aline gauge which one

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:39 pm

[quote="keakap"]Aha- this looks like the perfect place for a "woodworkers'" shim, under the outboard cylinder. ["woodworkers' shim"-- coated card stock, flexible, dirt & water repellent, inexpensive, extremely consistent and accurate, come 52 to a box (plus a couple jokers) for just a few bucks].
]

My thoughts exactly. Or even a piece of paper.

However I would almost wager that the slots in the table are parallel to the miter gauge slot so it would not matter if the outboard got tangled up with them.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:01 pm

I have a collection of those free ID cards and/or credit cards that come in the mail from time to time. The plastic cards are the best thing I've found for fitting wood drawers.

Also a set of brass blocks are used daily. You know, the ones that are of different sizes. 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". Side by side, or by themselves, they will give me the measurements I need.

Also I use a pre-cut wood block or piece when I want another the same size.

Mechanic's feeler gauges are also available, but hardly ever used.

The very best measuring tool I made that is used to determine squareness of drawers or cases is a pair of sliding sticks with pointed ends. All that's needed is two 1/4"x1/2" sticks with pointed ends and a slot in the center that allows a two bolts and wing nuts.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1251064492
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1251092185

BuckeyeDennis · Post by **BuckeyeDennis** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:52 pm

charlese wrote:I have a collection of those free ID cards and/or credit cards that come in the mail from time to time. The plastic cards are the best thing I've found for fitting wood drawers.

Also a set of brass blocks are used daily. You know, the ones that are of different sizes. 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". Side by side, or by themselves, they will give me the measurements I need.

Also I use a pre-cut wood block or piece when I want another the same size.

Mechanic's feeler gauges are also available, but hardly ever used.

The very best measuring tool I made that is used to determine squareness of drawers or cases is a pair of sliding sticks with pointed ends. All that's needed is two 1/4"x1/2" sticks with pointed ends and a slot in the center that allows a two bolts and wing nuts.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1251064492
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1251092185

Aha! You do measure things!

And you seem very comfortable with non-standard measurement units (e.g. CCT's -- one Credit-Card Thickness

). I'm guessing that you prefer measuring instruments that minimize the arithmetic required? Nothing wrong with that! The simpler the process, the better -- faster, more reliable.

Q: How do you drive an engineer completely insane?
A: Tie him up to a chair, stand in front of him, and fold up a road map the wrong way.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:43 pm

[quote="BuckeyeDennis"]Aha! You do measure things!

And you seem very comfortable with non-standard measurement units (e.g. CCT's -- one Credit-Card Thickness ]

What'sa 'road map'?:D

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 6:11 am

[quote="BuckeyeDennis"]Aha! You do measure things!

And you seem very comfortable with non-standard measurement units (e.g. CCT's -- one Credit-Card Thickness ]

Yes, he does measure things. That is what a story board is. A measuring device using non-standard units of measure.

onevw · Post by **onevw** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:20 am

OK
I have finally decided which gage is the best one to have.

I now know its the one thats looks the coolest because the results and benefits provided by these units are not repeatable or these shopsmith machines can not hold these tolerances.

Also I ask for forgiveness for using the work "peckerwood" in a earlier post. I was not aware of the origin and what this word has come to mean in our society.

Rick B

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:53 am

[quote="BuckeyeDennis"]Aha! You do measure things!

And you seem very comfortable with non-standard measurement units (e.g. CCT's -- one Credit-Card Thickness ]

and I would wager there is a coin or few of various (standard) values (dimensions) in the collection. A penny at least.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 12:41 pm

[quote="BuckeyeDennis"]Aha! You do measure things!

And you seem very comfortable with non-standard measurement units (e.g. CCT's -- one Credit-Card Thickness ]

Oh Sure! I do measure stuff with a ruler, however, as taught in high school wood class, Feeling is a lot more accurate than eyeing.

One of the most inaccurate ways to determine size of a piece of wood is to measure with a ruler on that piece and transfer that size to the wood with a sharp pencil - then saw/cut. A ruler and a pencil is most valuable in measuring/cutting of the rough size.

Arithmetic is very valuable in the shop to set up rough sizes.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:03 pm

onevw wrote: . . .

Also I ask for forgiveness for using the work "peckerwood" in a earlier post. I was not aware of the origin and what this word has come to mean in our society.

Rick B

Really? Who gives a rats heine?;)

algale · Post by **algale** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:42 pm

I find that my Shopsmith holds its blade to slot parallelism for significant periods of time. I also have no problem getting repeatable readings on a dial indicator. Suggest you check to ensure all way and bench tubes have been securely tightened and that you have engaged the table lock, carriage lock, quill lock, and headstock lock. Also, it is a well known phenomena that the table can be twisted and if you are leaning on or over the table during the measurements they will go all over the place. One last thought, are you tightening all four trunnion bolts down?