Cutting Small Angles

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 3:43 pm

dusty wrote:Our numbers are close but I doubt that we will ever determine which are closest to correct.

I believe this to be my last shot at this.

[ATTACH]24127[/ATTACH]

I think post 62 is.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 3:50 pm

bear1050 wrote:I want to thank everyone for the input? I am really new at wood working and some of the suggestions are beyond my beginners understanding. Wanted to build this chest as I thought it would be simple and straight forward to do but right now I am not sure I can get the top correct which is why I picked this plan cause I liked the design. Would anyone have a simple way to explain to me how I should move fwd with this plan? I am not sure I am as far along in the wood making business as most of you and my understanding of some of the above is beyond me. thanks again for all the help and input. Bear

Please do not allow this exchange of opinions and procedure alter your thoughts about these plans. I am certain that if you follow the plans that you will have a project to be proud of.

The only recommendation I would make at this point is that if you have not already cut 3/4" slats, do not. I recommend that you work with wider stock. I would waste material rather than try to trim 2° bevels off of the side of 3/4" slats.

Good luck with your project. Please keep us informed of your progress.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 3:52 pm

JPG40504 wrote:I would cut from a wide board that has been cut to 'near' final length, the first strip. That strip will have one side beveled and three sides square. Flip the board end for end, placing the wide face facing up. This time the strip will have two sides beveled.

Isn't that what Farmer said FIFTY SIX posts ago?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 3:58 pm

beeg wrote:Isn't that what Farmer said FIFTY SIX posts ago?

Of course!

And it was well worth repeating.

Especially with all the intervening noise!!!:eek:

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 4:05 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Please do not let our taking a simple question(how do I make this piece) and making a two day project out of critiquing the plan discourage you.(not all of the posts make perfect sense anyway since we were 'brain storming')

Set the table for a 2° bevel cut. Set the fence for a 3/4" top width at 3/4" above the table. Take a few trial cuts on short pieces. By trial cuts, I mean cut just enough to get the profile of the end and stop and measure and readjust the width(top = 3/4") if necessary.

IIWM, I would not cut the 3/4 x 3/4 strips prior to cutting the bevel.

I would cut from a wide board that has been cut to 'near' final length, the first strip. That strip will have one side beveled and three sides square. Flip the board end for end, placing the wide face facing up. This time the strip will have two sides beveled.

Repeat until the board is consumed.

Repeat until sufficient strips are made.

It would be good to consider the first strip cut from each board to be waste and not try to add the second bevel. Two could be used for the outside pieces that get trimmed.

If however they are already 3/4 x 3/4, set up using Ed's hold downs etc.. Again setup for 2° and 3/4" width across the top. Tight to the fence and tight to the table!!!

How many times will you have to reset the fence doing it this way?

edflorence · Post by **edflorence** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 4:08 pm

bear1050 wrote:I want to thank everyone for the input? I am really new at wood working and some of the suggestions are beyond my beginners understanding. Wanted to build this chest as I thought it would be simple and straight forward to do but right now I am not sure I can get the top correct which is why I picked this plan cause I liked the design. Would anyone have a simple way to explain to me how I should move fwd with this plan? I am not sure I am as far along in the wood making business as most of you and my understanding of some of the above is beyond me. thanks again for all the help and input. Bear

JPG and Farmer are giving you some good advice, Bear. Don't overthink this (as we all just did!)...give it your best shot...experience is the best teacher. As has been said, make some trial cuts using inexpensive wood first, then go for it. Use plenty of hold downs, don't make any cuts that you find scary, measure twice cut once etc. For me, I like scale drawings as you can tell from my posts...I find them a helpful way to avoid wasting material and a good way to think through the steps of a project. Besides, although I think SketchUp is great, old-school pencil drafting is sort of fun.

thanks for starting this thread...it has been very entertaining and interesting. Please do let us know how your project goes.

reible · Post by **reible** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 4:51 pm

New and revised using the 2 degree angle rather then the 3/4" x 23/32".

I started from scratch, a 10" circle, centered a 3/4" x 3/4" square. Struck lines from the center of the circle to the top edges of the square. How about that the angle is 2 degrees off each side. That means the top is 3/4" and the bottom is 45/64".

Doing a 4 degree rotation to the right and left until I came to a total of 21 pieces. They fit the 10" radius and they fit the 12-1/2" and 14" dimensions pretty well.

[ATTACH]24128[/ATTACH]

Ed

reible · Post by **reible** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 6:46 pm

I've worked out how to make the necessary cuts without too much effort for me. However explaining it becomes a bear.

First I would use a good quality rip blade, no sanding necessary. I would set up the rip fence to the right of the blade. I would add a sacrificial fence to the rip fence. I would tilt the table 2 degrees to the right. Blade depth of about 1" should do.

The work piece would be cut with the 3/4" side down. The cutting edge of the blade will have to be inset into the sacrificial so it cuts the full kerf at the point were it meets the table. The top of the blade has to be high enough to make a full cut.

With workpiece being held against the sacrificial fence the blade needs to be such that none of the lower edge is removed.

One pass on each side will do it.

Clear as mud, right?

Ed

EDIT: Added sketch

[ATTACH]24130[/ATTACH]

Sacrificial fence and workpiece have been modified so the relation to the blade would show. The sacrificial fence needs to be the length of the rip fence to work correctly. Kerf width shown is 3/32" this will vary with blade selected.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:52 pm

dusty wrote:How many times will you have to reset the fence doing it this way?

Only the initial setup.

It is desirable to keep the 'top'(3/4") edge off the table so the pointy corner(92°) is pressing against the fence above the table(the fence has clearance between the bottom and the table). Tight to the table and fence are important(yes Beeg I already said that:D).

BTW
I do not have the latest Sketchup(yet) and have not learned it well(yet) anyway. Appreciate the thought though!:)

skou · Post by **skou** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 10:42 pm

Guys, if it was me, AND I had a conical sanding disc, (as well as a MkV, instead of an ER) I'd set the table flat (zero degrees) and set the fence to the correct spacing, and sand 4 degrees off of ONE side. (A simplification of the KISS theory.) Does a MkV table have a detent at zero degrees? I don't know, since I haven't played with one. The ER does. 90, 45 0, and 45 the other way.

Or, am I rehashing old history?

Needless to say, this thread is eye opening.

steve