Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
Thank you sir for another great idea. Now all I need is the aluminum angle iron and some time to play. I recently built a 6' long dolly to move my Shopsmith tools and work bench's with. It was a challange doing those long cross cuts. The extra T track will answer that very well. When I stocked up on extra T tracks and other assorted shopsmith parts my loving wife gave me one of those sideways looks. When I finish building your great idea she will begin to see a tiny bit of madness in my spending. Thanks again. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
I can't make out how you attached the T Track to the floating tables.
And is this the 23-3/4 T-Track that SS is now selling?
Also what is the longer miter bar? SS is showing a steel miter bar #555895 and two Miter Gauge bars 516525 for the 500 (which appears longer in the picture) and 516619 for the 510/520.
Thanks, Hawk
Dayton OH and loving it! (Except they closed the store. )
I had to use two mitre slots on my router table, what is the number of a longer mitre slot?
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
I probably need to include some photos but for now I'll answer your question as best I can.
What you have seen so far was held together with small "C-clamps".
Originally, I intended to drill holes for four or five bolts with thumb nuts. When I got ready to do that, I became aware that the edges of my tables (all of them) are not straight. When I put a straight edge against them it became apparent that the castings are very wavey.
I don't want to put localized stress on those castings for free of cracking them. I have one that is cracked already (not caused by this).
When I attached the c-clamps I was careful not to locate a clamp where there was space between the aluminum rail and the casting. I did insert some washers to act as spacers where I felt I had no choice.
I plan to reassemble using two sided tape. I don't know just how much force will be required to hold this rail assembly in place. The tape just may do it. Vertical movement is the the only concern. Laterally, I slide a floating table up against the assembly so there will no movement in that plane.
I guess they call this design correction. Another word for kludge.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I probably need to include some photos but for now I'll answer your question as best I can.
What you have seen so far was held together with small "C-clamps".
Originally, I intended to drill holes for four or five bolts with thumb nuts. When I got ready to do that, I became aware that the edges of my tables (all of them) are not straight. When I put a straight edge against them it became apparent that the castings are very wavey.
I don't want to put localized stress on those castings for free of cracking them. I have one that is cracked already (not caused by this).
When I attached the c-clamps I was careful not to locate a clamp where there was space between the aluminum rail and the casting. I did insert some washers to act as spacers where I felt I had no choice.
I plan to reassemble using two sided tape. I don't know just how much force will be required to hold this rail assembly in place. The tape just may do it. Vertical movement is the the only concern. Laterally, I slide a floating table up against the assembly so there will no movement in that plane.
I guess they call this design correction. Another word for kludge.
Kludge is good!
Clamps is good!:D
Whatever it takes to get the job done!
Thanks, Hawk
Dayton OH and loving it! (Except they closed the store. )
Jim
)