Just ordered mine. The standard set.
I had run across this a while back and thought it was a great idea.
I have the Incra sled and 1000 miter gauge, but this will be very handy when I want to use the SS miter for thicker pieces!
Gene, give them my best!
Be well,
Ben
Wixey suggestion
Moderator: admin
Well, coming at it from the side, sorta, my recent lawn-roller project needed 20 "staves" trimmed at 9 degrees for the cylinder. Now if I had a measurer capable of only 8,9, or 10 I wooda been in trouble, since 9 degree measured could be between 8.5 and 9.5, and that's way too much slop. Much better to interpolate between only 8.9 and 9.1, or, in the case of the Angle Cube, 8.95 and 9.05 degrees. [[Setup is band saw, tilting table, not miter gauge.]] [[and these were "white wood" boards from Lowes, sliced on band saw to 2.25". Not otherwise milled. In other words, shop scraps, sts.]]charlese wrote:DoggonnitMaybe someone here can explain why it is necessary to measure angles in 10th of degrees???
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Btw, the cylinder went together only needing a few knots and other defects flattened a tad, by plane after cutting on the band saw. Cyl = 20 facets, ~14" diam, 23" L.
Possible error of +- .5D X 40 edges = fuhgeddabowdit.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
And for some reason it just occurs to me that if the situation warrants the paranoia the measurement can be interpolated by those arrows once zeroing at the ballpark reading.JPG40504 wrote:I have observed the same 'stickey'/'repeatable' issue with the Igauge which created the same consternation.
I had not paid attention to the arrows. Thanks
Making the assumption here that the cube-in-place, turn "On" reading is accurate (which I've found it to be), and the cube then zeroed. Then minor adjustments could be tested by rocking between arrow left, arrow right, if ya get my drift.
Whew, I guess a person could turn this into a career. Thank goodness I've only had to seek this level (!) of accuracy but onct.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
Mitersets on the way
Those are such a good idea to save time in the shop.
For those of us who can get by with +/- .1 degree, the Wixey is okay.
Don't forget it can be used to verify your squares:
[ATTACH]23231[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23232[/ATTACH]
Hmm. or is that the square checking the Wixey?
And it is really handy for the jointer:
[ATTACH]23233[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23234[/ATTACH]
Whatever works!
For those of us who can get by with +/- .1 degree, the Wixey is okay.
Don't forget it can be used to verify your squares:
[ATTACH]23231[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23232[/ATTACH]
Hmm. or is that the square checking the Wixey?
And it is really handy for the jointer:
[ATTACH]23233[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23234[/ATTACH]
Whatever works!
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35598
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Am I correct that the wixey has magnets only on the 'bottom'?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Aha, I had that same thought when I saw the pics. I'm used to just sliding the Angle Cube over to the fence and lettin the side magnets grab it.JPG40504 wrote:Am I correct that the wixey has magnets only on the 'bottom'?
But that's too easy. "Cause then you've got the Cube stuck to the table and stuck to the fence. And I'm usually too paranoid to let it go at that, so I unstick it from the table and stick it to the fence. So I might as well have just the one set of magnets on the bottom anaway.
Still, it is this one circumstance that makes me happy the Cube has 1/20th rather than the 1/10th degree resolution. I brook no hanky panky when it comes to Jointer square.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
another Wixey (or other) use
I had a need to mortise a long piece that was connected in a frame (please don't ask why I didn't mortise before glueing it in a frame
).
To be sure that I was really aligned with the jig surface I set the Wixey on the jig
[ATTACH]24021[/ATTACH]
and then placed it out on the stile
[ATTACH]24022[/ATTACH]
Easy to make any adjustment to get the 2 readings the same.
Mortises came out nice.
Forrest
To be sure that I was really aligned with the jig surface I set the Wixey on the jig
[ATTACH]24021[/ATTACH]
and then placed it out on the stile
[ATTACH]24022[/ATTACH]
Easy to make any adjustment to get the 2 readings the same.
Mortises came out nice.
Forrest
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser