Bad Motor Bearings and a question.

paulrussell · Post by **paulrussell** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:27 am

My headstock had started to have a high pitched whine that didn't vary in pitch with speed adjustment, causing me to believe it was motor bearings.

Removed the main belt and the squeal was still there. Removed the two sheaves (sparing you the portion of the story containing much swearing, consternation, and a retaining clip gone airborne never to be seen again). Still squealing.

So time to take the motor out. Any swearing up to this point was nothing compared to getting the four phillips head motor mount screws out. One came out, the second stripped and took extensive work with vise grips to remove. The last two went straight to vise grips since there was no way I was going to replace them with a phillips head. Today I picked up a set of 1/4-20 hex head screws. I wanted button head, but the ones at my local hardware store had smaller button caps than I cared for.

Got the motor out and disassembled, and sure enough one of the bearings was hard to turn and had a distinct rumble.

Now I know a lot of you would have ordered bearings and replaced them yourselves, but not having an arbor press or bearing pullers, I opted to take the arbor shaft it to an electric motor repair shop, where it will be ready tomorrow with new bearings (about $70).

Anyway, there was liberal application of grease inside the motor housing at both bearing locations -- is this correct? I would have thought additional grease to be bad because of sawdust sticking to it.

What is the proper lubrication to the motor when reassembling?

garys · Post by **garys** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:29 am

I'd ask that question to the guys at the motor shop. Put it back together as they recommend and you should have good luck.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 11:18 am

Just curious, were you using a #3 phillips screwdriver?

Use anti seize compound on the motor pan screws.

Grease in the bearing socket 'bottom', but not on the side facing the armature.

You did not state which brand motor, but sparingly oil the moving parts of the start switch actuating mechanism.

Be advised the the inverse retaining clip is not typically available(the spreader rings are internal, not on external tabs).

You need to watch Nick replace the spring etc. in the saw dust session before starting more swearing and clip(and spring) launching.

There is nothing else to lubricate other than retaining screw threads.

paulrussell · Post by **paulrussell** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 12:04 pm

Alas, I own no #3 phillips, so yes, I was guilty of screw abuse.

I also forgot to say which motor I have. It is a black one.

Ok... it is an Emerson 1 1/8hp.

Much thanks JPG, you validated my best-guess on proper lubrication.

JPG40504 wrote:Just curious, were you using a #3 phillips screwdriver?

Use anti seize compound on the motor pan screws.

Grease in the bearing socket 'bottom', but not on the side facing the armature.

You did not state which brand motor, but sparingly oil the moving parts of the start switch actuating mechanism.

Be advised the the inverse retaining clip is not typically available(the spreader rings are internal, not on external tabs).

You need to watch Nick replace the spring etc. in the saw dust session before starting more swearing and clip(and spring) launching.

There is nothing else to lubricate other than retaining screw threads.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 1:13 pm

paulrussell wrote:Alas, I own no #3 phillips, so yes, I was guilty of screw abuse. A common situation.

I also forgot to say which motor I have. It is a black one.Like that response!

Ok... it is an Emerson 1 1/8hp.

Much thanks JPG, you validated my best-guess on proper lubrication.

The phillips screw(s) were designed to cam out under excessive torque.

Hence the different sizes for different torque requirements.

I use an impact driver for stubborn screws(works better with phillips screws since it stays centered). It is simply an arbor(to hold the bits) with a bi-sloped end that rotates (bi-directional) when the body is struck with a hammer. I will see if I can locate one on line. Return shortly.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 1:39 pm

I think I will be going to HF soon!

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

Nice looking set!

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 3:22 pm

JPG40504 wrote:I think I will be going to HF soon!

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

Nice looking set!

Excellant tool. I use mine quite frequently and have been for many years. Get a set of 3/8" drive socket long shaft allen wrenches as I find this tool is outstanding for loosen and tighten allen head set screws on the Shopsmith. At least the 3/32", 5/32" & a 1/4" allen socket wrenches. A #3 screwdriver socket bit for the motor pan screws really comes in handy for removing the motor from the motor pan. Use the tool to tighten these screws too. Just twist in the direction you want to turn the screw or bolt and hit the tool with a bald peen hammer until the screw or bolt moves or you are happy with with the resulting tighten. You can get enough torque with this tool to break the screw or bolt, so be careful.

paulrussell · Post by **paulrussell** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:48 pm

Ok, the retaining clip is nowhere to be found. I suspect it is in orbit above the earth. What would be the downside of using the more common external clip vs the inverted clip?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 8:22 pm

paulrussell wrote:Ok, the retaining clip is nowhere to be found. I suspect it is in orbit above the earth. What would be the downside of using the more common external clip vs the inverted clip?

Assuming you have the cup spring retainer, the tabs will need to be bent to fit into the recess in the end. If a washer retains the spring, whatever fits will work. I think you likely have the cup.(latest version)

paulrussell · Post by **paulrussell** » Fri Jan 17, 2014 7:47 pm

Got the rotor back today with new bearings. While the headstock was out of commission I did some other fixes including reconditioning the speed control quadrant https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=13926 and cleaning and lubing darn near everything with the appropriate materials.

Now my headstock hums like a well-oiled machine. Probably because it _is_ a well-oiled machine.