Release The Tension
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- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I think the ss BS is prone to the arm bending, but not likely so with smaller blade tension. Keeping tension on a 5/8" blade could strain the arm.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Yep I ALWAYS release the tension. Sometimes to quickly and I have to retension it for another cut later.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Bandsaw Blade Tension Adjustment
I found it helps to bore a round hole in the cover over the bandsaw tension adjustment and attach a clear plastic like (1/8" plexi-glass) piece behind the hole. I use screws or pop rivits to hold this plastic window, gluing did not work for me. Then I bore a hole in the side of the cover for the allen wrench to be inserted for the tension adjustment. I found this to be a quick project that is worth the time to accomplish. I do use a post-it note to myself on the cover each time when I release the tension.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
I don't know if this is a factor with this at all or not but there are a huge number of "fake facts" floating around in most occupations.
I once owned a tire and battery shop where I did other work as well. My god there is a lot of BS floating around the automotive trades. Somebody "decides" that something is "possible" then after a period of self delusion they start quoting it as fact. It's about like saying that since the rooster crows when the sun comes up that the rooster caused the sun to come up...
Usually only the rooster is dumb enough to believe that...
But I have known otherwise good mechanics that fell for a lot of pretty dumb crap and swear by it.
I had a nice chat with my cardiac surgeon, who has some common sense and a sense of humor, when he released me from the hospital. He is the one that I asked the day before surgery "if he was any good?"
(he told me that the guy he had done that morning was still alive)
He was talking that day about all of the mythology that has sprang up about the surgery and the recovery. One example is all the instructions I got from support people about how I should never raise both arms above my head at once. I was told that if I was putting on a tee-shirt that I should only raise one arm at a time never both (during the recovery period). The surgeon then held both hands above his head and shook them saying "You CAN do this"...
He also talked about the silly warnings about going out to do anything when temps were below 45 degrees... He said "What do you do if you moved to Alaska and needed a bypass? Never go outside at all?"
It has been my observation that an awful lot of these supporting groups get really good at "expanding" the nature of their jobs... YMMV...
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I once owned a tire and battery shop where I did other work as well. My god there is a lot of BS floating around the automotive trades. Somebody "decides" that something is "possible" then after a period of self delusion they start quoting it as fact. It's about like saying that since the rooster crows when the sun comes up that the rooster caused the sun to come up...
I had a nice chat with my cardiac surgeon, who has some common sense and a sense of humor, when he released me from the hospital. He is the one that I asked the day before surgery "if he was any good?"
He was talking that day about all of the mythology that has sprang up about the surgery and the recovery. One example is all the instructions I got from support people about how I should never raise both arms above my head at once. I was told that if I was putting on a tee-shirt that I should only raise one arm at a time never both (during the recovery period). The surgeon then held both hands above his head and shook them saying "You CAN do this"...
He also talked about the silly warnings about going out to do anything when temps were below 45 degrees... He said "What do you do if you moved to Alaska and needed a bypass? Never go outside at all?"
It has been my observation that an awful lot of these supporting groups get really good at "expanding" the nature of their jobs... YMMV...
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I just scanned my BS manual and did NOT see any instruction re relieving the tension after each use.
I did see mention of 1/8" blades slipping off the wheel after using a 1/2" or 5/8" blade(cant diminished).
I did see mention of 1/8" blades slipping off the wheel after using a 1/2" or 5/8" blade(cant diminished).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- 2centsworth
- Gold Member
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- Joined: Wed Oct 16, 2013 4:35 pm
- Location: Georgetown, TX
5 Reasons Why
5 Reasons to release the tensions: If left on
1) creates a blade hump
2) distorts wheel bearings
3) flattens rubber tires
4) stresses the saw frame
5) strains blade welds
Quoted from the article.
Sounds good to me. But what do I know.
1) creates a blade hump
2) distorts wheel bearings
3) flattens rubber tires
4) stresses the saw frame
5) strains blade welds
Quoted from the article.
Sounds good to me. But what do I know.
Jerry Penny
2centsworth
The Woodlands, Tx
SS 520 SN#518424 2000 (reversed motor), Shopsmith 10 E (shorty) fully restored by Skip with DC motor, Shopsmith 10 ER fully restored by Skip with DC motor, Shopsmith 10 ER (under going restoration), Greenie Shorty sanding station, Greenie Mini jointer station, SS Bandsaw power station, SS Planner, SS overhead pin router, SS Belt Sander, SS Strip Sander,, SS Jigsaw, SS Dust Collector, Ringmaster, and still having fun looking for more !
