Why does the finish not dry?

[drl]

I made five pizza cutter handles a few weeks ago and used Minwas Fast Drying Polyurethane clear gloss (water based) as a finish. At that time it took like a day before I could put on additional coats. My sister requested a cutter so I turned a handle out of cocobolo. It is an oily wood so I wiped it down with lacquer thinner before applying the finish. It has been six days since my first coat and it still is tacky. Airconditioned enviroment. Even had it under a 100 watt bulb for awhile. Right now I'm suspecting that the finish is old? I do not recall the date I purchased it but I'm sure it's a least five years old. Anyone run into this. Can says it should be ready for a light sanding and additional coats after 3-4 hours.

Next question: Any ideas on how to remove the old tacky finish? I'm sure it will clog up sandpaper in no time. I have nothing to lose so I could try warm water as a solvent but I thought I get some expert opions first.

Regards,
Dwight

[dgale]

This is a complete guess but maybe an oily wood doesn't mix well with a water based finish? Might want to remove the water based poly and try a standard oil-based poly instead (?)

[nuhobby]

Interestingly I've sometimes had oil-based Minwax stain-coats stay tacky a long time. One time I decided, what the heck, I'll overcoat it with shellac. That actually did function as a good seal-coat.

[charlese]

Or- after sanding off ll of the old finish, put on a coat of shellac. Then apply your water based finish. I guess it could be possible that the driers in your old finish evaporated in the can. Recommend you contact the company thst made the finish.

[drl]

My pizza handle project got put on a back burner for awhile but I have gotten back to it with results.
I removed the tacky "fast-drying" poly with hot water and a scotch-brite pad. Finsih sanded to 600 grit and cleaned the cocobolo piece with naphtha. I purchased a fresh can of Minwax Fast-Drying poly and applied a thin coat. It was still tacky after 4 days even under a lamp. I again removed the finish as above and sprayed the handle with shellac. I used the new can of poly and I'm now satisfied with the result. So thanks for the shellac seal coat suggestion. I had read about oily woods having a problem with finishes but wiping the piece down with naphtha or alcohol just before applying the finish was to take care of that issue. Live and learn!

Regards,
Dwight.

[drl]

For some reason my latest post to the pizza handle drying problem did'nt get in to "New Posts" folder. So read above my final outcome.
Regards,
Dwight

[beeg]

For some reason my latest post to the pizza handle drying problem did'nt get in to "New Posts" folder.

I want to say that YOUR new posts don't show up for you(09/20/13). But it does for everybody else.

GREAT ya got the problem solved and it only took a little wipe down with naphtha, then the seal coat of shellac.

[reftech]

I have heard using mineral spirits on oil wood works as well, the hitch is the water based poly. I was going to suggest a sellac seal coat before the poly. Glad it worked out 4 ya

[keakap]

This is a complete guess but maybe an oily wood doesn't mix well with a water based finish? Might want to remove the water based poly and try a standard oil-based poly instead (?)

This sounds a bit like Watco Danish Syndrome. Directions say flood surface, wait 30 minutes, wipe off excess. The oil soaks in during the flooding, then after the allotted time won't soak no mo.

If the Wipe is timely one is left with a virtually dry (to the touch) surface. But at least here on The Rock with our usual humdidity, if not wiped, the piece will dry unaided in approximately 4-1/2 years. The stuff don't dry, it soaks in. The rest, feeling pique at having been abandoned out on the exposed surface I suppose, morphs into a semi-liquid version of double-sided carpet tape.

A fix if ya catch it in time is to reflood with the oil, wait the 30 or less minutes and wipe off excess vigorously. Good luck. Otherwise plan on removing 1/32 of surface with tools or papers you can afford to throw out. At least this way you'll end up with a "pre-finished" surface.