on either of the belts to cause any problems. Yes, the extra oil will combine with the belt dust to create a crud that does not appear to cause any wear on the quadrant teeth that the lack of oiling causes.