Cold Weather
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Cold Weather
Hi everybody, A newbie here. Picked up my SS last weekend, rearranged the garage to create a home for it, went to cut a piece of wood and it did not want to run. Tried a little and hummed, then popped GFI. Tried it a couple times. I was getting cold and it was the end of the day so I just finished up and figured I would run a dedicated line to it as my next step. Last night I was reading through the manual and I saw under trouble shooting something about the shop being less than like 65 degrees. Well, yes it sure is, pretty cold right now up her in Michigan. Is this going to be a problem? Never dreamed that could be a problem. If this is a summer only tool it probably is going back on Craigslist.
My 510 has run with temp well below freezing. Kinda slow getting started but never popped a breaker.cantputt wrote:... something about the shop being less than like 65 degrees. ....
Make sure the speed dial, you did not say what model you have, is set to a slow speed. That is the best way to start. Install the sanding disk and hand turn the spindle while 'slowly' adjusting the dial to a slow setting. Do not try to adjust the speed dial without the spindle turning:eek:
See what happens.
Dan
thanks, yes I did reach for the speed dial at one point yesterday when it was off but then remembered not to. I read about spinning the sanding disk last night also.
Searches are not showing this to be a big issue either. I'm guessing I just have a little power problem. It ran out very well before I dropped the cash in the sellers hand. Probably something simple I overlooked.
Searches are not showing this to be a big issue either. I'm guessing I just have a little power problem. It ran out very well before I dropped the cash in the sellers hand. Probably something simple I overlooked.
WHEN was the last time it was oiled?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I doubt that being below 65° is your current problem. Why, I don't know. I just doubt that it is. I often run mine when it is cold.cantputt wrote:Hi everybody, A newbie here. Picked up my SS last weekend, rearranged the garage to create a home for it, went to cut a piece of wood and it did not want to run. Tried a little and hummed, then popped GFI. Tried it a couple times. I was getting cold and it was the end of the day so I just finished up and figured I would run a dedicated line to it as my next step. Last night I was reading through the manual and I saw under trouble shooting something about the shop being less than like 65 degrees. Well, yes it sure is, pretty cold right now up her in Michigan. Is this going to be a problem? Never dreamed that could be a problem. If this is a summer only tool it probably is going back on Craigslist.
If it has set for a long time, it may just need to be lubricated. When you install the sanding disk, use it to spin the drive shaft a few revolutions. If you can do that, it tells you that the belt is not bound up between the sheaves. Doing that also flexes the belt a bit. When doing this, try to get the speed dial to high speed and then spin the sanding disk. You should feel significantly less resistance to being spun. It should be easier to turn at high speed than at low speed.
When you apply power and it just hums, don't let it hum but for a couple seconds. Allowing it to hum (not turn) will create problems that will cost money to repair.
Good Luck. Keep us involved.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
IF the speed control was set to near fast when it was 'transported' to your garage, the motor belt may have dropped down and gotten stuck between the control and idler sheave.
That condition will make it 'impossible' to get it set to slow. You would be mashing the belt between the sheaves.
Assuming all that is correct, first try adjusting the speed towards fast. Fortunately the pulleys do not need to be rotating so the stuck belt will not interfere. Once it is set to 'fast' then attempt rotating with the sanding disk.
Assuming it now rotates 'normally' set the speed back to near slow.
IF that was the problem, it should now start normally.
The belts likely have taken a set and coldness will exacerbate the vibration due to those out of round belts. Automotive belt dressing will help that.
IF that did not clear up the problem, internal peering is next(aka picture taking and posting time).
Which model did you get?
Welcome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That condition will make it 'impossible' to get it set to slow. You would be mashing the belt between the sheaves.
Assuming all that is correct, first try adjusting the speed towards fast. Fortunately the pulleys do not need to be rotating so the stuck belt will not interfere. Once it is set to 'fast' then attempt rotating with the sanding disk.
Assuming it now rotates 'normally' set the speed back to near slow.
IF that was the problem, it should now start normally.
The belts likely have taken a set and coldness will exacerbate the vibration due to those out of round belts. Automotive belt dressing will help that.
IF that did not clear up the problem, internal peering is next(aka picture taking and posting time).
Which model did you get?
Welcome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
P.S. If you leave the sanding disc on , it will greatly increase the time the motor takes to start up. A low house power test fer sure!;) The aluminum disk is less so.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Would a big warm welcome to the forum help? Either way you got it.
I'm in IL and it is not all that warm here either. While I've never managed to find an actual low temperature limit on most tools I personally tend to think of 55 and above as a shop temperatures. I find that as a combination of having the tools themselves operating as well as me being able to tolerate working with them. Keep in mind shop safety, gloves, and bulky clothes can be a no no.
Now it is interesting that the GFI went out, I guess the assumsion is that that problem was still with over-current and not a ground fault????
Are you in the UP or mitten?
If you don't mind adding more information to your profile a hint at your location might help you and another local user find each other, and solve issues together.
Ed
I'm in IL and it is not all that warm here either. While I've never managed to find an actual low temperature limit on most tools I personally tend to think of 55 and above as a shop temperatures. I find that as a combination of having the tools themselves operating as well as me being able to tolerate working with them. Keep in mind shop safety, gloves, and bulky clothes can be a no no.
Now it is interesting that the GFI went out, I guess the assumsion is that that problem was still with over-current and not a ground fault????
Are you in the UP or mitten?
If you don't mind adding more information to your profile a hint at your location might help you and another local user find each other, and solve issues together.
Ed
cantputt wrote:Hi everybody, A newbie here. Picked up my SS last weekend, rearranged the garage to create a home for it, went to cut a piece of wood and it did not want to run. Tried a little and hummed, then popped GFI. Tried it a couple times. I was getting cold and it was the end of the day so I just finished up and figured I would run a dedicated line to it as my next step. Last night I was reading through the manual and I saw under trouble shooting something about the shop being less than like 65 degrees. Well, yes it sure is, pretty cold right now up her in Michigan. Is this going to be a problem? Never dreamed that could be a problem. If this is a summer only tool it probably is going back on Craigslist.
Do NOT continue to try to start the motor if it hust hums. Doing so WILL burn out the motor windings. The belts may be stuck in the sheaves or the start switch inside the motor is clogged with the debris.
Clean the interior of the headstock with a vacuum and or some compressed air to clean out any sawdust.
Then try to start it again and if it hums turn it off IMMEDIATELY.
You may want to try installing the sanding disc on the main spindle and the turn the disc by hand. If it turns easily then the mechanical stuff is most likely OK. If you still have problems check back here for more info.
And bye the way, WELCOME!!
Bill V
Clean the interior of the headstock with a vacuum and or some compressed air to clean out any sawdust.
Then try to start it again and if it hums turn it off IMMEDIATELY.
You may want to try installing the sanding disc on the main spindle and the turn the disc by hand. If it turns easily then the mechanical stuff is most likely OK. If you still have problems check back here for more info.
And bye the way, WELCOME!!
Bill V
Thanks for the welcome.reible wrote:Would a big warm welcome to the forum help? Either way you got it.
I'm in IL and it is not all that warm here either. While I've never managed to find an actual low temperature limit on most tools I personally tend to think of 55 and above as a shop temperatures. I find that as a combination of having the tools themselves operating as well as me being able to tolerate working with them. Keep in mind shop safety, gloves, and bulky clothes can be a no no.
Now it is interesting that the GFI went out, I guess the assumsion is that that problem was still with over-current and not a ground fault????
Are you in the UP or mitten?
If you don't mind adding more information to your profile a hint at your location might help you and another local user find each other, and solve issues together.
Ed
Yes, the whole GFI popping was weird. I will check it out some more.
In the mitten, between GR and Lansing.
I'll look over the profile stuff some more.