mgdesigns wrote:That looks like a very neat package, indeed. But the questions I have as a SS noobie:
1) Why?
2) What are the advantages?
3) Speed Range 0-??
4) HP?
5) Cost of this modification?
6) Ramifications?
One other question: Does this system bypass the intermediate shaft entirely, since speed control looks like it's being done at the bottom?
#1: To substitute electronic maintenance reliability issues for the frequent maintenance requirements of the sheaves(equally expensive if not done often).
#2 To get a lower speed range.
#6+: No! 1) There is no v-belt pulley on the main shaft.
...............2) You need the additional speed and location of the idler shaft for the jointer.
I leave it for those who have tried, to answer the rest.(or to elaborate on/correct these)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I am not an electronics expert and just tried these parts and was pleasantly surprised that they work together. YMMV!
For the benefit of Acronym challenged member(s), YMMV ???? (You Must also be Mindful of the peak inverse Voltage rating???)
This one is for you Mike!!!:D
And me!;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
See what happens when ya ask a question(indirectly)!
Ya learn new stuff!
Fortunately the bucket ain't full yet!:D
Trouble is it ain't gots a lid(stuff spills out and needs 'reinsertion').
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
greg1m53 wrote:jpg
I would like to use a dc treadmill motor on my 10 er
All the motors I see don't have v belts on them how did you convert over
Thanks
greg1m53 wrote:jpg
I would like to use a dc treadmill motor on my 10 er
All the motors I see don't have v belts on them how did you convert over
Thanks
I used several different ways to get the treadmill motor power to transfer to the 10ER and the Mark V.
The treadmill uses the same grooved pulley that Shopsmith uses for the Poly-V drive. Foe one setup, I took the Mark V Poly-V drive sleeve pulley and machined the inside diameter to fit the 10ER pulley shaft. I believe the diameter was 13/16". You can buy the "J" 9 groove belts and the "J" 9 groove pulleys but they are not too cheap. I took several treadmill flywheels with the intregated pulley and machined the pulley area to 13/16" OD where I used the 3 step upper 10ER pulley on the flywheel shaft. I used a link belt on this pulley arrangement. This allowed me to keep the 3 step 10ER pulleys and move the treadmill motor for belt tension. This was what I keep for the 10ERs. The cost was much more reasonable doing it this way as I machined the flywheel on my metal lathe. I had to make some motor mounts for several treadmill motors to fit on the 10ER but over half of my treadmill motors had a flat base motor mount for bolting to the 10ER. I still have a few 90 VDC & 180 VDC motors along with 110 & 220 VAC DC controllers stored for many years now so I do not know if anything works now. I will have to find them again. Maybe some day I will have to drag them out and test them again.
You need to keep the treadmill flywheel in all cases. many of the flywheels have cooling fins on the back of the flywheel that are needed. Please contact me if any questions as I may remember more details.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
greg1m53 wrote:jpg
I would like to use a dc treadmill motor on my 10 er
All the motors I see don't have v belts on them how did you convert over
Thanks
Who? Me? I did not do that!:D
Bill or Skip is likely yer best bet.
Better yet, 'power pro'. Ignore this!!!!!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Reviving this old thread. Just wanted to thank all the folks for suggestions on this way of getting slow speed, variable speed and reverse on the cheap. My solution was to use an old trolling motor powered by a lawn tractor battery. Pulleys shown are 1 in. and 8 in. Segmented belt is from Harbor Freight. It's a very tight fit at the way tubes! I am using the PTO shaft to drive the headstock, but it's a little too slow, so I'll experiment with using the aux. shaft and/or a smaller pulley on the SS.
Ken
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2014-10-24 15.07.52.jpg (264.1 KiB) Viewed 6922 times
(You Must also be Mindful of the peak inverse Voltage rating???)
Ignore this!!!!!