2centsworth
The Woodlands, Tx
SS 520 SN#518424 2000 (reversed motor), Shopsmith 10 E (shorty) fully restored by Skip with DC motor, Shopsmith 10 ER fully restored by Skip with DC motor, Shopsmith 10 ER (under going restoration), Greenie Shorty sanding station, Greenie Mini jointer station, SS Bandsaw power station, SS Planner, SS overhead pin router, SS Belt Sander, SS Strip Sander,, SS Jigsaw, SS Dust Collector, Ringmaster, and still having fun looking for more !
Ditto, I thought. But more work than worth? So I drilled a hole for the 5/32 Shopsmith Tool Kit in the cover, and when done for awhile with the bandsaw I just stick the ol' 5/32SSTK in there and back off 4 turns for the 1/2 or three turns for the 1/4 blades. Don't need to see the gauge, and I put 2 Dymo labels on the cover nearby saying "4 Off for 1/2 " Blade" and above it "3 Off for 1/4" Blade".robinson46176 wrote:...Now if my SS bandsaw had the access hole for the wrench and the window to see the tension gauge ....
When I return to use the B/S I can easily double-check myself by testing the blade flex between blocks (at max height). Haven't missed yet.
I've pretty much decided that it probably doesn't really matter a lot. Also decided that drilling that one wee hole and the 13.5 seconds of time to adjust the gauge is definitely not going to hurt anything, no probably, no pain, no worry, no sweat.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
2centsworth wrote:5 Reasons to release the tensions: If left on
1) creates a blade hump Not likely
2) distorts wheel bearings Really not likely
3) flattens rubber tires Very possible
4) stresses the saw frame But no strain
5) strains blade welds Stress yes strain no
Quoted from the article. Read farmer's post above.(#14)
Sounds good to me. But what do I know.
1)Bending the blade over a small radius creates 'humps', 5" is not a small radius.
2)Really hardened steel?
3)Yes rubber distorts under pressure.
4)I think the frame can handle it(SS arm is another matter).
5)See # 1(small radius).
But But But It certainly will not hurt(unless ya fergit to tension it before turn on:eek:).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Hi,
Put me on the un-tension side of the fence. My other bandsaw which is from the early 70's and has been with me from before my shopsmith era. The tires use to need replacing quite often, when I mentioned this at the woodworking group someone asked if I left the tension on. I said yes because that is what I was doing. The suggestion was to stop it.
Later I got out the manual and sure enough hidden within was the insturction to do the un-tension. I still forget sometimes but that is just a few times and more often then not I remember shortly afterwords. The last tires have been on 3 times longer then before and still going strong. The major change was the un-tension after use. That alone makes it worth it to me (remember the last time you had to change tires, wasn't that fun??).
A couple of years back I added a shopsmith band saw to my shop. I paid less then $100 for it and then did some upgrades and I'm sure it came out costing less then $200 when I was done. I added a hole to be able to adjust the tension from outside, added a window so I could see where the tension was set and lots more ideas shared by the group. You can see that thread here:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=8361
For those who don't want the window that's fine but it is a really simple change to make and can't hurt. Keep in mind the gauge is a good starting point but sometimes you might want to adjust from that point and that can mess up your counting method....
And yes I still un-tension. I seem to recall reading that as pointer somewhere in the shopsmith documentation, PTWFE, manual (several versions of these) or perhaps a note on the back of the blade package???? I don't feel like looking now but I'm sure I've seen it somewhere.
Hey if you don't feel like an un-tension person that is fine by me. It all OK.
Ed
Put me on the un-tension side of the fence. My other bandsaw which is from the early 70's and has been with me from before my shopsmith era. The tires use to need replacing quite often, when I mentioned this at the woodworking group someone asked if I left the tension on. I said yes because that is what I was doing. The suggestion was to stop it.
Later I got out the manual and sure enough hidden within was the insturction to do the un-tension. I still forget sometimes but that is just a few times and more often then not I remember shortly afterwords. The last tires have been on 3 times longer then before and still going strong. The major change was the un-tension after use. That alone makes it worth it to me (remember the last time you had to change tires, wasn't that fun??).
A couple of years back I added a shopsmith band saw to my shop. I paid less then $100 for it and then did some upgrades and I'm sure it came out costing less then $200 when I was done. I added a hole to be able to adjust the tension from outside, added a window so I could see where the tension was set and lots more ideas shared by the group. You can see that thread here:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=8361
For those who don't want the window that's fine but it is a really simple change to make and can't hurt. Keep in mind the gauge is a good starting point but sometimes you might want to adjust from that point and that can mess up your counting method....
And yes I still un-tension. I seem to recall reading that as pointer somewhere in the shopsmith documentation, PTWFE, manual (several versions of these) or perhaps a note on the back of the blade package???? I don't feel like looking now but I'm sure I've seen it somewhere.
Hey if you don't feel like an un-tension person that is fine by me. It all OK.
Ed
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Fer the record, I
release the tension.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange