JPG40504 wrote:Please verify the size of the Franklin motor bearings when you take them out. All we have at present is word of mouth from god knows where.
Will do. Other than the LH thread, anything else hiding in this monster that I need to know?
- 1986 Mark V 500 Mini
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
joshh wrote:Will do. Other than the LH thread, anything else hiding in this monster that I need to know?
Actually it is not only the Franklin motor that has that nut.
I be eagerly anticipating your expose of that motor.
Having never traveled that route, I can offer no guidance.
If I can locate it, I will link to a post re that nut and spring.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I use LocTite 271 (red, permament) whenever I have a nut on a reversible motor. I would believe the spring will keep the LH nut from unwinding in the reverse direction but why take the chance. I have never had to remove the nut from motor I reversed but believe it can be done even using the 271 LocTite. I normally do not use any blue LocTite. I have not heard or seen any motor floating sheave destroy the key and then spin on the motor shaft which is what it will take to unwind the nut. Even with a broken motor spring, there was still some spring pressure on the flat washer or nut.
I use the same 30" long 1X4 board (1 1/8" hole drilled half way with 7/8" hole for the remainer and centered on the board) that I use for the snap ring motors but just put pressure on the LH nut and turn the sheaves by hand. Same way I installed the LH nut. I have 12" 2X4 vertically on the end of the 30" beard that I place under the bottom of a upper cabinet so I can hold the spring compressed with one hand or help remove or start the LH nut on the motor shaft holding the board with one hand and turning the sheaves with the other hand.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
[quote="joshh"]I've had Ed's 115/230v motor done but I still need to test the 230v selection. Can I use my dryer outlet? I don't really want to get electrocuted ]
Which of the 3/4 holes were you going to stick yer wires into?:D
It will work, but be careful. FWIW there is no more voltage to earth than a 115v outlet.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange