Main Table Alignment to the Blade

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Do you consider table to blade alignment something to be avoided?

Poll ended at Wed Dec 25, 2013 7:15 am

I have no strong opinions on this matter. I'll do whatever is necessary.
9
15%
I have no strong opinions on this matter. I'll do whatever is necessary.
28
46%
I have no strong opinions on this matter. I'll do whatever is necessary.
6
10%
I have no strong opinions on this matter. I'll do whatever is necessary.
4
7%
I have no strong opinions on this matter. I'll do whatever is necessary.
14
23%
 
Total votes: 61

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

benush26 wrote:Okay that settles it. No more thinking! :p :p I still plan to laze around in bed :D , but clearly I am not thinking clearly (or have WAY too much nonsense to consider while dozing :D ), especially early in the morning. It's probably a good thing I don't drink coffee :eek:

Bill and Dusty (if you do replace your table threads will heli-coils), I'd be curious to know if doing that keeps the table aligned (both after moving and due to use) for a longer period. My M7 made it out and when I checked it, it was well within "my" accepted tolerances, but will check it in a few month to see how well it has faired.

Thanks to all who entered in to my hi-jacking discussion!:D Common sense. What a wonderful concept. Any chance we could get more of the world to try it?:rolleyes:

Be well,

Ben

I would be thrilled ifn de folks in D.C. acquired some(a lot).



Oh Oh Oh How about we require the sponsors of any bill read(out loud in chambers) their legislation and all members stay to hear it being read(in it's entirety) prior to being voted upon.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
jere
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Post by jere »

I don't like the play in the table on my SS. the table really needs triangulated with maybe a second SS table that is attached. just pushing one the factory table fully locked down you can watch it flex.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

jere wrote:I don't like the play in the table on my SS. the table really needs triangulated with maybe a second SS table that is attached. just pushing one the factory table fully locked down you can watch it flex.
Why would you push the ss by applying force to the table?

Would you push a car by applying force to an open door?
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

JPG40504 wrote:Why would you push the ss by applying force to the table?

Would you push a car by applying force to an open door?
Because the table is handy to touch and at the right height for my hand to push the Shopsmith. I find the table will return to its original position once I quit pushing on the table. If you can bend or deflect the way tubes or the table legs or the table top doing this, then something was not tight. 3" casters really help ease the Shopsmith movement when using the table to move it.

If you never got stuck in a car rut by yourself, then you would have no need to be pushing on the car door. However, growing up around red mud, lots of rain and light snow in the winter, I have to many times, placed a hammer or other heavy object on the gas pedal and got out of the car and start pushing using the door. Less mud on me when using the door. Sometimes even to the back of the car. Once the car started moving again, I could get back inside the car before it got going too fast. Never had a car get away from me doing this and I did it many times back in the mountains of VA.

Please do not take me too seriously for this should be a happy time of the year.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
jere
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Post by jere »

JPG40504 wrote:Why would you push the ss by applying force to the table?

Would you push a car by applying force to an open door?
I don't mean roll it around the room by pushing on the table, but just as a way to see the flex. the flex could show up when working with a large or heavy piece of wood or some other situation who knows.
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reible
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Post by reible »

jere wrote:I don't mean roll it around the room by pushing on the table, but just as a way to see the flex. the flex could show up when working with a large or heavy piece of wood or some other situation who knows.
Hi,

Yes there is "flex" there is also ways of dealing with it. I don't know if you have read the rest of the thread and the branches or side bars but if you go back to read them all I think you might have a better understanding of the system.

The link in post 10 was some of my early work here on the forum and is worth the time to check out.

Ed
jere
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Post by jere »

thanks Ed I didn't know for sure those branches helped with the issue of play\flex. that is good to know. it would still be nice not to have to deal with the problem at all. I know the problem has cost ss some business over the years. one contractor I talked to said he couldn't take the ss seriously due to the table saw not cutting true enough. I didn't question him further but I assume flex was his issue.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

jere wrote:thanks Ed I didn't know for sure those branches helped with the issue of play\flex. that is good to know. it would still be nice not to have to deal with the problem at all. I know the problem has cost ss some business over the years. one contractor I talked to said he couldn't take the ss seriously due to the table saw not cutting true enough. I didn't question him further but I assume flex was his issue.
I would not give that statement any credibility at all. I'll not go into detail again, as I have done so many times before but the Mark 5/V is as accurate and as repeatable as any non-professional table saw on the market.

Comparing it to professional table saws (Unisaw, Powermate, SawStop) it would probably not win but it would give them a run for their money.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

dusty wrote:I would not give that statement any credibility at all. I'll not go into detail again, as I have done so many times before but the Mark 5/V is as accurate and as repeatable as any non-professional table saw on the market.

Comparing it to professional table saws (Unisaw, Powermate, SawStop) it would probably not win but it would give them a run for their money.

"Operator errors" are rampant among contractors... :rolleyes:
Like most occupations there is "the good, the bad and the ugly"... :) Some are so bad I don't see how they even stay out of jail. Then again there are a lot of real artist there too.

A daughter-in-law's ex-stepfather (how is that for a title) ran framing crews. He helped with my son's large house addition. He was one of the best framers I ever worked with on a project...
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
jere
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Post by jere »

dusty wrote:I would not give that statement any credibility at all. I'll not go into detail again, as I have done so many times before but the Mark 5/V is as accurate and as repeatable as any non-professional table saw on the market.

Comparing it to professional table saws (Unisaw, Powermate, SawStop) it would probably not win but it would give them a run for their money.
if you think I am fabricating a conversation feel free to look around the internet with a Google search you will find plenty of others with similar issues. I have no reason to to lie about something so meaningless. I like my shopsmith as much as any of you but they do have limitations no point in denying the fact. its better to find the flaws and fix them
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