The Corners Don't Fit
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- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
The Corners Don't Fit
I have a problem building boxes; boxes of any sort. It seems that I can never get then perfectly square. Try as I do, they never come out right.
A different thread got me to thinking about this so I decided to work through my problem in Sketchup. I sketched the side of a simple box (6x6x2) with miters and then duplicated the sides. This gives me four "identical sides" with no miscuts except for one. All of the miters are 44.8 degrees rather than what would be the intended 45 degree cut.
Only a small error of .2 degrees. That should not make a big difference.
When I put the box together (in Sketchup), I did one corner at a time. This is the way I normally assemble the sides of a box (because I never have enough of the right clamps). Doing it this way, I got three pretty good joints but the fourth was a bear (typical of many of my boxes.
[ATTACH]24135[/ATTACH]
My tiny .2 degree error accumulated to 1.2 degrees at the final joint. Mathematically, it is obvious but the question remains, "What can be done about it"?
Equally obvious - cut 45 degree miters. Treat that tiny .2 degree error as a big thing.
Get an Incra V120 Miter Gauge or learn to micro-adjust the Table Tilt.
A different thread got me to thinking about this so I decided to work through my problem in Sketchup. I sketched the side of a simple box (6x6x2) with miters and then duplicated the sides. This gives me four "identical sides" with no miscuts except for one. All of the miters are 44.8 degrees rather than what would be the intended 45 degree cut.
Only a small error of .2 degrees. That should not make a big difference.
When I put the box together (in Sketchup), I did one corner at a time. This is the way I normally assemble the sides of a box (because I never have enough of the right clamps). Doing it this way, I got three pretty good joints but the fourth was a bear (typical of many of my boxes.
[ATTACH]24135[/ATTACH]
My tiny .2 degree error accumulated to 1.2 degrees at the final joint. Mathematically, it is obvious but the question remains, "What can be done about it"?
Equally obvious - cut 45 degree miters. Treat that tiny .2 degree error as a big thing.
Get an Incra V120 Miter Gauge or learn to micro-adjust the Table Tilt.
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- A Box, the Glue Up.png (27.95 KiB) Viewed 5370 times
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
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I thought you have a incra v120 miter gauge? For it to be square, EACH CUT has to at a 45° cut, a 44.8° cut equals 89.6°. Are ya trying to cut a bevel miter?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
Confirm that the outside length is exactly the same. The .2 difference will accumulate.
For miter cuts on boxes I use this

It's very fast and quite accurate. I've had the same blade in mine for 12 yrs and it still cuts beautifully.
For miter cuts on boxes I use this

It's very fast and quite accurate. I've had the same blade in mine for 12 yrs and it still cuts beautifully.
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
I tilt the table using a wixey box and my miters come out just fine. But not only does the miter have to be 45 degrees, it has to be square across the board. Both have to be perfect for a perfect miter in all four corners.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
I solved that problem years ago. I declared miter joints to be part of a great fiendish plot and just quit using them almost totally.
Too many easier ways to make a box.
Actually I don't have all that much trouble with them but I typically hand fit them often using sandpaper or a fine rasp.
If it makes you feel any better go to an antique shop and take an honest look at some nice handmade pieces. It didn't always work out for the old-timers either.
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Too many easier ways to make a box.
Actually I don't have all that much trouble with them but I typically hand fit them often using sandpaper or a fine rasp.
If it makes you feel any better go to an antique shop and take an honest look at some nice handmade pieces. It didn't always work out for the old-timers either.
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
I keep using the same method and it never works
Assuming there is a box bottom already in place with a loose fit during a dry fit exercise - there are several methods to assemble the box sides as is, without a new miter gauge or "micro" learning, or trying to adjust to "micro" accuracy.
In this case, close is good enough!! The error as seen in Dusty's example is actually no error at all. It's just something that needs a different methodology.
First fix: Assemble all 4 sides at the same time distributing the angle error 4 ways. Use an inexpensive strap clamp. This should be used for the dry fit and also the glue-up. This type of clamp is also used to tie down things on top of a car.
Second fix: Trim one or more of the corner's 45 deg. cuts with a sander so they fit in a second dry fit.
Third fix: If three corners fit and one has a gap - cut a wood splint to fill the gap.
NOTE: Gluing up one corner at a time is asking for trouble. There is no sense making trouble when different techniques can solve the problems.
In this case, close is good enough!! The error as seen in Dusty's example is actually no error at all. It's just something that needs a different methodology.
First fix: Assemble all 4 sides at the same time distributing the angle error 4 ways. Use an inexpensive strap clamp. This should be used for the dry fit and also the glue-up. This type of clamp is also used to tie down things on top of a car.
Second fix: Trim one or more of the corner's 45 deg. cuts with a sander so they fit in a second dry fit.
Third fix: If three corners fit and one has a gap - cut a wood splint to fill the gap.
NOTE: Gluing up one corner at a time is asking for trouble. There is no sense making trouble when different techniques can solve the problems.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
I find most of my miter problems not so much on the angle of the cut but rather on the length of the boards. If they aren't exactly the same length no matter how perfect the 45 degree cut is they will not go together without a gap.
Also an old craftsman taught me a secret of the miter cut. Glue them together if there is a gap on the outside corner run the shaft of a screw driver over the corner. The wood fibers will bend and close the gap. No filler no noticeable difference when staining or finishing.
Also an old craftsman taught me a secret of the miter cut. Glue them together if there is a gap on the outside corner run the shaft of a screw driver over the corner. The wood fibers will bend and close the gap. No filler no noticeable difference when staining or finishing.
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!
The Dubby sled will take care of the problem but I don't think he has a model for the Shopsmith. I have one on my Craftsman 113.xxx saw and it works great. I think there must have been a problem with someone tilting the sled off the end of the table on a Shopsmith. I am thinking about building one with a locking miter slot and that should solve the problem. If you want it see it in action watch his video. Search for Dubby and watch the fun.
'57 Greenie 352187
?? 510 27235
Bandsaw
Jointer
Belt sander
Bob
?? 510 27235
Bandsaw
Jointer
Belt sander
Bob
- edflorence
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- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 8:14 pm
- Location: Idaho Panhandle
I like the Shopsmith Miter Pro for boxrs and frames. Even if the corner cuts are not perfectly 45 degrees, the jig ensures that all corners come together to make 90 degrees. Mating cuts are always complementary. I have cut boo koo picture frames using the Miter Pro and then clamped them with band clamps and they have all come out square, so I never get concerned about if the corner is actually 45.
Granted there are times when a single cut must be 45 degrees, but for boxes and frames all that matter is that the corners be 90.
Granted there are times when a single cut must be 45 degrees, but for boxes and frames all that matter is that the corners be 90.
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser