How to brighten Aluminum?
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How to brighten Aluminum?
Hi All,
Some of the handles on my SS are pretty dull. Is there a trick / formula to brighten them? What have other people done?
I am in the midst of the rebuild, stripping the paint from the machine parts. One leg, one caster assy, and one end casting are almost completely bare. The lower tubes are repainted, along with the clamp bars. The second leg is being stripped now.
Do the aluminum parts need to be primed before painting, or can I just go direct to the hammer on paint?
Thanks for all of the help, I really appreciate it!
Some of the handles on my SS are pretty dull. Is there a trick / formula to brighten them? What have other people done?
I am in the midst of the rebuild, stripping the paint from the machine parts. One leg, one caster assy, and one end casting are almost completely bare. The lower tubes are repainted, along with the clamp bars. The second leg is being stripped now.
Do the aluminum parts need to be primed before painting, or can I just go direct to the hammer on paint?
Thanks for all of the help, I really appreciate it!
The first thing I'll do is point you to MickyD's restoration thread: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3078
It's a very long thread, but almost every aspect is discussed in detail including the two things you asked about - polishing and painting.
But to cut to the chase, polishing the aluminum handles to a mirror finish is a multi step process of sanding with increasingly fine sandpaper, then polishing with cloth wheels and polishing compound. But you can get them shiny with just a little sanding.
For painting aluminum, a self etching primer is recommended. I think I tested painting parts primed and not primed and didn't notice any difference in adhesion of the hammered paint, but did notice a difference in the hammered appearance. I think the hammered effect was more dramatic on the primed pieces, and smoother on the non primed. But it was a long time ago and I don't recall specifically. It's been a few years now and I can't tell you which parts were or weren't primed.
It's a very long thread, but almost every aspect is discussed in detail including the two things you asked about - polishing and painting.
But to cut to the chase, polishing the aluminum handles to a mirror finish is a multi step process of sanding with increasingly fine sandpaper, then polishing with cloth wheels and polishing compound. But you can get them shiny with just a little sanding.
For painting aluminum, a self etching primer is recommended. I think I tested painting parts primed and not primed and didn't notice any difference in adhesion of the hammered paint, but did notice a difference in the hammered appearance. I think the hammered effect was more dramatic on the primed pieces, and smoother on the non primed. But it was a long time ago and I don't recall specifically. It's been a few years now and I can't tell you which parts were or weren't primed.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
If you have a buffing wheel you can buy the stick polish in various grades. The white and brown grades polish Aluminum. An 8 inch wheel is best. I have mine mounted on another lathe specifically for buffing. You can get cloth wheels and buffing compound at Harbor Freight and Tools: http://www.harborfreight.com/# or try this page: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... g+compound buffing them with a motor is your quickest solution. If you want to hand polish them I have a polish called Bluemagic Mental Polish Cream. You might try it or another brand that you can find at any automotive store. For that matter, you can find the stick polishes at automotive stores and buffing wheels too.
WmZiggy
williamz@aol.com
"... and it was after long searching that I found the carpenter's chest, which was indeed a very useful prize to me, and much more valuable than a ship loading of gold." Daniel Defoe, Robinson Crusoe, 1719
williamz@aol.com
"... and it was after long searching that I found the carpenter's chest, which was indeed a very useful prize to me, and much more valuable than a ship loading of gold." Daniel Defoe, Robinson Crusoe, 1719
I have been using a 8" fine brishel wire brush to remove the rougher surface on aluminum before going to the final sanding and buffering for a polish outlook. I had really good results with the hammered paints by using a self etching primer gray from Eastwood products which is on sale right now for $11.99.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Thanks for the help
Thanks a lot for all of the help. Right now I am leaning toward painting the aluminum castings after priming with a self etching primer, and possible painting the handles too. Although, the aluminum castings may look cool without any paint on it at all....
I noticed the other day that one of the handles buffed up nicely with a scotchbrite pad and some wd-40. I may try making a flapper wheel out of a scotchbrite pad and try that this next weekend.
On a machine rebuild (for work) I cleaned up some holes using a drill bit with a scotchbrite pad taped to it. It worked really well to remove paint, gunk, and rust. So I may try that for some of the holes, unless there is a better idea floating out there.
thanks again!
I noticed the other day that one of the handles buffed up nicely with a scotchbrite pad and some wd-40. I may try making a flapper wheel out of a scotchbrite pad and try that this next weekend.
On a machine rebuild (for work) I cleaned up some holes using a drill bit with a scotchbrite pad taped to it. It worked really well to remove paint, gunk, and rust. So I may try that for some of the holes, unless there is a better idea floating out there.
thanks again!
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
For aluminum handles/knobs, I use a fine to medium 8" wire brush. The whitish oxide is easily removed, and they will look decent. More aggressive brushing will go deeper and result in cleaner, but slightly duller appearance. Get really aggressive and you will be creating cavities.
I prefer knobs that look 'nice', but are not so polished that they be slippery.
I prefer knobs that look 'nice', but are not so polished that they be slippery.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Wirebrushing
Tried the wire brush last night and it worked pretty well. We have a can of this paint: "Steel-it" and I thought I might try that as well. Actually, I would like all of the handles to be red. Not sure why...JPG40504 wrote:For aluminum handles/knobs, I use a fine to medium 8" wire brush. The whitish oxide is easily removed, and they will look decent. More aggressive brushing will go deeper and result in cleaner, but slightly duller appearance. Get really aggressive and you will be creating cavities.
I prefer knobs that look 'nice', but are not so polished that they be slippery.
It's your machine. Do what you want! Part of the reason for my custom paint job was to "make it mine."
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration