Horizontal micro adjustment - may be a solution without a problem

[Gene Howe]

[quote="JPG40504"]Just make sure you are registering the fence to the front rail, then sliding to the collar just before clamping. You still want to be referencing the front rail.

I do not know how small your skosh's are, but I use the thumb and finger method(one on each side) to barely move the fence. A mark on the table helps calibrate things.

BTW, disk sander works good on skoshes. Either rotating or hand held!]

My skoshes are the Imperial ones:D MM skoshes are to fine for my work.
I'm making a sorta raised panel with the Dado set. A strip of contrasting wood is then inlaid (?) between the panel and the rails and stiles. Getting it all even around the perimeter involves skoshes.
I do use the mark on the table method.
I think I'll use the router table for the next set. That SS has the Jointech fence. Skoshes are easier to achieve.

[algale]

Another approach: Rather than moving the fence, you can move the quill in very precise increments --by the thousandth of an inch if desired -- by sticking the required thickness of blade(s) from a feeler gauge between the rubber bumper thingy on the quill and the headstock. KISS. If you are afraid you might need to increase, not decrease the size of the rip, stick a tenth of inch feeler gauge in to begin and you can remove the required thousands as necessary.

[danr]

Another approach: Rather than moving the fence, you can move the quill in very precise increments --by the thousandth of an inch if desired -- by sticking the required thickness of blade(s) from a feeler gauge between the rubber bumper thingy on the quill and the headstock. KISS. If you are afraid you might need to increase, not decrease the size of the rip, stick a tenth of inch feeler gauge in to begin and you can remove the required thousands as necessary.

Another idea surfaces! Just keep on learnin' ...
Dan

[Gene Howe]

Another approach: Rather than moving the fence, you can move the quill in very precise increments --by the thousandth of an inch if desired -- by sticking the required thickness of blade(s) from a feeler gauge between the rubber bumper thingy on the quill and the headstock. KISS. If you are afraid you might need to increase, not decrease the size of the rip, stick a tenth of inch feeler gauge in to begin and you can remove the required thousands as necessary.

Beautiful! Great idea. Thanks.

[JPG]

Another approach: Rather than moving the fence, you can move the quill in very precise increments --by the thousandth of an inch if desired -- by sticking the required thickness of blade(s) from a feeler gauge between the rubber bumper thingy on the quill and the headstock. KISS. If you are afraid you might need to increase, not decrease the size of the rip, stick a tenth of inch feeler gauge in to begin and you can remove the required thousands as necessary.

I realize this is the 'ss way', but I have better luck with really fine tuning with the rip fence.