What is the footprint (for planning purposes)

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harveydunn
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Post by harveydunn »

Thanks everyone - keep 'em coming.

Ive got an electrician coming on Friday to assess the condition of my wires. I'm really glad you pointed out to me that that even if I stay with household current I might need some changes.

stumpbuster, great pics, thanks. Is that the jigsaw attachment on the center of the that shelf? I've been wondering why it has been discontinued - anyone know?

Also: as I understand it, the bandsaw can be a stand-alone unit or it can be mounted on the SS frame. Which I guess means it has its own motor. If you start out with the attachment and later want to convert it to free-standing, is that possible?
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

harveydunn wrote:Thanks everyone - keep 'em coming.

Ive got an electrician coming on Friday to assess the condition of my wires. I'm really glad you pointed out to me that that even if I stay with household current I might need some changes.

stumpbuster, great pics, thanks. Is that the jigsaw attachment on the center of the that shelf? I've been wondering why it has been discontinued - anyone know?

Also: as I understand it, the bandsaw can be a stand-alone unit or it can be mounted on the SS frame. Which I guess means it has its own motor. If you start out with the attachment and later want to convert it to free-standing, is that possible?


The Shopsmith band saw does not have its own motor. It is driven either by the Mark V headstock using a power coupler or by a motor in the "Power Station" or by a motor in the "Power Stand".

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/bandsaw.htm

or

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/powerstation.htm

or

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/sptpowerstands.htm

If you are thinking about using a band saw on other than the Mark V, I would recommend the Power Stand. The Power Station is larger, more expensive and noisy. The Power Station does offer variable speed but if powering the band saw is your only objective you do not need variable speed.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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harveydunn
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Post by harveydunn »

Thanks Dusty. I'm thinking of buying a Mark 7. I want the more powerful headstock and also the more flexible frame.

If you buy a bunch of things (bandsaw, jointer, planer) and intend to mount them onto the Mark V or 7 to use them, to they include a storage stand or fixture to keep them upright when they are on the shelf?
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ChrisNeilan
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Post by ChrisNeilan »

The accessories do not come with anything to store them on. They sell the stand separately or you can easily fabricate one.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Are you aware of this?

And this? Used for either storage or as a mount on a power stand(included with a stand as well as pulleys etc.).

So many questions is normal. Keep on coming!:)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
goldeneagle
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SS footprint

Post by goldeneagle »

This past Fall I converted a 10x12 foot storage building into my "sawdust therapy room!". I upgraded my 510/520 to the Power Pro. I ran 220 from my house because I put in a 220v base board unit for heat and wanted to use the 220 for the SS. I have a light table, 4 foot Home Depot work bench, SS extra power unit, SS accessories- belt sander, strip sander, band saw, joiner, plus a large chop saw, portable planer and 2 wall cabinets that I repurposed back to back for a storage/work table, and a dust collector. All that in 120 sq. feet presents a creative challenge to work in the space, but everything is on wheels and in nice weather I can roll the SS outside for large item work.
I ran the 220 myself, it is efficient heat and the SS runs sweet on it!
Good luck & enjoy making sawdust!
:) “So I became a newspaperman. I hated to do it but I couldn’t find honest employment.” —Mark Twain
redleg
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Power Pro demo in Raleigh, NC

Post by redleg »

I went to the Power Pro demo yesterday and was happy to see that there were 8-10 people in attendance. A few were just passing Lowes customers but most seemed genuinely interested even if not buying. I had seen the demo guy last year when I bought mine and he again gave an excellent demo. The demo can be seen Friday and Saturday also.

http://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/event_schedule.htm

From the demo it was mentioned the Power Pro only needs 2 amps to actually start but the chart below shows 15 amps @120V or 7 amps @ 240V.

http://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/specs.htm
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I believe the point he was making was that there is no power surge when it starts. This is quite different from typical induction motors which pull a significant current surge at startup causing dimming lights etc.. I believe the chart info is the currant drawn at 'rated' mechanical power output.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:I believe the point he was making was that there is no power surge when it starts. This is quite different from typical induction motors which pull a significant current surge at startup causing dimming lights etc.. I believe the chart info is the currant drawn at 'rated' mechanical power output.
That might well have been his point but I seriously doubt that the peak startup current is only 2amps.

Hell, mine only draws 7amps and I got a video to prove it.:rolleyes:

BTW, I have sold a couple automobiles in my like time too.:)
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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reible
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Post by reible »

I think one needs to figure out what "start up" is on the powerpro. When you flip the switch it "powers up" but is not running. The next step is to have it turning but that can only happen after it "boots" up. You get the idea right?

Since we have no idea of speed or load conditions one could be starting at 250 rpm with nothing attached, I'd guess this would be the minimum current condition and even then how are we measuring "peak" current?????

All this is pretty meaning less when you think about it. You do not plan your shops electrical using the minimum current draw of the shopsmith.

I have a watt meter that cost me less then $20, I would never expect it to give me a true peak current but some warmer day I will plug it in and see what it does show me. If someone else wants to beat me to it be my guest.


Ed

dusty wrote:That might well have been his point but I seriously doubt that the peak startup current is only 2amps.

Hell, mine only draws 7amps and I got a video to prove it.:rolleyes:

BTW, I have sold a couple automobiles in my like time too.:)
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