Main Table Alignment to the Blade

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Do you consider table to blade alignment something to be avoided?

Poll ended at Wed Dec 25, 2013 7:15 am

I have no strong opinions on this matter. I'll do whatever is necessary.
9
15%
I have no strong opinions on this matter. I'll do whatever is necessary.
28
46%
I have no strong opinions on this matter. I'll do whatever is necessary.
6
10%
I have no strong opinions on this matter. I'll do whatever is necessary.
4
7%
I have no strong opinions on this matter. I'll do whatever is necessary.
14
23%
 
Total votes: 61

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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

dusty wrote:Table movement is not really a problem unless you are attempting to do precision work. By precision I mean accuracy to within 1/64" or closer.

I believe that you need to assume that settings will change by as much as .008" to .010" as the result of system flex and the impact of the locks.

Now we can agree!!!!!!!
Ed in Tampa
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Ed in Tampa wrote:Now we can agree!!!!!!!
Opps, I walked right into that. Does that mean that the party is over? I don't think so. Yes there is some flex (( unwanted movement) but that happens under pressure. The critical measurements return so acceptable when the pressures are removed.:rolleyes:
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dusty
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Main Table Alignment Verification, Using a Dial Indicator.

Post by dusty »

I am short and being short often introduces situations that can become frustrating. Doing table alignment to the blade has been one of those situations. I could not always see the dial gauge to read the indications accurately.

I solved that problem this morning. The neighbors may be mad because I was out there pretty early but they have been mad before.

I used a piece of wood from the cut off pile and I repurposed some parts from the Tenon Master (which I hardly ever use).

Problem Solved.:)

[ATTACH]23401[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]23402[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]23403[/ATTACH]

I positioned the dial indicator contrary to what I thought I had planned. I wanted the indicator to point straight up (12 o'clock) when touching the blade. I made some pains taking measurements to make that happen and I still missed the mark by thousandths. BUT - I can read the dial when it is pushed to the back of the blade. Before, I had to walk around to the other side to make that observation.

By the way, Ed, there was no tweaking done to get these images. That is how my table sets after being reconfigured several times for this little project (table tilted, jointer employed, drill press used, etc). Just barely within my .005" self imposed criteria.

The weight of the parts from the Tenon Master along with the bulk of the block of wood provides some stability to the fixture that I did not have with the previous set up. A miter bar that fits just a little bit more snugly in the miter track would also help tighten the specs.
Attachments
Dial Indicator 001 (Custom).JPG
Dial Indicator 001 (Custom).JPG (42.93 KiB) Viewed 1254 times
Dial Indicator 002 (Custom).JPG
Dial Indicator 002 (Custom).JPG (65.38 KiB) Viewed 1254 times
Dial Indicator 003 (Custom).JPG
Dial Indicator 003 (Custom).JPG (63.08 KiB) Viewed 1254 times
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algale
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Post by algale »

Good solution to an annoying problem; but I thought you had sworn off using a dial indicator for checking alignment.:confused:
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I just reread an older thread about this same topic. My self imposed criteria may not really be self imposed. I have undoubtedly been subliminally influenced by Nick.

Sure do miss that guy. I have not had contact with him in many moons. I hope all is well.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

[quote="algale"]Good solution to an annoying problem]

I sorta did but my alternate methodology has not proven to be reliable. I need a plate to mount to my arbor (ie, Master Plate) that is both stiffer and more precise than a saw blade or sanding disc.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

dusty wrote:A miter bar that fits just a little bit more snugly in the miter track would also help tighten the specs.
How about laying a piece of paper over the slot, then lay the miter bar on top of the paper. That should take up the slop.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

beeg wrote:How about laying a piece of paper over the slot, then lay the miter bar on top of the paper. That should take up the slop.

It does do that, beeg. The slop can be measured at about .004". A little bitof side pressure works too and with the additional weight that my new jig provides, I am hoping that I have "overcome".:)

Thanks for the feedback.
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ryanbp01
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Post by ryanbp01 »

I've always used an engineering square or an oriental square for table alignment. Earlier I read about 1/64" or closer being acceptable in this thread. What does that translate to in .001s of inches. I'm nowhere near a calculator.
BPR
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

ryanbp01 wrote:I've always used an engineering square or an oriental square for table alignment. Earlier I read about 1/64" or closer being acceptable in this thread. What does that translate to in .001s of inches. I'm nowhere near a calculator.
BPR

Are we really becoming addicted to the computer that bad? I don't think so. I certainly hope not.

There is a thing called long division. It is done with a piece of paper and pencil.

The answer (provided by my computer) to your question , however, is 1/64th = .015625.
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