Cast Iron Bandsaw table with Magswitch

putttn · Post by **putttn** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 12:33 am

I have the cast iron bandsaw table and tried using the Magswitch bandsaw resawing jig and it was a dismal failure for me. I ended up wandering all over the place. Wondered if anyone here has used this and what your impressions are?

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 8:49 am

Have not tried it. Seriously considering making a magnetic fence, though. So, I'll be watching to see what others think.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 8:53 am

Why? Is the band saw not the only device that has a magnetic table?

If the other tables were magnetic, I would completely understand. I do, occasionally, bemoan the fact that the tables are not all magnetic.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 9:35 am

OK here's where I get myself in trouble. Is the subject bandsaw properly tuned up. I have found that a properly tuned tool is a lot more friendly. Also the blade will make a world of difference. I have taken slices from a piece of 5" wide walnut and mahogany using the stock SS fence. I am of the opinion that using the correct blade is an absolute must when doing any resawing.
The tension must be set correctly and the table has to be square to the blade, both side to side and front to back. The blade should be at least a 1/2" or 5/8" wide with no more than 3 to 4 teeth per inch with a standard kerf width. The narrow (.014 ") kerf blades I think will drift more than the thicker kerf ones. The blade should exit the cut uniformly from top to bottom. Or very close to that. A slight lean of the blade from front to back is considered acceptable. Using a blade with 8 or more teeth per inch will result in drifting and bowing of the blade. The gullet of the teeth will fill with debris during the cut which can cause overheating and wandering of the blade. It also may cause the operator to put too much pressure on the stock which is dangerous which only compounds all of the other problems. I use a finger board to hold the stock against the fence at the input of the cut positioned even with the front of the tooth of the blade.
Good luck.
Bill V

putttn · Post by **putttn** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 10:11 am

If you look at some of the videos of the Magswitch bandsaw resawing jig they use the jig as the "fence" and run the stock along the rollers. Looks to me like they are making a lot of adjustment of the stock to follow a straight cut on the stock. Kind of hard to explain.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 10:13 am

dusty wrote:Why? Is the band saw not the only device that has a magnetic table?

If the other tables were magnetic, I would completely understand. I do, occasionally, bemoan the fact that the tables are not all magnetic.

I got a CI jigsaw! Not sure how useful a mag switch would be for it! Yes it is SS.

stephen_a._draper · Post by **stephen_a._draper** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 10:31 am

Rather than buy the Shopsmith bandsaw table upgrade I bought the Magfence II from Carter and really like it. It is easy to use. You will find it here:

http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw- ... etic-fence

I also replaced the Shopsmith wearable blade guides with the ball bearing upgrade from Carter.

http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw- ... th-bandsaw

putttn · Post by **putttn** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 11:13 am

The Carter fence has a nice flat surface to run the stock along whereas the Magswitch you run the stock against rollers. Wish I would have gone with the Magfence.

putttn · Post by **putttn** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 12:03 pm

I also have the Jigsaw but it has aluminum table. I was thinking the Magswitch would work but won't.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 12:42 pm

If we want a magnetic table - would a few well placed rare earth magnets on the underside work?

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