Wow! to me seems like a lot of engineering for no real need. Having done a few faceplate turnings for pepper mills and toothpick holders, I found absolutely NO need to center the mounting wood onto the faceplate. Can someone tell me why it is necessary?
I've always thought - So what, if the mounted wood is not centered. If the uneven corners/edges bother my eyes, I can just trim them with a gouge.
The real centered wood is the stuff that's attached to the faceplate wood.
Of course, if one starts with a workpiece that's already been cut to the desired width, then it would be necessary to center stuff. But workpiece wood is rarely expensive enough to not have a thickness that's larger than the outcome. If this were the case, I would be collecting all shavings and sawdust, glueing it into a mass and re turning it.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
charlese wrote:Wow! to me seems like a lot of engineering for no real need. Having done a few faceplate turnings for pepper mills and toothpick holders, I found absolutely NO need to center the mounting wood onto the faceplate. Can someone tell me why it is necessary?
I've always thought - So what, if the mounted wood is not centered. If the uneven corners/edges bother my eyes, I can just trim them with a gouge.
The real centered wood is the stuff that's attached to the faceplate wood.
Of course, if one starts with a workpiece that's already been cut to the desired width, then it would be necessary to center stuff. But workpiece wood is rarely expensive enough to not have a thickness that's larger than the outcome. If this were the case, I would be collecting all shavings and sawdust, glueing it into a mass and re turning it.
Balance Chuck. Big stuff turned by 'real men:D' require balancing. But then if trees, they be one side heavy if not very dry!
I sorta agree, but a decent starting 'point' is nice!;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
RonKlein wrote:A 5/8" brad point bit works pretty well for centering the faceplates, too.
Ron
Now that you mention it that is how I was taught. Since I don't know any other face plate that has a 5/8" hole I suspect Shopsmith is where I learned it. It is either in the SS manual or that is what they taught in the traveling academies. But I almost had to have heard it from Shopsmith.
I hadn't faceplate turned in so long I had completely forgotten about it when I read this forum but the minute you mentioned I could remember centering my face plate with a 5/8" brad point.
Ed in Tampa wrote:Now that you mention it that is how I was taught. Since I don't know any other face plate that has a 5/8" hole I suspect Shopsmith is where I learned it. It is either in the SS manual or that is what they taught in the traveling academies. But I almost had to have heard it from Shopsmith.
I hadn't faceplate turned in so long I had completely forgotten about it when I read this forum but the minute you mentioned I could remember centering my face plate with a 5/8" brad point.
Did not Craftsman lathes also have a 5/8" shaft?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
