A little challenge

[dusty]

Dusty,

If you have permanently attached the deflector to the lower saw guard using pop rivets, what do you do when you have to tilt the table to (say) 45°?

I apologize for waiting a year to answer your question.

When I was brought back to this thread I realized my oversight. I am still using the same configuration and when I need to tilt the table (which is not often) I simply change lower saw guards. The lower saw guard that belongs with my Shorty is hardly ever used because the Shorty is primarily a drill press or belt sander.

[dusty]

algale: I do not do well when trying to solve two problems simultaneously so I am going to concentrate on elimination of sawdust that escapes to the top side of the table while you work on the "flexible lower saw guard deflector".

In the meantime, I am keeping an eye open for a rubber like material that could be used in place of the accordion deflector. I like your idea but I think the hinge areas of your accordion might be points of failure.

I played with the idea of a three piece deflector that would slide open and closed but could not refine that approach (maybe because I could not bend the metal like I needed).

[algale]

algale: I do not do well when trying to solve two problems simultaneously so I am going to concentrate on elimination of sawdust that escapes to the top side of the table while you work on the "flexible lower saw guard deflector".

In the meantime, I am keeping an eye open for a rubber like material that could be used in place of the accordion deflector. I like your idea but I think the hinge areas of your accordion might be points of failure.

I played with the idea of a three piece deflector that would slide open and closed but could not refine that approach (maybe because I could not bend the metal like I needed).

Dusty:

No problem. I agree the folds of the accordion might be points of failure but I'll be surprised if it will be any time soon -- at least with the material I used.

I look forward to seeing what you come up with on the upper saw guard. Here's what I don't like about it as currently configured. First, the lack of dust collection, which I understand you are working on. Second, too much twist in the whole thing. I think this is partly because the metal that the splitter is made of is too springy which, when combined with the fact that there is a long cantilever (think that's the right term) to allow the guard to articulate, allows/causes the guard/splitter assembly to twist too easily and can in fact be pushed into the side of the blade, either when tilting the table or if the blade guard rides up on only one side of the work piece (example: trimming a cross cut that doesn't extend all the way across the width of the blade guard.

[algale]

I apologize for waiting a year to answer your question.

When I was brought back to this thread I realized my oversight. I am still using the same configuration and when I need to tilt the table (which is not often) I simply change lower saw guards. The lower saw guard that belongs with my Shorty is hardly ever used because the Shorty is primarily a drill press or belt sander.

There's enough clearance between the blade and the front lip of the lower guard that screws and nuts can be used. I used # 6-32 pan head screws to attach mine.

[dusty]

Everyone has probably already noted that I have a problem letting loose of an idea. This dust collection issue is no exception.

When you, algale, presented your accordion solution, my problem was reinstated. I have always thought that a flexible deflector was the better solution but could never come up with one.

Well, I think I now have.

A couple before and after shots before full disclosure.

[ATTACH]23200[/ATTACH],[ATTACH]23201[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]23202[/ATTACH],[ATTACH]23203[/ATTACH]

The last two shots show the results of a revised approach. Note that dust top side is still an issue.

The test was to rip small strips off the edge of a 14" piece of yellow pine to see how much dust escaped the DC3300.

[dusty]

employs an unmodified lower saw guard. The solution, instead, involves only a zero clearance insert and possibly a modified riving knife (yet to be validated).

[ATTACH]23207[/ATTACH], [ATTACH]23208[/ATTACH]

The deflector is attached to the under side of a ZCI and is reinforced with a piece of wire. With this installed, rather than the modified lower saw guard, the guard retains its' original adjustability.

[algale]

Looks promising. Waiting for the reveal.

[dusty]

Looks promising. Waiting for the reveal.

You got it.

It needs to be refined so as to not look like a total kludge job but it works.

[algale]

You got it.

It needs to be refined so as to not look like a total kludge job but it works.

I fall into the category of who cares how it looks if it really does the job, as this appears to. The proof, they say, is in the pudding.

So, at the risk of causing irritation, can you leave it place and tilt the table?

[dusty]

I fall into the category of who cares how it looks if it really does the job, as this appears to. The proof, they say, is in the pudding.

So, at the risk of causing irritation, can you leave it place and tilt the table?

I haven't tried that (YET) but I don't see why not.....except that I might have to adjust the width and the tape may interfere.

As an after thought...the ZCI is a lot easier to remove/replace than is the lower saw guard.

But, as still another after thought (this one prompted by a comment from the better half), "Why can't that dust deflector be attached to the table rather than the insert"? Hmmmm, I don't know that there is a reason.