Free motor refurb, rewire, reversal.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Tue Dec 17, 2013 7:09 pm

sorry, was a duplicate.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Tue Dec 17, 2013 7:26 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]Pack it well!!!!!!!]

I did this for years but was a lot of work and additonal shipping costs. I use the USPS large flat rate box inside a second large flat rate box. Solid foam at the sheave end and on the sides. No peanuts or air bags. The 4 layers of box cardboard on top and bottom of motor was all I used in that area. The box will be somewhat rounded on the top and bottom however the USPS personal has always accepted thls box. I have handled about a dozen motors this year packed like this with out any damage. I will continue to use this packing method for motors until I see damage from the shipping. It only costs around $20 including tracking and insurance to use this method.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:07 pm

joshh wrote:I sent you a PM with my address. This is the first one I'm converting to 230V (though it shouldn't be that different so I'll post an update once I'm in it and have JPG check it before I fire it up

I do plan on making the voltage externally selectable.

When you unsplice the run windings(they will be connected in parallel) do keep track of which wires paired up.

When connecting for 120V, they need to be paired up the same.

When connecting for 230V, they need to be 'phased' the same(If originally spliced Aa and Bb(AB is one coil, ab is the other), then a connects to B and 230v is applied across A and b.

I cannot check that you have done this correctly 'after the fact'.

Also the start circuit will only be connected across one of the run windings(the start circuit will still be a 120V circuit).

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:52 pm

JPG40504 wrote:When you unsplice the run windings(they will be connected in parallel) do keep track of which wires paired up.

When connecting for 120V, they need to be paired up the same.

When connecting for 230V, they need to be 'phased' the same(If originally spliced Aa and Bb(AB is one coil, ab is the other), then a connects to B and 230v is applied across A and b.

I cannot check that you have done this correctly 'after the fact'.

Also the start circuit will only be connected across one of the run windings(the start circuit will still be a 120V circuit).

Very true, only 120 VAC for the start windings. If you get any phases backward for any combination of input voltages and coil winding hookups, you will most likely get an electrical lockup on the rotor. This is quite noisy and loud so you will notice it immediately to stop appling power.

joshh · Post by **joshh** » Wed Dec 18, 2013 12:02 pm

So, what color wires do y'all recommend using? I assume there is some standard.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Dec 18, 2013 12:56 pm

joshh wrote:So, what color wires do y'all recommend using? I assume there is some standard.

Nope!

I suggest the following:

1)White wire common to both the start circuit and one end of a run winding.

2)Black wire common to both the other end of the start circuit and the other end of the run winding.

3)Yellow to run winding originally spliced to (1).

4)Blue to run winding originally spliced to (2).

5)Red to start winding.

6)Red with tracer to other end of start winding.

7)Red to start circuit where (5) was originally connected.

8)Red with tracer to start circuit where (6) was originally connected.

In the diagram below, C = (1), B = (2), D = (3) and A = (4)

[ATTACH]23463[/ATTACH]

This is of a GE 3/4 HP motor with start relay. The start circuit will vary with other motors, but will consist of a series circuit containing the capacitor, the start switch, and the run windings, but the order may vary.

Originally run 2 wires(A,D) were connected to run1 wires(B,C). As shown in green for 115V.

If no start relay, ignore the relay coil and terminals(5,2,1).

To reverse, flip the start winding wires.

The diagram does not match the wire colors above for the start winding and start circuit(red,red').

The blue,black,yellow,and white wires can have connectors attached to allow external voltage selection(observe male/female orientation shown).

Very important!!!!!!

This is primarily for joshh's benefit.

.............................................................

EDIT:

These colors were an arbitrary selection by me.

To match information supplied by Bill Mayo below, the colors need to be changed to:

1)Blue
2)White
3)Orange
4)Yellow
5)Black
6)Red

And to reverse rotation, flip red and black

joshh · Post by **joshh** » Wed Dec 18, 2013 1:19 pm

THANK YOU! That's exactly what I was after.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Wed Dec 18, 2013 1:29 pm

joshh wrote:So, what color wires do y'all recommend using? I assume there is some standard.

Yes, this is a standard NEMA motor wiring diagram that I use when rewiring motors:
[ATTACH]23464[/ATTACH]

I could not attach this file so I added it. The color numbers match the above wiring diagram:

Check the motor winding connections diagram found on the back of the terminal plate cover. Diagrams can become illegible with age but the terminals are numbered or color-coded based on the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) Standard

Color Code for Motors.
NEMA Standard Motor Terminal Color Coding
Terminal number Color
1 Blue
2 White
3 Orange
4 Yellow
5 Black
6 No color assigned
7 No color assigned
8 Red
P1 No color assigned
P2 Brown

Connect the motor for high voltage. Connect L1, the black, or "Hot," circuit wire to terminal No. 1. Connect L2, the white, or "Neutral," circuit conductor to terminals 4 and 5 or terminals 4 and 8 depending on the desired direction of rotation. Connect terminals 2, 3 and 8 together for counterclockwise (CCW) rotation or connect terminals 2, 3 and 5 together for clockwise (CW) rotation. These connections are made with either push on terminals or small nuts. In the case of push on terminals, use the needle nose pliers to make up the connections. In the case of studs with nuts, use the nut drivers to remove and replace the nuts. Nut drivers have a hollow shaft, allowing the stud to slip up inside the shaft.

Connect the motor for low voltage. Connect L1 to terminals 1, 3, 6 and 8 and L2 to terminals 2, 4, 5 and 7 for CCW rotation. Connect L1 to terminals 1, 3, 5 and 7 and connect L2 to terminals 2, 4, 6 and 8 for CW rotation.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Dec 18, 2013 11:47 pm

I edited my previous post to reference Bill's post re wire colors.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Thu Dec 19, 2013 9:59 am

JPG40504 wrote:I edited my previous post to reference Bill's post re wire colors.

Thanks JPG40504. I really appreciate you keeping track of my posts and filling in more details when I post responses. Many times, actions that are second nature to me may not get covered in some of my responses. I am trying to do the "Paul Harvey" type responses lately but can still be missing some important details. My memory is slowly disappearing now so I really do need this additional attention. 90% of the material in my responses are from my thousands of computer files and pictures that I had saved in recent years. My poor naming of some of these files and pictures makes collection information together on a specific subject difficult for me at times. Thanks.