Shopsmith Bolts??

reible · Post by **reible** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:09 am

I have a set of these that must have come with one of the two 10ER's I've purchased. They look cool so I've kept them hoping to find another use for them at some point.

Anyone found another use?

Ed

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 3:57 am

JPG40504 wrote:Rip fences do not make square cuts(that is the task of the miter gauge).

Yes this 'arrangement' can be adequate for ripping, but it is not very 'handy'. Width adjustment has to occur by positioning the blade. The headstock or quill are moved to set width since the fence is 'fixed' to the 'tailstock'.

This 'scheme' was replaced with the ER.

This sort of makes me glad that mine is an ER...
Not too big of a factor though since other than setting it up and making a few test cuts I have never used it. Then again, I have mostly just been working on the shop and very little on projects. It just sits there along the east wall looking pretty.

Much of the whole concept of how I'm setting up my shop with a batch of Shopsmiths is based on being able to leave several common set-ups almost always sat up. I'm seeing the 10-ER with a larger 1 HP dustproof (air over motor) motor I have on it semi-permanently sat up to cut .75" dadoes using a wide sled.

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dgale · Post by **dgale** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 2:03 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Rip fences do not make square cuts(that is the task of the miter gauge).

Yes this 'arrangement' can be adequate for ripping, but it is not very 'handy'. Width adjustment has to occur by positioning the blade. The headstock or quill are moved to set width since the fence is 'fixed' to the 'tailstock'.

This 'scheme' was replaced with the ER.

Okay, wrong choice of words on my part - what I meant was squareness between the blade and the rip fence...an important adjustment for any table saw but seems like perhaps less reliable on this setup (?). Maybe not if there is the abily to make it square and then it has no play or give over time.

As far as making the adjustment, I guess the problem is that the fence is fixed to the extension table, whereas with the 10ER (and the 500 for that matter), the table is narrow but there is at least a few inches of adjustment room on the table, so you could get it in the ballpark with the headtock and then fine adjust with the fence. Anyway, interesting - I've never used any of my 10Es as a saw, so never thought any of this through. Interesting to see the evolution of the machines over a relatively short period of time...probably didn't take long for feedback to come in on the shortcomings and they address them through upgrades such as the metal extension table, the clamp on the outfeed end of the fence etc. I wonder if the speed changer or table lifter were upgrades in the same sense (ie developed in response to feedback from users on shortcomings).

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 2:45 pm

dgale wrote:Okay, wrong choice of words on my part - what I meant was squareness between the blade and the rip fence...an important adjustment for any table saw but seems like perhaps less reliable on this setup (?). Maybe not if there is the abily to make it square and then it has no play or give over time.

As far as making the adjustment, I guess the problem is that the fence is fixed to the extension table, whereas with the 10ER (and the 500 for that matter), the table is narrow but there is at least a few inches of adjustment room on the table, so you could get it in the ballpark with the headtock and then fine adjust with the fence. Anyway, interesting - I've never used any of my 10Es as a saw, so never thought any of this through. Interesting to see the evolution of the machines over a relatively short period of time...probably didn't take long for feedback to come in on the shortcomings and they address them through upgrades such as the metal extension table, the clamp on the outfeed end of the fence etc. I wonder if the speed changer or table lifter were upgrades in the same sense (ie developed in response to feedback from users on shortcomings).

Hooookey! The word is 'parallel'.

I believe there is enough 'slop' in the mounting bracket and the screws securing the 'table' to it that it could be adjusted to parallel. There are 4 screws that contribute to that slop.

Also keep in mind it has an 8" saw blade, so kick-back potential is, IMHO, reduced.

The saw guard has a splitter as well.