SS Mark V starts and spins a little then stops
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- rcplaneguy
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 549
- Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:33 pm
- Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Ryjones you hit the jackpot with that headstock - it's 1993 so it has the 2 bearing quill and the larger hand hole in the casting. However things don't appear lined up in the picture, the belt is all wrong.
You should update your profile to show location to see if you have any owners nearby who could spend a little time with you.
Here's some more material that will be of help: http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... eaning.pdf
You should update your profile to show location to see if you have any owners nearby who could spend a little time with you.
Here's some more material that will be of help: http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... eaning.pdf
JC
Hampden Twp, PA
Bought, restored and sold a 520 before I knew what I had (and should have kept) - Now I found religion and I'm working on restoring a 500 and a 10E.
Hampden Twp, PA
Bought, restored and sold a 520 before I knew what I had (and should have kept) - Now I found religion and I'm working on restoring a 500 and a 10E.
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ryjonesacct
- Silver Member
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sat Nov 09, 2013 11:50 pm
- Location: Salt Lake City, UT
I updated my location I'm in the Salt Lake City area of Utah. After watching the Sawdust Session on replacing the drive train, I think I can handle it, but do you think I need to go through a full disassemble and cleaning? Just going off the written document makes me nervous, I feel much better when I can watch a video of someone else first.enyoc wrote:Ryjones you hit the jackpot with that headstock - it's 1993 so it has the 2 bearing quill and the larger hand hole in the casting. However things don't appear lined up in the picture, the belt is all wrong.
You should update your profile to show location to see if you have any owners nearby who could spend a little time with you.
Here's some more material that will be of help: http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... eaning.pdf
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
You can handle it!ryjonesacct wrote:I updated my location I'm in the Salt Lake City area of Utah. After watching the Sawdust Session on replacing the drive train, I think I can handle it, but do you think I need to go through a full disassemble and cleaning? Just going off the written document makes me nervous, I feel much better when I can watch a video of someone else first.
Go slow. Stop if it doesn't feel right! Ask questions if you can't proceed! You are not alone in this.
As good as that machine looks - it will be a piece of cake.
NO HAMMERS. Finesse not Force
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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ryjonesacct
- Silver Member
- Posts: 17
- Joined: Sat Nov 09, 2013 11:50 pm
- Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Thanks for the Encouragement Dusty, Is there anything else I should be looking for or doing while I replace both belts? The link from Enyoc suggested a more in depth disassemble and cleaning.dusty wrote:You can handle it!
Go slow. Stop if it doesn't feel right! Ask questions if you can't proceed! You are not alone in this.
As good as that machine looks - it will be a piece of cake.
NO HAMMERS. Finesse not Force
I ordered the two belts, are these ever available to find locally or on Amazon? I am anxious to get started, but I want to wait until I have the new belts to put on. 5 to 7 days seems like such a long time.
This is an excellant example of why I use a 3/4" OD body washer on the screw that keeps the eccentric bushing within the headstock casing. I have seen a few of these problems. The original washer will not stop the idler shaft from coming out the headstock if the eccentric bushing set screw loosen after some belt tension has been appilied with the eccentric bushing. I also use a 1/4" long knurl-grip cup point set screw (5/16" OD?) in the eccentric bushing. You need a new Poly-V belt and find a 3/4" OD washer for the screw. You will have to remove the idler shaft to replace the belt.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
I sent you a PM on this subject. Thanks.ryjonesacct wrote:Thanks for the Encouragement Dusty, Is there anything else I should be looking for or doing while I replace both belts? The link from Enyoc suggested a more in depth disassemble and cleaning.
I ordered the two belts, are these ever available to find locally or on Amazon? I am anxious to get started, but I want to wait until I have the new belts to put on. 5 to 7 days seems like such a long time.
Bill Mayo
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
- rcplaneguy
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 549
- Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:33 pm
- Location: Chapel Hill, NC
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Bill implied this, but your idler shaft and bearing is coming out of the headstock. That is why the poly-v belt is too far back. That and insufficient tension on the poly-v belt(maybe).
To replace the poly-v belt, you will have to remove the main shaft and the idler shaft.
So essentially you will be doing almost a complete tear down. The entire speed control is easily removed(one setscrew and three screws and it all comes out.
So a complete refurb might as well be done.
This may help.
There may be some minor differences from your headstock. I cannot tell from your pix if you have the newer idler shaft bearing.
To replace the poly-v belt, you will have to remove the main shaft and the idler shaft.
So essentially you will be doing almost a complete tear down. The entire speed control is easily removed(one setscrew and three screws and it all comes out.
So a complete refurb might as well be done.
This may help.
There may be some minor differences from your headstock. I cannot tell from your pix if you have the newer idler shaft bearing.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange