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terrydowning
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Post by terrydowning »

That should work. I use 3 in 1 oil on mine. The new bottles have a flexible extendable tip for more precise application
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

terrydowning wrote:That should work. I use 3 in 1 oil on mine. The new bottles have a flexible extendable tip for more precise application
Ditto unless yer in a hot very climate.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
steve4447
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Could you expand on that for me?

Post by steve4447 »

JPG40504 wrote:It ain't a lubricant, and you do not need them in a non motor oil application.

It is 'possible' you are seeing the result of using motor oil.(wild guess there!)
Could you expand on that for me?

I might be missing something here...For instance ATF is very high detergent oil and it is used in transmissions just because it has the properties that are desired for that purpose...And when I obtained a Rebuilt Manual Transmission ...From Man-Trans ..in Tallahassee....The gave a two year unlimited mileage guarantee...With the stipulation and with a warning tag attached to the unit specifying that the transmission MUST be filled with ATF...Only..No Substitution...

The only thing that I have ever read that made any sense to me about Detergent Oil V Non Detergent Oil was...Detergent Oil keeps the dirt in suspension in the oil ..and therefore should be utilized in systems with oil filters to filter the dirt out of the oil and Non Detergent oil would allow the dirt to settle out of the oil in the sump and settle to the bottom...Of course that could only work when the oil was still and allowed to settle..Or so it seems to me?..

Lacking a sump I fail to see any advantage one way or the other?....That's not to say that I'm not still missing something here??
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

OK. You need a lubricant, not a suspender.;)

Yer examples are interesting, but I do not think relevant to lubricating the SS reeves drive.:)

i.e. quit extrapolating.:rolleyes:
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
steve4447
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Must be over my head?

Post by steve4447 »

[quote="JPG40504"]OK. You need a lubricant, not a suspender.]

Must be over my head?...I'll never understand how oil is not a lubricant?:)
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

steve4447 wrote:Must be over my head?...I'll never understand how oil is not a lubricant?:)
Who said it was not?


Oil is slick stuff!


The additives(detergent) is what makes most motor oil inappropriate.

SAE 10 non-detergent motor oil would be appropriate.


The things you mentioned earlier are all lubricants, but have additives specific for their application as well as viscosity. Just because they are all lubricants does not mean they can be interchanged.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
charlese
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Post by charlese »

steve4447 wrote:Must be over my head?...I'll never understand how oil is not a lubricant?:)
Kinda strange, isn't it! For some reason I don't understand, detergents in oil are not suitable for lubricating slides in the Shopsmith. In the control sheave shaft, there is a steel shaft and key that slides back and forth in a brass coated tube. My hunch is the abrasive (cleaning) effect of the detergent will cause pre-mature wear. Of course this is just a wild guess:confused:


When lubricating, don't forget the motor and floating sheave shaft. The shaft there is covered with a spring. Experience has shown this shaft need more oil that can be given through the small hole hidden beneath the spring. The best way I have found is to invert to drill press position and oil the shaft letting the oil seep into the shaft. Regular oiling of this shaft will keep the speed control working smoother because the speed changes work against the afore mentioned spring.

over the years, I had excellent results using spout turbine oil. It is a light oil. It can be found in any hardware stored. A single bottle will last a couple years/:) http://www.amazon.com/ZOOM-SPOUT-ZS75A- ... B000HACY3Y
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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