Cutting Small Angles

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:23 pm

How long are these 'slats'?

This is a job for the conical sanding disk.

A flat sanding disk could be used, but tis more difficult.

Only one fence setting is required(once it is 'zeroed' in), so all pieces should come out the same(assuming operator consistency as well).

The accuracy of the 3/4" square pieces will affect the consistency as well.

The setup is to initially set the table and disk to provide the required angle.(2° for a flat disk, and -1° for the conical disk. I say initially because 2° does not 'compute'. Tweak this setup until the dimensions are achieved for one edge. This means the entire side is sanded up to the 'top' and 1/64" is removed from the bottom. If using a flat disk, read up on how to set the fence offset angle and the way to feed workpieces. You may need to 'try' several pieces to get the angle(bottom width) correct. I would do that with wider pieces and much before/after measuring. Only one side need be used for this.

Once the angle has been established, the fence can be set for the proper width. Target is now to get the top width correct.

Once that is achieved(a 3/4" piece will still be 3/4" wide after both edges are fed through and the edges are sanded full width.(This is not a very easy task if you are pursuing perfection.)

Now proceed to run the perfectly sawn 3/4 x 3/4 pieces past the sanding disk once each edge to shape the two opposing edges, Make sure the bottom(narrow face) is always towards the table.

IIWM, I would pre sand the workpieces to 3/4" width dimension using the sanding disk at a square angle before doing any of this.

I say it does not compute above since this will create a 1.2° angle on the two side faces.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:30 pm

I guess I just don't understand...

Why are we not just cutting the strips like that with the saw as we go???

You know, angle blade 2 degrees and cut edge then flip and cut slat then flip and cut, flip and cut and so on until you have enough slats. I just see it as a simple trapezoid from an end view... (shrug ?)
What am I missing?

.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:34 pm

What is the lid 'depth' and 'height' you are shooting for? As I said above. the dimensions do not yield a 2° angled edge.

I am sure the plans you are using are well thought out, but the presentation/description of this 'detail' seems lacking in accuracy.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:37 pm

robinson46176 wrote:I guess I just don't understand... Why are we not just cutting the strips like that with the saw as we go???
You know, angle blade 2 degrees and cut edge then flip and cut slat then flip and cut, flip and cut and so on until you have enough slats. I just see it as a simple trapezoid from an end view... (shrug ?)
What am I missing?

.

I am guessing he needs good gluing surface and doesn't have a good blade?

I totally agree with this display of common sense. Same 'flip' as when sanding a couple posts back.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 2:18 pm

Assuming you have 24 3/4" pieces I would cut one more.

Since you plan shows the narrow of the chamfer is 23/32 I would set the fence exactly 23/32 from the blade and
then I would tilt my table 2 degrees making sure I had maintained a 23/32 in distance from the fence on table to blade.

I would then place finger boards in front and back of the blade and one on the fence to hold the wood down and against the fence.

I would cut all 24 boards using the next one to push the one in front through. And use the 25th one to push the last. Then reverse them and cut them again the same way.

Since bottom of the chamfer would remain 23/32 wide the fence and hold downs will hold them perfectly if you keep them flat on the table.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 2:46 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:Assuming you have 24 3/4" pieces I would cut one more.

Since you plan shows the narrow of the chamfer is 23/32 I would set the fence exactly 23/32 from the blade and
then I would tilt my table 2 degrees making sure I had maintained a 23/32 in distance from the fence on table to blade.

I would then place finger boards in front and back of the blade and one on the fence to hold the wood down and against the fence.

I would cut all 24 boards using the next one to push the one in front through. And use the 25th one to push the last. Then reverse them and cut them again the same way.

Since bottom of the chamfer would remain 23/32 wide the fence and hold downs will hold them perfectly if you keep them flat on the table.

Wanna think that over again Ed?;)

Think 47/64!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 2:50 pm

It has been said that this will not work but I cannot come to that conclusion because I am lacking information . I don't know that height or the the width of the arc.

The dimensions that have been given would result in a arc that is 14 55/64" wide and 3 5/16" high.

Tilt the table 2° right and cut one edge. Flip the work piece end for end, keeping the same surface on table as before. Move the fence to get the 3/4" width and make the second cut.

It is imperative that the work piece be held tight against the fence. You need not ask how I know this. I cut a couple pieces to see how this would work. I used two push blocks. One feeding the piece and the other holding the piece tight to the table. This would be the right place to use a feather board.

[ATTACH]24112[/ATTACH]

The width of the slat, cut the way I did it, will be 45/64" if the slat is 3/4" thick and the angle is the same 2°s as I used. The accuracy of the tilt will obviously alter these measurements. What is shown here is dead on 2°. I would not expect to exactly duplicate these dimensions in the real world of saw dust.

[ATTACH]24117[/ATTACH]

I used a Wixey to measure the table tilt and the adjustable stop collar to make the necessary adjustments.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 2:54 pm

bear1050 wrote:Chuck thanks for the input but not sure that would work as this is for a curved top for a chest and I think it needs the cuts on both sides of the slat. See attached diagram.

What is the height and width of the arch?

Since it seems the end pieces will be trimmed to size, all this accuracy exercise is likely moot.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 3:16 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]Wanna think that over again Ed?]

I thought his plans showed wide end of the chamfer to be 3/4" and the narrow 23/32"

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 3:18 pm

dusty wrote:It has been said that this will not work but I cannot come to that conclusion because I am lacking information . I don't know that height or the the width of the arc.

The dimensions that have been given would result in a arc that is 14 55/64" wide and 3 5/16" high.

Tilt the table 2° right and cut one edge. Flip the work piece end for end, keeping the same surface on table as before. Move the fence to get the 3/4" width and make the second cut.

It is imperative that the work piece be held tight against the fence. You need not ask how I know this. I cut a couple pieces to see how this would work. I used two push blocks. One feeding the piece and the other holding the piece tight to the table. This would be the right place to use a feather board.

[ATTACH]24112[/ATTACH]

The width of the slat, cut the way I did it, will be 45/64" if the slat is 3/4" thick and the angle is the same 2°s as I used. The accuracy of the tilt will obviously alter these measurements. What is shown here is dead on 2°. I would not expect to exactly duplicate these dimensions in the real world of saw dust.

I used a Wixey to measure the table tilt and the adjustable stop collar to make the necessary adjustments.

I think you kept the keeper on the right side of the blade. My way the keeper in on left. Done that way the fence would be 23/32" per his plans.