lowering the shopsmith

[berry]

I'm anxious to see what you come up with. I'm 5'5". I have a platform made from 4 x 4's I sometimes use. The problem with a platform is you only have to forget once that you're on it when you step off or forget it's there walking through the shop and your on your ass with a broken something. It works okay and is an improvement for me. It's light enough that I can pick it up to lean against the wall when not in use.

Please post if you work on this.

[benush26]

Ok i have decided to make a Powered lift system to raise and lower the Shopsmith 4".

I have found two linear 12 volt actuators just sitting around the shop with nothing to do. So I can design some type of system using these actuators to lift/lower the Shopsmith unit.

OK I will get this done this summer.

Any ideas or drawing would help. These units have 5" stroke and 1000Lb load rating.


RICK

Using this from Shopsmith might help determine some beginning heights
[ATTACH]24189[/ATTACH]

However, the major problem as I see it is the varying height of the main table. It will travel nearly 4" to accommodate the depth of cut where as a conventional table saw is a fixed height, thereby allowing an optimal height determined by the user.

First determine what would be the lowest optimal height for sawing, based on comfort and safety. I'm not certain that 5" maximum lift by the actuators would really do much more than compensate for the minimum table height however using both in tandem - one was used to the raise the first 5" and the other for another 5" (see below) could be plausible To be effective (at least IMHO) the Shopsmith would need to be raised or lowered (using what ever mechanical means) to the users minimum accepted height and then the 5" actuator adjustment could be used for that specific user.

To be universally adjustable, I would find something of a minimum height range as determined by someone 5' 3" and additionally presume that travel would be a minimum of 12" [4" for table travel and 8" for user height variance, using the above drawing as a reference] to accommodate users through 6'6" (that should catch the vast majority of users). The legs would need to either be removed and the assembly placed on a cabinet of the appropriate height as was the Mark VII or the legs cut approximately 12" and modified (probably using a couple rectangular frames). Personally I could see two variations. First I would revert back to the Mark VII base design then one using electric actuators or one using the existing Shopsmith table rack and pinion. The manual version could even have the handles and locks so it melded into the design (though I would have bench tubes mounted to four posts that were locked for stability)

If the two actuators were "stacked" to facilitate 10" of travel, then a mid balance point would be where they would have to be placed to assure no binding and some frame work to keep the SS from tipping would need to be fabricated. Presuming "if you build it they will come" is true, your design would be something that Shopsmith could market. Both to adapt to individual users, but also as a storage enhancement (fits under a conventional work bench for true out of the way experience!) I'd like to see THAT demonstrated by Billy Martin!

Anyway, just a few beginning thoughts. Below zero for a few days and the local weather guesser says lots more snow on the way (18" the last 3 days ) so lots of indoor time to mind design plans)

Be well,
Ben

[dusty]

To determine the height at which I wanted the table saw, I set the table for a 2" depth of cut. At this setting, the main table is 41 1/2" above floor level. I would like for it to be somewhere between 36" and 38".

This means lower the Way Tubes about 4 1/2" or stated another way: mount the Headrest (13) and Base Arm (24) on a fixed height platform that is 16 1/2" tall.

[benush26]

PLEASE NOTE!!
The original drawing of the Mark V is NOT MINE. I downloaded it from the Trimble site
THANK YOU TO THE CREATOR.

Using a couple extra Way tubes and two carriages (with or without tables) and about 20' of 1" square steel tubing, I think we can create a height adjustable Shopsmith. The tables or trunnion parts could be attached using any wide variety of clamps as could the Way tubers to the steel frame. If you wanted to complete Shopsmith authentic, I would guess you could use the Lift assist clamps.

Voila
[ATTACH]24196[/ATTACH]

Please note that in the drawing the way tubes are IN the frame not ON it, but I was not about to try and finesse all the pieces into EXACT position.
Also I could not adequately remove the section of leg to show the complete removal, but did show an ESTIMATION of what could / should happen.

