Ring Master, the questions

[reible]

Again it was might cool in the shop at this point, especially the metal objects so I'm hoping this would be easier on a summers day.

While adjusting the angle the angle changed slightly to 23.65 degrees as seen here.

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Of course this error is very minor in the scheme of things, less then the "paper" methods of getting and reading the angle or trying to set the angle using the ringmasters native protractor.

This image is what the results of the setting show up on the ringmaster.

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New adventures coming up will include a look at the PAG as I wanted to see how that works with this. Couldn't find much on it but as you will see the design is super simple........

Ed

[benush26]

Ed,
I'm not certain that this is of interest, but I was in a shop last year to look at buying some equipment and the owner had the "generic" ring master (not one sold through Shopsmith). He had engraved lines on the vertical surface adjacent to each of the the degree marks, to reduce the parallax effect. He had three different colors of vertical lines and two horizontal lines on the lower plate that he said were for standard set ups. I didn't ask nor did he explain further, but I took it to mean that he specific sizes and thicknesses of wood for "production" work and just matching up specific lines saved him time.
Again, not certain it would be of interest to you, but thought I'd pass it along.

Be well,
Ben

[reible]

Yes I can see how this might be of use once one has the experience with the machine as this owner has obviously has had. It would be making the adjustments much nicer, something something that would be easy to do.

At this point I have not yet decided just how accurate one needs to be with the settings. Lacking the ability to play in the shop at this time, I'm spending the time on some research. Adding the vertical lines might well be all the improvement needed, but when I'm done I'll know.

Ed

Ed,
I'm not certain that this is of interest, but I was in a shop last year to look at buying some equipment and the owner had the "generic" ring master (not one sold through Shopsmith). He had engraved lines on the vertical surface adjacent to each of the the degree marks, to reduce the parallax effect. He had three different colors of vertical lines and two horizontal lines on the lower plate that he said were for standard set ups. I didn't ask nor did he explain further, but I took it to mean that he specific sizes and thicknesses of wood for "production" work and just matching up specific lines saved him time.
Again, not certain it would be of interest to you, but thought I'd pass it along.

Be well,
Ben

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I 'recovered' the faint lines from the pdf file you posted. There is a different fig 3 from that you posted. ????

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Continuing. For some reason there are two fig 7?

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[reible]

The Precision Angle Guide (PAG) has been mentioned before and if you are interested he is a source and an image of this item.

http://www.woodenpost.com/products/Ring ... alties.htm

The PAG plus the a DVD and instructions is about $50 plus S&H.

Since I don't have those resources I'm going by how I think this should operate. If anyone who owns one can fill us all in all the better but until then this is how I see it.

The two bars of the PAG form a sort of square. One edge of the PAG is set to be parallel to the slide plate of the ringmaster. The other arm of the PAG will be at 90 degrees and that will provide a point of contact off on the ringmasters swing plate. The rod of the PAG will contact also contact the swing plate based on the angle needed.

From this information I believe that I understand how this works. The next sketch show the triangle formed. Those with math skills know that this means.

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Since I don't want to derail any income from the sales of these I'm not going to elaborate on the details.

In basic terms the angle is being applied to determine a length of the rod. Since this was related to my previous spread sheet I have added that information.

So by way of a demonstation of this, if the material thickness was .690" the angle would be 24.37 degrees (unmentioned length of adjacent leg) leads me to believe the PAG setting is 1.63".

Since I don't have access to the PAG pages of insturctions I'm guessing they have a table and this length is read off those pages. I think I'm correct but would need someone to verify it.

So I think this brings this thread to a conclusion.

Questions and comments are welcome.

Ed

(I will not provide any additional design elements of the PAG.)

[reible]

Thanks, that might be helpful to someone who is missing a manual and was hoping to use the shopsmith one.

My manual is slightly different then the posted one. Newer/older or just different I don't know. Another case of lost revision information.

Ed

Continuing. For some reason there are two fig 7?

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FWIW, I just 'discovered' the pdf file when saved and opened with adobe reader has legible figures.

Oh well it was a learning experience recovering the faint lines in the figures.

[reible]

Today I worked on a couple of ringmaster projects, no not ones that the tool is intended to do but tools to make for the ringmaster.

First up was the sharpening block. I found an old piece of a former project that had enough good wood to make one to almost size. It is short of the 5-1/2" specified but I don't see that as a problem. I made the angle 10 degrees, should it be 8 degrees, who knows, I think this will work.

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I need to do a little sanding and break some of the sharp edges, maybe a bit of an oil finish??? I did give it a go and it seems to work just fine even as it is.

Next up was the knife holder. A couple of posts back I showed the parts and now I've build wood holder for those parts. It too needs some sanding and maybe an oil finish. I plan to use epoxy to stick it all together at some point in the future.

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I left the metal protruding by the smallest of amount to make sure the magnetic field would hold things in place. I also need to add some lines so the knife locations can be done before hand.

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Ed

[reible]

Had some shop time to finish these two projects.

The knife setting jig proved to be a bit touchy when I tried to use super glue to hold the magnets in place. Not only was it hard to place things it turned out the glue let go from the bars and the magnets.... So I went back and used some J-B weld to stick things together and into the block of wood. This seems to be working fine.

Another change I made was to use a small file and make notches in the metal bars to note where the cutters should be located. They might be hard to see in the pictures but in real life I can see them fine.

So lets do some pictures.

This one has the notches shown but it is a poor picture. The small file is behind, just a small triangle shape.

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Next is the placement of the blades on the tool. Magnets hold them well and the notches make them a snap to set.

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You might have to envision a bit here but the blades are in the slots hand my hand holds them in position while the camera hand would be tightening them in place.

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This is what it looks like when you are done and remove the setting tool.

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More in the next post.

Ed