Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
dusty wrote:If you are looking for tight and repeatable tolerance when doing the blade to miter slot alignment, you need to deal with the miter bar slop. Once you have done that, keeping your Mark 5/V aligned to within .005" is a piece of cake.
skou wrote:"Excuse me now, I need to do some measuring and checking to see if this soapbox is still exactly square..."
Frances, this goes down as the quote of the month! (If not quote of the year!)
Yes, I'll be using it. Yes, (if I remember) I'll be giving credit, where credit is due.
(Oh, side note, if you have as much mass as I do, it's not exactly square any more. Period!):D
steve
I have plenty of mass and in the interest of safety my soapbox is only an inch tall.
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
robinson46176 wrote:I have plenty of mass and in the interest of safety my soapbox is only an inch tall.
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How tall was it before you climbed onto it?:eek:
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:How tall was it before you climbed onto it?:eek:
1.57643"
I am a bit lighter than I was a few years ago. At one point I hit about 330. Then I lost 60 lbs. Then when my dicky ticker slowed me down I gained 10 lbs. back. Since the surgery I have lost that 10 lbs. plus an additional 8 to 10 lbs.
I recently saw a cute line that said something like "I resolved to lose 30 lbs. I still have 40 lbs. to go..."
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
dusty wrote:If you are looking for tight and repeatable tolerance when doing the blade to miter slot alignment, you need to deal with the miter bar slop. Once you have done that, keeping your Mark 5/V aligned to within .005" is a piece of cake.
I agree and I think the Woodpecker round cylinder is the best way to deal with the miter bar slop. The cylinder goes into the miter slot until there is no more slop then it stops. No adjustment no messing around. No need to push or pull on it. Nothing.
And all of us can make one out of a wooden dowel 1" to 1 1/2" in diameter.
Just mount a way to hold the dial indicator to it and you have a way to measure as accurate as any adjustable miter bar or pressure type method.
robinson46176 wrote:I agree but I'll go one step farther... Why a feeler gauge? If you use the Allen wrench but can't tell the difference between touching and not touching how is knowing exactly how much in decimal numbers it is off going to help. Nowhere on the trunions is the mounting marked off in decimals... Please note Ed that I am not just picking on you. You just mentioned the feeler gauge. Its just that some of you guys have way too much time to tinker.
Am I gonna have to repost the picture of the hatchet with a dial indicator taped to it again?
Just line the thing up the way Shopsmith said to 50 years ago and start cutting wood.
If I want to cut a miter I don't get silly with checking everything over and over. I make the basic setting then make a test cut and see if it fits right. If not I tweak it until it does... If it fits it doesn't matter what any "readings" are.
I guess some of you enjoy the battle more than the war (I would rather "just make something" and move on) and that is OK but I just worry that all of the newbies coming here will get the false impression that they have to have all of this fancy measuring crap in order to operate these machine that apparently need to be re-aligned every 5 minutes since it seems they are so crappy that you can't use them if you don't.
Excuse me now, I need to do some measuring and checking to see if this soapbox is still exactly square...
I totally agree and where were you when I was taking all the gas because I said using a dial indicator to adjust the table is over kill?
Nice guy let me get beat into submission from all the dial indicator guys and never say a word and then when I'm finally plummeted so bad I begin to talk goofy and mention dial indicator or feeler gauge you use me as the bad example.
I would hate to go into battle with you I think you shoot your wounded!:D