If you cut the legs at their lowest level and removing the rest I think it would result in about an overall 10" table height reduction. If you are taller and want the table higher, removing about 4" of leg would probably work for you, HOWEVER!!!
WHERE YOU CHOOSE TO SET THE FRAME WILL DETERMINE THE RELATIVE WORKING HEIGHT SO FIGURE CAREFULLY!!! The higher you set the frame the shorter and narrower it will be (to fit the taper of the legs) Someone with access to their machine will need to determine the height of the carriage and table at it's most compressed. Knowing that will allow you to figure the amount of leg to remove. Height of the adjusting assembly (top [table or trunnion] to bottom of the carriage) minus the amount you want to reduce the final saw table height is where the top of the frame should be positioned relative to the existing bases. (Getting tired so hope that makes sense! )

1. Measure the inside of the legs (somewhere above the casters) to obtain your frame size. If you cannot weld it or have someone weld it, I would presume that it could be fabricated using drilled hoes and nuts and bolts.

2. Set the frame inside the legs parallel to the floor, mark and drill the legs and frame so you can use nuts and bolts to hold it in place. Personally I would have a at least 4 bolts per leg, probably two on each side to help deflect any stress. Attach the frame or wait until you have sawed off the legs and attach later.

3. Mark where to cut the legs above the frame

4. Whether you turn your Mark 5 (7) upside down or suspend it, remove the legs and cut them

5, If you have yet to install the frame, do it now.

6. Take the two Way tubes and install the two carriages so they are near the ends of the tubes but within the interior frame bracing.

7. Set the tubes on the frame and secure. (However you may choose.)

8. Insert the tables, set down to the bottom position and tighten the locks, You want the tables all the way down so there is as little deflection as possible within the frame and what's left of the legs. when you set the Shopsmith on them

9. Set the Shopsmith on the tables, center left and right and front and back and find a way to secure. Personally that's where I think the Lift assist clamps would work well. Drilling the tables where needed.

I think that's it.

A Shopsmith Mark V 500, 505, 510, 520 and Mark 7 adjustable to the users preference with compromising the integrity and safety of the original design.

Tell Shopsmith I'd like my check!!:D

Be well,
Ben

Please note that if you wanted the most stable surface, I'd use a cabinet rather than the existing legs and a frame. The you could mount the carriages to the surface and drill holes through the top for the table tubes to pass through. Attach flip down caster and you are set.

[benush26]

I "think", that if the two table adjustable support system were to be used, by initially releasing the trunnion locks and raising the right side (and then re-tightening ), the length of a beveled cut might be extended beyond where it now exists.

Yet another reason to build this!

Bleary eyed and rummy so no more tonight!!

Be well,
Ben

[dusty]

In post #4 I presented an idea for how to lower the Mark V for short people like me.

This update is in keeping with the discussion of an adjustable height Mark V.:)

[ATTACH]24200[/ATTACH]

[JPG]

. . .
Tell Shopsmith I'd like my check!!:D

Be well,
Ben
. . .

Pray for an early thaw!:D

[idcook]

I "think", that if the two table adjustable support system were to be used, by initially releasing the trunnion locks and raising the right side (and then re-tightening ), the length of a beveled cut might be extended beyond where it now exists.

Yet another reason to build this!

Bleary eyed and rummy so no more tonight!!

Be well,
Ben

Iiiiii dunno benush.

Now, I&#8217]I[/B] see considerable potential for issues regardin’ structural integrity and operator safety. (I suspect the suspect ingredient in this contraption to be rum but, being a whiskey man myself, I’m no expert.)

Having to align two tables if you need to adjust the height could be a headache.

Seems to me that the best way to tackle this concern is with a platform or to remove the legs entirely and place the whole works (sans legs) on something else that allows for its height to be adjusted.

Of course I’m also not a big fan of chopping up the original goods. Probably because I only have one good to chop if choppin’ urges should arise. Maybe I’ll find myself a raggedy machine that I can subject to my merest whim one day.

[terrydowning]

Iiiiii dunno benush.

Seems to me that the best way to tackle this concern is with a platform or to remove the legs entirely and place the whole works (sans legs) on something else that allows for its height to be adjusted.

Like this Harbor Freight Motorcycle Lift? Just a thought. If I had $350 laying around with nothing to do and the height was a major issue for me. I'd experiment. My issue is the opposite regrading lathe. Operations. I would like the SS to be a bit higher. But I would like the TS lower. Seems like this would do the job nicely.

[idcook]

Like this

Just a thought. If I had $350 laying around with nothing to do and the height was a major issue for me. I'd experiment. My issue is the opposite regrading lathe. Operations. I would like the SS to be a bit higher. But I would like the TS lower. Seems like this would do the job nicely.

Yeah. I saw you post this earlier and it is certainly the safe and reliable way to go.
Heck, you might even be able to lower that baby enough to tuck it under the bed when the missus ain’t lookin.’