A little challenge

Forum for Maintenance and Repair topics. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

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jmadden
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Post by jmadden »

Thanks for all the good info guys. This is great stuff. I have already made several of the modifications you have shown and seen very good results. Here is my thought. Why not add a second hose connection to the front side of the lower guard? I think running two hoses would help a lot. When I use my conical sanding disk I mount a second hose to the front edge of the lower guard with a removable clip I made. The hose does not penetrate the guard but just sits in front of it. It grabs almost all of the fine dust.
Jerry
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New Mark V 1979 (39602) with 520 upgrade 2005, Power Pro headstock upgrade 2012, Jointer 1979, Bandsaw 1998, Dust collector 2006.
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algale
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Post by algale »

jmadden wrote:Thanks for all the good info guys. This is great stuff. I have already made several of the modifications you have shown and seen very good results. Here is my thought. Why not add a second hose connection to the front side of the lower guard? I think running two hoses would help a lot. When I use my conical sanding disk I mount a second hose to the front edge of the lower guard with a removable clip I made. The hose does not penetrate the guard but just sits in front of it. It grabs almost all of the fine dust.
This is a good idea in theory. In practice, I think you will find that when the saw blade is in the table insert and ready to make saw dust, you will find that the main table post and trunnion is in the way of getting a hose into a position where it would do any good.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

jmadden wrote:Thanks for all the good info guys. This is great stuff. I have already made several of the modifications you have shown and seen very good results. Here is my thought. Why not add a second hose connection to the front side of the lower guard? I think running two hoses would help a lot. When I use my conical sanding disk I mount a second hose to the front edge of the lower guard with a removable clip I made. The hose does not penetrate the guard but just sits in front of it. It grabs almost all of the fine dust.

I agree with the idea of a 2nd hose but I may differ in where that hose should be. I have been testing with a hose on the left of the blade on the outfeed side. If the riving knife is not in place, there is a gaping hole there. Not much dust escapes from there but I see that as a good place to attach a 2nd hose with the hopes that it will disrupt that saw dust that comes to the top side of the table (riding in the gullets of the blade).

I see from your profile that you have been with us for quite some time but that you have commented much less than some of us. It is good to have new, fresh thoughts and comments. I hope that you feel comfortable joining in. It sounds as though you have some really good ideas.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:I haven't tried that (YET) but I don't see why not.....except that I might have to adjust the width and the tape may interfere.

As an after thought...the ZCI is a lot easier to remove/replace than is the lower saw guard.

But, as still another after thought (this one prompted by a comment from the better half), "Why can't that dust deflector be attached to the table rather than the insert"? Hmmmm, I don't know that there is a reason.


I do!











Tease Tease Tease:D
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

The deflector attached to the table and inserted into the lower guard would resist sliding the table away from the blade, however, if the table were raised high enough for the deflector to clear the guard, SWMBO just might be a winner(again:D)! Table tilt would still be a problem(for those with ONLY one lower guard:rolleyes:)(or insert)!

Table/insert - same, but table does not require messing with it with insert changes.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:The deflector attached to the table and inserted into the lower guard would resist sliding the table away from the blade, however, if the table were raised high enough for the deflector to clear the guard, SWMBO just might be a winner(again:D)! Table tilt would still be a problem(for those with ONLY one lower guard:rolleyes:)(or insert)!

Table/insert - same, but table does not require messing with it with insert changes.
If this latest idea works, there would be no need for a 2nd dust collector. For this idea to be a success, it would not interfere with the normal functions of the Mark V. That is the ultimate goal and often the greatest spoiler. The Shopsmith is a simple machine to maintain and use but it is a very complex design. You discover that very quickly when you mess with the status quo.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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algale
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Post by algale »

JPG40504 wrote:The deflector attached to the table and inserted into the lower guard would resist sliding the table away from the blade, however, if the table were raised high enough for the deflector to clear the guard, SWMBO just might be a winner(again:D)! Table tilt would still be a problem(for those with ONLY one lower guard:rolleyes:)(or insert)!

Table/insert - same, but table does not require messing with it with insert changes.
Good points, as usual. I think using a combination of approaches might be the best solution. A short 3/4 inch soft (flexible) shroud mounted to the insert or table and an accordion style deflector mounted to the lower saw guard.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Brain storm alert!!!!

The 'deflector' if made like a camera iris(overlapping 'sheets' that are free to slide at the top, but pivot from the bottom would both expand for wider lower guard widths and also be able to tilt with the table.

Visualize a bar(very small) across the bottom of the deflector with a hinge pin for each flat 'segment' across the bar. As the table is tilted to the right, the left most 'segment' would rise with the table and all others to a lesser varying degree with the right most actually lowering. The bar slides against a rail added to the inside of the guard from the bottom. The deflector drops behind rail when mounting the table.

Fabrication of the 'hinges' might be a challenge!

The outer sheets could have 'wings' to widen the top of the deflector.

Time for a 'center calm'! ;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Calm over!!!

The 'wings' could be utilized to provide attachment to the table(ribs - I have not looked, I be storming out of de shop).

The bottom 'bar' could include a pivot :eek: never mind the table must raise/lower. That multi-function gremlin again!:rolleyes:

The top end of the sheets need something to slide in(a groove formed by two parallel 'bars' with a gap for the sheets). Attach them to the outer(winged) sheets (and de table?).

Back to calm!;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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algale
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Post by algale »

[quote="JPG40504"]Brain storm alert!!!!

The 'deflector' if made like a camera iris(overlapping 'sheets' that are free to slide at the top, but pivot from the bottom would both expand for wider lower guard widths and also be able to tilt with the table.

Visualize a bar(very small) across the bottom of the deflector with a hinge pin for each flat 'segment' across the bar. As the table is tilted to the right, the left most 'segment' would rise with the table and all others to a lesser varying degree with the right most actually lowering. The bar slides against a rail added to the inside of the guard from the bottom. The deflector drops behind rail when mounting the table.

Fabrication of the 'hinges' might be a challenge!

The outer sheets could have 'wings' to widen the top of the deflector.

Time for a 'center calm'! ]

Interesting idea. I don't follow what would cause the raising/lowering of the segments? Downward pressure of the table?
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!

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